streetjeep2.5

A recent You Tube song done by a father/daughter team came about when the daughters 8 year old nephew, when seeing all the kids lined up at the mall to see santa and say "I want, I want", asked, "where's the line for Jesus?" What I hate about this time of year is how mankind has replaced Jesus with Santa, and the time of year that's about the gift God gave us in Christ is turned into a commercialized and often greedy feeding frenzy as seen with Black Friday as people will push and shove, belittle and berate, grab and take. So, hate what man had done to this time of year by remembering what it's really about. At the church I serve we double our services and involve the kids in things that focus on what this time of year is really all about. We take our midweek school students to a nursing home and then a Veterans home where the put on a birth of Jesus skit with singing some familiar Christmas hymns, the residents joining in, and our Sunday School puts on a Christmas Eve program for the congregation where the SS students are immersed in reading from Holy Scripture what it's really all about. Like a saying from a short time ago said; He's the Reason for the Season.

Thanks but I have those in my Chilton. Missing in the schematic is that block where all the lines enter and exit. If I end up eliminating the block I will follow it, but I would like to keep the block if possible.

GREAT! Thanks!

I really need someone to help me get my manche running! :eek: 87 2.5 4x2. Need someone to take a few pictures of the vacuum block near the throttle body and where the lines off of it go. Mine had a couple of lines broken off, :dunce: and I can't find the pieces to figure it out. :dunno: It is keeping me from getting it running. :fs1: Please, have mercy on this situation, Please, please, purtty please? :D

Yea, how fantastic! Sent it to my kids! And, sent it to my whole congregation!

Hey, stay on The Club and chat with us! Maybe we will peek your desire again! :cheers: In respect to my 87 4x2, I can't imagine any vehicle with over 300,000 miles that, although needing repairs, still functions as well as my good old "yeep". My main problem has been getting mainly external parts for a 2.5, and if the tranny goes, parts for it. Parts specific to an MJ are a problem, but that is to be expected given they existed for only a few years. But, with original tranny, original rear differential, and everything else, it has served well! But, like anything, you get lemons, maybe. Of course, I am 62. When I am 76, will I want to be wrenching like I still do? Dunno! Might add, the problem recently with my engine I think was the fault of the Clifford Header I installed. Number 3 cyl tube was very close to the block and the head gasket at that point was black, and the head bolt at that point had heat hardened crud on it even down into the block an inch or so. I think the heat somehow cooked the head gasket, and it caused #3 cyl to break a ring and have a damaged point at the top of the cyl, interestingly on the side near that head bolt and the blackened gasket. Prior to that, my 2.5 rolled down the road like a champ! Plus, we had a 94 Cherokee we bought brand new and was virtually trouble free (4 x 2 also) for its whole 247,000 miles with us! Anyway, I have never been happier with a vehicle than those years of jeeps.

Wife and I were in Columbia today and was going to stop at Yancey's but ran out of time! Will call tomorrow. Yea, the EGR tube worked great! Motor is on, but with needing a rocker cover and vacuum block, doesn't run yet. Again, thanks for the parts! Sorry had to meet you in the rain though, and we couldn't chat a bit!

87 2.5 4x2 w/o ac or ps. The Vacuum block on the intake manifold with all the tubes running out of it. Broke a couple. If anyone had a good one that would be great! I think I can fix if not, but would love to have a few pictures to show me how everything went since by breaking some of the tubes I don't know exactly where they go to do a fix with vacuum hoses.

Broke mine putting the engine in. :mad: Found aftermarket through JC Whitney for 45.00. Any better deals??? I know the danger of a used one is fatigue cracks at the bolt holes.

Yea, welcome to the club! Had an 86 Cavalier with a 2.8, and the think leaked oil like no tomorrow, all coming from the intake manifold gasket. The end pieces love to leak! I was told to replace them, and take a small punch and create a few small divits on the engine block to hold the seal in place. Does it need a good tune up, like cap, rotor, wires, plugs? Check compression and see how its doing there. That will tell you a lot. Yea, good looking rig!

Kewl! I shall if the becomes the case!

