onlyinajeep726

And now that Fiat has market share with Chrysler, we'll probably never see another Jeep truck, ever. They've already ruined Cherokee's good name. :fs1:

:hmm: Ummm... mine is a 16 gallon tank and it has 3 straps holding it up... I'm not so sure that's a good way of identifying tank sizes. Better yet to the OP, there should be a little plate on the size of the tank, same side as the pump assembly, and center of the tank, just slightly above the pinch seam. It will either have a "16 gal" engraved or "23.5 gal".

My '88 XJ won't start in neutral either. Not sure why... I figured I'll leave it be until it prevents me from starting up at all.

Reverse light switch could be unpluged, damaged or malfunctioning.

x2. I have a feeling that my 90 MJ might be the donor to convert my 96 XJ to a stick and awd. Ohh... that would be nice. Did MJs ever have a NP242 as an option from factory?

Go to the local junkyard and pull one! Way cheaper. That's what I did, have one waiting to go in.

Judging by your signature, I assume the Jeep in question is an automatic? If so, your Neutral Safety Switch may be the culprit. Here's a link showing how to address that and fix it. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/nss-cleaning-no-reverse-lights-engine-not-starting-971621/

The back drums are adjusted through an opening in the back of the dust shield. With the rear jacked up and tires off the ground, you can use a flat head screw driver through said opening and spin the adjustment gear until the tire won't spin by hand. Then back it off the adjustment gear by 5 clicks and you should be golden. Also, you can get it close to adjustment as mention before, but then drive the Jeep in reverse at about 3-5 MPH and give it some mild brake so it can self adjust. That last part may take a handful of tries, so make sure you have plenty of room to back up. As far as front goes, the calipers should adjust automatically when brakes are applied, assuming all the air is for sure bleed from the lines. One last note, if you still have the MJ load sensing valve in the back, you'll have a nice 15 step process to bleed the brakes since you have to also bleed the bypass line... This little bugger was my motivation for modifying my MJ to have tradition (XJ style) brakes. Just my two pennies.

I feel like it would be more work trying to get the '95/'96 brake pedal assembly unbolted and put into a Renix era, but maybe that's just me. I've had success with drilling and grinding a flat spot. Also, as mentioned above, stay away from '97 - '01 XJ boosters if you have a choice. I wouldn't trust a cut and weld job on the booster rod. Not going to take that chance when I have other viable options. WJ booster gives a little bit more braking power over the mentioned XJ ones, but both are a huge improvement over our stock ones.

Bouncing around is pretty common too lol. Again, it's due to the fact that it's a simple and antiquated design. The gas sloshes around a lot in the tank while you're moving, so the gauge will serve only to give you a rough estimate of the amount of gas.

:ack: :mad: :cry:

Your picture doesn't work, but I Googled it... Didn't realize that such a concept existed, but I totally dig it. I thought it was an old, old concept. Then I saw some interior shots and quickly discovered otherwise. It's nice, in that it looks old school on the outside but has a modern inside.

On a '92, I'd say that's correct. But I'll let these other guys chime in. I have done this upgrade on my '88 XJ and '86 MJ. Both Renix with that oddly designed brake light switch.

Well, I will say this much... The sending units in our Jeeps are not very precise. After my XJ gets down to "half" a tank, I notice it finds its way to E a lot quicker than before it got to half.

Did not know all of that... Thanks for the info.

View my build thread on CherokeeForum. Give it about 2-3 minutes to load (more if you have slow internet). I have tons and tons of pictures. I explained how I did it. But to answer your question, I used a '91+ XJ overflow tank and moved the relay center over and relocated the ignition coil. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/my-88-w-i-p-work-progress-127477/#post1601315 Also, note that in the pictures, I had a standard open style radiator, however, that is since been changed out due to a leak. I got the Moroso inline filler neck later on since I got a free closed style 2-row CSF to replace the leaking open one.

That, sir, is a Jeep Nukizer Kaiser. They are quite aesthetically pleasing.

What automatic did they use in '88 for the 2.5L?

Yep, you sound like me with your last sentence... If my AW4 quits, an AX15 is going in its place.

Yep, like neohic said, this is a photoshop. It was never a concept. However, this was.... :drool: And this... B)

:agree: That's about the only way. Try to get a feel for where your clutch starts engaging on a level surface and practice smooth take offs before getting adventurous on hills, unless of course, you have no choice. I was in the same boat as you not too long ago when I got my 4-speed MJ back in January.

This is the one I got. Just splice the upper radiator hose and put this in. Then grab the heater hoses off of a '91+ XJ/MJ and boom... open cooling. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COS5OW/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also, the picture Amazon provides for the above item is not what it looks like in reality. Each end is the same size and it's the correct size for our upper radiator hose.

Good lucking finding a tail gate and rear bumper... I saw this one last night. Could be worth fixing up, but I already have an MJ and XJ that eat my money haha.

Did you mean Open system? '88s are already closed systems. The inline filler neck you linked would make it an open system. But to the OP, yes, convert the ol' girl to open cooling if you're going through and replacing hoses. You'll be glad you did.

Just by generic heater hose from the parts store and cut it to length. I don't think there is a specific part number for those hoses, and if there is, it's probably no longer carried.