MJ_Milam

Yes he is awesome. He hooked me up with a thick cut 4:10 R&P for $25. They used them for testing in another vehicle and removed. Highly recommend them

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe 3.92 is the carrier change for d44 and d30's

Like omega said. The plastic where the rod drops into gets worn out and won't let the ignition switch slide all the way down and make a good contact. They're like $10 on rockauto

In the summer time, I use Delo 15-40 because the diesel oils are high detergent to help clean the insides.

Cool I'll keep my eyes out for an 84-86 jeep. Gives me a reason to hit the junkyard and if not I'll just grab that craigslist one

I'm not sure if this topic has been addressed. I tried finding previous threads but couldn't find anything. I picked up another Comanche for $500. Gonna make it my DD. It has a 2.5 and have done the full gauge cluster swap on my 89 and wanna know if it's as straight forward as my 89. I know I have to change sending units. Wondering if I can just find one out of a pre-91 and throw it in or try and find an 86?

It's pretty simple. The top picture is correct. The existing fuel inlet line is your feed, the line facing down is your return and the line going right goes to your fuel rail and it looks like there's a nipple for the vacuum supply. That regulator doesn't have 2 inlets. Ones a supply and the other is a return. And if you're using this, you won't be using your stock FPR

I removed my a/c system, pump and all, and have no issues except I sweat my balls off in the summer. I found an idler pulley mount from an xj in the junkyard that goes where your compressor goes.

A customer at my shop has an 86 with a 2.8 and it had the fire wall indent. I checked to see because I heard there was a difference so I remembered to check but it looks the same as my 89.

Have you tried backprobing the MAP signal at the ecm? Maybe you have a wiring issue or possibly loose terminal. Also check the grounding splice for the sensor for corrosion.

A hp D44 and 9" are more than suitable, in my opinion, than one tons due to the issue of the one tons have a much larger dif which hinders ground clearance and the added weight is unnecessary.

I got 8.5" lift on my Comanche. I used rough country long arm kit, 8.5" coils from rustys. Rear I did SOA with 1.5" lift shackles. I'm running D30 front. East coast gear supply has axle tube sleeves you weld in for about $90. The only down side is that the larger tires wear out the unit bearings quickly. Definitely recommend an SYE kit for your tcase as well

I would suspect possible MAP sensor. Mine would occasionally start up and idle at 2000 rpm. I'd pop the hood and tap it with a screw driver a few times and it would smooth out.

I've had the best luck using liquid laundry detergent to install the upper half of the RMS. slides in perfectly

Remove the crank sensor, put engine on TDC and check to see if the sight window for the sensor is there or not.

Sounds like he gave you a switch instead of a sending unit. I would suggest ordering from rock auto.

I just seen a set of used 746's for $30 shipped on eBay.

Well found out what was wrong. Found a good diagram from Mitchell on demand at work. The wire I originally thought was the power for the gauges was actually signal from the alternator. So brought my power probe home from work and pulled the cluster. I have a break in the wire from the the fuse box to the cluster bulk head. So I'll just run a new wire with a fuse to the bulk head

Quick question or ideas. Recently my temp gauge started acting up, thought it was over heating. Changed the sending unit, worked for about a week then lost all gauges. Tachometer, oil pressure, battery, temp, and fuel. Pulled the cluster, one of the pins has power and fuse is good. Any ideas or possibly someone with a wiring diagram would be appreciated.

Sorry for the late reply, been busy being a dad, buying a house and what not. The shocks still hold up well. No leaks at all, still as good as the day I bought them. Definitely would recommend them for anyone on a budget. I haven't had any problem. I do wanna call rusty's and find out how much a rebuild kit is. I couldn't find a listing on their website

The interlock still works but the back up lights, no. They give you switches included with the shifter, just haven't hooked it up yet.

thanks. It was fun making it work

and here's the shifter installed (sorry i got excited and forgot pics of mounting the shifter before fitting the cover. I'll pop is back off and take some pics when i get a chance). It shifts smooth, the gear selection indicator lines up perfect on the housing. If i got motivated enough it would be cool to have a P-R-N-O-3-2/1 gear selector tag made. so for now i have the turbo 350 tag in place