MJ_Milam

have you talked to anyone from standard gears? they list a part number for a carrier that works with the locker

well that lift for the WJ is adustable in the front so adding about 3 degrees of positive caster will eliminate that. and why would you put a transfer case drop kit in? it may decrease your rear driveshaft angle but increases the front. again, I'm not trying to start a thread to bash rusty's, I'm running the rusty's cross over steering and adjustable track bar and have zero complaints. Thhe thread is about the RX300 shocks and asking if anyone has run them just to ask their opinion and if they worked well for them or not. I understand we all have our preference on parts but I'm just looking for any actual thoughts on their shocks from personal experience, not a lift for a grand cherokee

where abouts in LA? I'm about an hour north of you in Palmdale

I know this all too well. This kicked my @$$ the first time i experienced it. knowing this is definately worth it's weight in gold! :doh:

i also read that Tenneco manufactures all the parts for rusty's shocks and they're assembled in-house at Rusty's. I was doing some research last night on them. I think I'm just going to pick them up because $150 for a rebuildable shock is pretty reasonable. I just ask because I haven't talked to anyone who has run them and was curious. I think I'll just do a review after I install and run them. I really don't have any doubts that they'll be as poor as people say. I guess I'm more curious as to why people bash their products as much as I've read on other forums.

so I'm looking to upgrade my front shocks and have been leaning towards the RX300's from rusty's. I've been trying to find an honest opinion about these shocks but it seems like where ever I look (i.e jeep forum) it just a thread full of people chiming in to bash Rustys products. I tend to ignore them because I've purchased items from them before and customer service was always great. answered any fitment questions etc. that I've had. I know they are rebuildable which is a plus. I just wanna know if anyone here is actually running them on their comanche and how they feel about them. thanks

some more recent pics

sorry i don't know how or why they were deleted

you have to use ford 24lbs injectors and adjustable fuel pressure regulator. there's a lot other things you have to do but that covers the fuel management issues

a dana 30 axle will bolt up with no modifications. just remove the dead axle and bolt up the d30. and as for your trans, you can put a 4wd short shaft in a 2wd trans but it would cost more than finding a used 4wd trans

I'm running the Rough Country long arm kit with 8.5" coils from rustys and it works great. the kit is extremely affordable and comes with a lot more than most other long arm kits i've checked out i.e. heavy duty crossmember and t-case skid plate. the rebuildable flex joints are nice and rebuild kits for them run about 20 bucks. i have great flex with the kit and on road stability is great also. i'm not running a steering stabilizer and don't get death wobble.

i have this done on my 231 and it is a cheap conversion. a few things i ran into and not sure i you have, is the return spring on the rear of the mode fork that presses against the back of the case. because the 241 mode fork is bigger, the spring would compress and bind up and not let me shift into N or 4L. i had to use a spring with a larger I.D. so it slid over the casted part of the fork so when the spring compressed, it did so over the fork end

i always thought doing a 4 door comanche would be cool. cut the back of the cab from a comaanche and weld it to the back of an xj the do a back half to fit a comanche bed. not sure about dimensions but always something i thought about

I'll definately have to look into it. it's a lot nicer than carpet. I'd like to do my bed also but gotta wait til i do the bed bob

the bedliner floor board is awesome. been wanting to do that to mine for quite a while but like most, i'm lacking the funds. looks like a good start to a project.

yeah painting isn't one of my best skills haha

the front bumper I made. just did it with some 2x4 square tubing and flat stock I had laying around. I'm a wheeler on a budget lol

so i'm new to the comanche club and thought I'd share my rig. i bought it in 09 from my grandpa who bought new in 89. it was originally 2wd. i first started out with a 4.5" RC lift. then 31 inch tires. Then bought a 88 xj with no motor for parts. took the AW-4, 242, and HP D30 and put it in the comanche. i didn't use the 242 and scrapped it for a 231. then i did a RC long arm kit and came across some 6" springs. after that got 33" KM1's and put 4.88's front and rear with an auburn LSD in the rear. then did custom bupers, SOA rear and 8.5" coils up front. Plans for the future, narrowed 44 up front and 9" out back. bob the bed, exo cage, 4.6 stroker and whatever else i feel will put a huge dent in my wallet. thanks for looking

i like the 231. i did the 241 upgrade and have had zero problems. it's a cheap upgrade and easy to do and worth the extra strength. hopefully that's worth a few cents

i did this to my jeep. it was 2wd originally. had to swap trannys. the 2wd output shaft is too long and you can't cut it (i already measured). just remember that pre-91 AW-4 have a 21 spline output and 91 and newer have a 23 spline. i found an 88 xj on craigslist with no motor for 200 bucks. took the front anxle, trans and t case and it was a direct swap. when looking for a D30 make sure it's a the one-piece long axle. it's a lot stronger and is a high pinion. so if you can find a wrecked 4wd xj or mj, it makes it a lot easier

here is some info from alldata you can try and see if it helps Connect a 0-689 kPa (0-100 psi) pressure gauge to the the test port (schrader valve) on the fuel rail. START the engine and allow it to idle, then note the fuel pressure. If the pressure is within specification, proceed to step 3. If the pressure is above or below specification, proceed to FUEL SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS for further testing. STOP the engine, noting the gauge reading. Allow the engine to sit, with key OFF for 30 minutes, then recheck the fuel pressure gauge. A pressure drop of 0-138 kPa (20 psi) from the specified operating pressure is normal, and no further fuel pump testing is necessary. If the fuel pressure drop is greater than that specified, proceed to step 4. START the engine and allow it to idle. Simultaneously pinch the fuel return hose, and STOP the engine. Note the fuel pressure reading. Allow the engine to sit for 30 minutes, with the fuel return line pinched, and recheck the pressure reading. If the pressure has dropped 0-138 kPa (20 psi) or less, replace the fuel pressure regulator. If the pressure drop still exceeds the specified amount, the fuel pump check valve is leaking, and the pump will need to be replaced. engine at curb idle vacuum hose connected: 31 psi vacuum hose disconnected: 39 psi