MJ_Milam

next I got the shifter cable mounted and routed. i ran it up and over the bell housing and drilled an acess hole in the trans tunnel to feel the cable through to the shifter

next was modifying the stock cable bracket to work. it was actually fairly simple. i just used one of the brackets included and cut it and welded to the stock bracket. cut the excess off and welded it together

so first was making the stock trans gear selector work. i knocked the nipple out and opened the hole up to accept the B&M linkage had to grind the lever a little so i could fit the pin all the way through and clear the cotter pin.

i will keep you updated. For $45 it's worth a shot. worst case, i take it out and go back to a column shifter

So today at the flea market I found a brand new B&M floor $#!&er. Everything in the box unopened and all hardware and shift cable. Picked it up for $45 and when I got home pulled it out of the box and realized what I came up on. It's a quicksilver ratchet shifter, which usually go from $200-$250 online. It's probably overkill for my Comanche but should be cool. Hopefully I'll get a chance to put it in this week and post some pictures. The only modification I can see is a bracket for the cable and the mounting tab on the shifter for the trans. Hopefuly it works out

yeah I figured out that you don't need the emission timer. crisis averted. passed smog and egr circuit worked fine without it. alldata was full of $#!&.

from what I've read on alldata it lists the circuit timer as one of the input signals so it will purge the egr. I'll mess with it tomorrow when i get a chance and make sure it's working. if not, Arizona registration, here I come lol

so I got few questions about the emmisions timer. so i decided i was gonna do interior work on the comanche. i pulled the emissions timer out and put in a safe place. you know, those safe places you forget about. can't find one online and dealer laughed at me when i asked them. i know my local junkyard has plenty of renix era jeeps that i can pull one from. my question is if I pull one from another jeep will it work in mine? from what i have read i need it to run my EGR purge solinoid. Maybe i can jump the connector? any help is appreciated

I would go with a 4L80 over the 700R4/4L60. not a fan of the 700. Stand-alone harnesses are easy to come by these days. And I wouldn't touch a semi-floating 14-bolt. Go full floting corprate 14-bolt. cheap and easy to find. An 8-lug 44 should be plenty strong for what you're building. If you're wanting an on-the-fly 2 to 4wd you'd probably better off with an NP 208 or NP 241

for $24 it's worth a shot. i'm gonna give it a go myself. thanks for the link

as far as i know, the clusters in the MJ's are the same as in the XJ's. i swapped my idiot light cluster out for a full gauge cluster which i pulled from an XJ in a junk yard but u can always put old parts on the internet and make a few bucks to put towards your build

stupid fixes are the best fixes :thumbsup:

definately go with the D44. from experience, I hammer mine every wheeling trip and yet to destroy it. or go all out and narrow a ford 9" :yes:

did you hook the ground strap from the cylinder head to the firewall? just thinking of simple things first

sorry i was thinking theyre like a chevy where you zero lash them amd do a full turn

need more info. what did u do first? i would start with head gasket. start with basics. check compression. possibly incorrect adjustment valve adjustment. is it a 4 or 6 cylinder?

i always loved your truck from the pics on your instagram. as for the death wobble, best thing you can do is get adjustable upper control arms and take your truck to an alignment shop and have them put 3 degress of POSITIVE caster in it. I did it to mine and have no death wobble and i'm running 33x12.50's and no stabilizer. usually the 4.5" lifts don't come with them and changes the caster even though they say it doesn't.

from my experience with them, I've never had a complaint and am very happy with their shocks. I figured for $300 for a pair it was worth a shot compared to many other shocks.

i'm extremely happy with them. ride nice on the road and off. no problems with them so far. the valving seems right. not too stiff or soft. no leaks from the seals or anything like that. for $150, I'm happy with them and would recommend them. i know peoples negative feelings towards rusty products but i haven't had any problems with their parts

came out bad @$$. always wondered what a roof rack would look like and now i know. awesome job :cheers:

:cheers: thanks for that bit of info. Had no idea thsat the passport/rodeo even ran Dana 44. Would've never thought to look for upgrades from any of those vehicles

someone is prepared for the gopher apocalypse

splitting a transfer case is fairly easy. here's a pic of a stretched chain. you can obviously see the chain sags below the bottom of the case half so best bet is look for wear marks in the case halfs.

are you sure you're not having tranny problems? sounds like worn sycronizers. what transfer case is it? 231 or 242?

All that matters is you fixed it. Congrats :cheers: