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So the answer is, $800. Now, what would your selling price be?

Pretty sure that's hornbrod's truck, which would make that Alabama. Matches the description in the signature. Either way, it's a beauty!

Not enough info to make an educated bid and the picture tells us little. Did $800 buy it?

What's pictured is a good value. A little off topic, but I have you saved as a favorite seller on ebay because you have the "good stuff". I looked long and hard at the Limited XJ door panel set you had listed, but funds are low.

No, I get it. I was just crackin' wise. I don't think 2K is out of line for a truly "rust free" roller. To find a rust free driver in New England is a challenge, and near impossible to find one under $3000.

Shouldn't that last reply be in the wanted section? Oh yeah, it is! Times two.

You could probably repair the tilt release linkage. There's not much to disassembling bucket seats. Four bolts and the seat pan comes off, then it's just a few screws, some wire stays and Velcro. I'm in the process of going from bench to buckets and recently stripped the maroon upholstery to go gray. Good bit of info about the year of the seat design change. For the illustrated write-up for mounting XJ buckets to MJ brackets follow this >>> http://comancheclub.com/topic/7656-making-xj-buckets-work-in-a-mj/

My Comanche is uncommon. My rust free Comanche is "Rare". It's worth more to me than it is to you, but I'm going to ask A LOT when I sell it (my MJ is not for sale, this is rhetorical). Not an exact quote, but one of our own recently wrote, "If I'm buying, not more than $500, if I'm selling, not less than $3000". (Love it!) There are 4 MJ's on ebay as I type. They range from an honest 88 Pioneer listed by a dealer for a ridiculous $5995, to a no reserve auction for a tired plow truck. Current bid, $525. The other two are high mileage repaints that are "rare". The reality is, there's an @$$ for every seat. This thread was inspired by the question ... "What's it worth?"

They ask "all the money" on ebay, but stuff can be had. The whole pile below is $99 with free shipping. Maybe you could sell off what you don't need/want and get some money back. http://www.ebay.com/itm/190959470130?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_282wt_650

It's back. Didn't even rethink the price ... $5995 There are 21 people watching the auction ... so chime in you lurkers! :yes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Comanche-Pioneer-1988-jeep-comanche-pickup-4-wd-pioneer-/390710337395?forcerrptr=true&hash=item5af8269f73&item=390710337395&pt=US_Cars_Trucks#ht_314wt_925

The thing is awesome! I'm guessing he must have built or finished it in the late 90's ... you can tell it's a pre 97 XJ 2dr, but the tailights are 97+ XJ.

Oh, those grounds. :) Excellent thread with lots of good info. Thank you!

Not to mention the Cherokee Laredo in the third pic. Think it was just a brain cramp?

I put a new battery in the truck less than a year ago. The cables are in good shape and the battery connections are clean. As for the grounds ... dunno which you are referring to?

I didn't notice if the headlights dimmed, but a kick in the pants (a little gas) and everything returns to normal. The dash lights do not dim. I should add, I had my directional on and the interval didn't change.

Get him to do a write up!

Is that just the foam, or the seat pan also?

After a little searching this seems to be the mostly likely thread ... I don't know if this is electrical, vacuum, or just an old, tired wiper motor. I was sitting at a traffic light tonight ... truck in drive, foot on the brake, normal RPM (I don't have a tach, so normal is subjective), lights on, wipers on delay and each time the wipers cycled the RPMs would drop and the wipers did a slow sweep. Sometimes it seems the truck might stall, but it hasn't. Only happens in this situation. The wipers work fine in all settings while traveling.

Will you take chickens?

Could be, but 1/2" turned the bolt. The problem isn't the size, it's fitting the tool between the frame and the top of the bracket. The bolt goes through from the top into a pseudo nut thats keyed to fit into the frame of the bracket. If I could get the bolt out far enough I could spin the nut, but getting more than a fraction of a turn takes more effort than it should.

Alright, so now I have MJ seats with brackets that have some rust, and pristine brackets I puchased separately. Anyone know if it's a special tool to back the bolts out to separate the bracket from the seat? A standard 1/2 inch open end barely fits.

So, I've found (and bought) some seats. They're cordovan, but will be gray at some point in the near future. A friend of mine "knows a guy" that does upholstery and he hooked me up.