Yea, probably what I shall do. IF it is still around after Christmas I know of a 91 wrecked MJ with a 4.0. I could swap everything in, including front springs, AC, and PS. I have no AC or PS right now. And, no, I'm not gonna tell you where it is, so there!!!! :brows:

On average less than 1000 miles a year, about 70 a month, about 20 a week. If it sat for a long time without running, wonder if drive train might have issues because of this. Tough on engine and tranny innards when the oil or fluid just sits. :???:

Was thinking carb simply because of getting rid of all the sensors and motors and everything run off of the computer because it appears leaning out due to a vacuum problem was what hurt my 2.5, and there are a lot of sensors in the vacuum system, and a couple I can not find new to replace just in case. But, was researching this morning what it would cost to put a carb on it, and intake and carb alone would be almost a grand. So, that's out! Guess I will swap in a 4.0 and build it some: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html or http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/bryce/stroker/stroker.cfm On Dino's site, I found: '87...... XJ: 173hp at 4500rpm, 220lbft @ 2500rpm, redline 5000rpm '88-'90 XJ: 177hp at 4500rpm, 224lbft at 2400rpm, redline 5000rpm '91-'95 XJ: 190hp at 4750rpm, 225lbft at 3950rpm, redline 5250rpm '96-'99 XJ: 190hp at 4600rpm, 225lbft at 3000rpm, redline 5300rpm '00-'01 XJ: 193hp at 4600rpm, 231lbft at 3000rpm, redline 5300rpm In 1996 engines received noise, vibration, and harshness fixes. The blocks were stiffened with extra ribbing, a main bearing brace was added, and lighter cast aluminium pistons were introduced to reduce cold start piston slap. Engines also received revised camshaft timing for more low rev torque. Sounds like 96 and later XJ may be the way to go????

Getting my 2.5 running again, but want to start working on a 4.0 to put in its place, but want to get rid of all the computerization, so will probably at least put a better cam in it and will go with an after market carbureated system and header. May think of a mild stroker. Which year 4.0 for head flow, etc, would be best?

With the fact that my engine leaned out and it got "hurt", and it may have been due to a vacuum problem, I am replacing as many vacuum sensors and all the flexible lines I can prior to putting the engine back in and firing it up. There is one in the cover on top of the throttle body. My Chilton calls it in the Vacuum Diagram a TAC sensor, but that is the only reference I find. It has two lines to it which I take to mean vacuum flows through it, and it then sticks through the cover into the air as it comes into the throttle body from the air cleaner. Throttle Air Control????? They don't discuss it anywhere. Anyone know its function and if it might be available anywhere? Local dealer can't find it in the books, and local aftermarket fails also.

Thanks, pug! Hey, was this the same one you had the tube for I might have needed??????

you you are are really really important important I I guess guess! !

The electric motor turns the gears to increase or decrease idle speed depending on what the computer understands as operating temperature. It does not tweak air but does operate the throttle itself to raise and lower idle. Again, kinda like the old spring loaded or electric chokes on a carb that worked according to the temperature of the engine. Of course, some of you young wippersnappers may be saying, "carb?" or "spring loaded fast idle control?" Yep! Great technology that replaced the choke/fast idle cable you operated from the dash board to keep your engine from dying until it warmed up! Back then there was no "start", "put in gear", go". It was "start", "feather the throttle for a minute or two while you sat in a cold car and let the engine warm up enough to not stall and die", and then "went back inside to warm up while the engine warmed up," and then you "carefully accelerated so it would not sputter and die in really cold weather" because if it died you would probably flood the engine trying to start it again and then you held the gas pedal to the floor and cranked it over until it went "sputter, sputtersputter, hack, cough, cough, kinda run, run, varoom", and then go again! Oh, yea, feather it again! BTW, "feather" means be "REALLY LIGHTLY push up and down" on the gas pedal. Ah, the good old days!

Yes they have! It's a conspiracy! They put AMC and Chevy engines in our jeeps, and then let Chrysler by them! It's a conspiracy, I tell ya! Its a conspiracy! To arms! Gooooooooooooooooo....................

Tell 'em you want it back!!!! Anywho, a bummer. Might consider, strip ANYTHING external on a Renix 2.5 and store. Items for them are REALLY getting rare.

What! :eek: Who! :drool: No! Don't Do that! :fs1: There coming to take us away, ho, ho, he, he, ha ha, to the funny farm where life is easy ...... :ack: Did you hear that! :???: They're in my head! :mad: AGGGGGGGG :dunce: Whatca mean, no idiots! :nuts:

Need one that is complete. Mine is missing some external parts and I have it cobbled together. Looks like this (minus the white and orange "fix"! :nuts: Image Not Found

Yea, my problem was I got a rebuild kit a few years ago, and it was not exactly right. So I cleaned and reassembled and it hasn't worked right since. I live so far away from any decent yards, so I am gonna put a request out in "classified".

This isn't an IAC if by it you mean Idle Air Control. Its called ISA Motor, or Idle Speed Adjustment. It works electrically from the computer the way the fast idle cam did on carbs.