onlyinajeep726

I think that's what you meant lol.

I didn't undo the torx bolts/remove the hinges from the door when I did the mod. I did all my cuts with the door still on. Maybe that's why I don't have seal issues.

Remove the hexagonal brass adapter fitting from the side of the block and make sure it's not gummed up with crude. That's usually the problem.

I know some of you may have had sealing issues after the doorless mod, however, I have not had any issues on my '88 XJ since doing the mod nearly 1.5 years ago. On a separate note, I converted my front power windows to manual, moved the speakers to an overhead bar and used a two-prong quick disconnect for my electric locks (I have keyless entry and wanted to retain that feature when the doors are on). I even moved the window/lock control switches to the lower dash so that I can still use my rear power windows and locks.

Refine your search to include XJ's and you'll find a plethora of write ups... http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/removable-xj-doors-done-easy-cheap-90496/

It mates the AMC/Jeep 2.5L to an AX15 5-speed, the AX15 being an upgrade to the stock AX4 or AX5.

I have one. $50 shipped?

I would still advise performing Cruiser's Renix tips because that will likely solve a handful of issues right off the bat.

Well, I'm considering selling it after I clean it up... ;)

Went to the junkyard today with my sights on getting a Durango steering box and brake master cylinder for my XJ. There were a ton of Durangos and Dakotas out there. When I'm there, I always check the Dakotas for the infamous AMC 2.5L and 5-speed. Sure enough, the last one I checked, a '98, had the engine removed but the 5-speed was still there and still intact. I jumped into the engine bay and snatched her up. Can't believe I found one after all this time of searching... With that said, I have no use for it at the moment since I did the 4.0 swap... If I could've found this last year, I would have been more tempted to stick with a 2.5 and done the AX15 upgrade.

Something doesn't seem right. According to the BF Goodrich web site, a 225/70-15 tire runs 758 revolutions per mile. That's very close to a typical 215/75-15, which runs 754 revolutions per mile. With 3.54 gears and an AX-15 transmission, at 70 MPH you should be turning 3114 RPM in 4th gear, but only 2335 in 5th gear. Did you recalibrate your tachometer when you swapped from a 4-cylinder to a 6-cylinder engine? I don't think your tach is giving you accurate readings. I think you are actually turning closer to 2000 RPM. The factory didn't choose 3.07 gears with the 5-speeds for optimum fuel efficiency in the real world, they chose those gears to get better results on the arbitrary and artificial government economy test. In real life, 3.07 gears suck and 3.54 or even 3.73 gears should almost always result in better fuel economy on stock size tires. 3.07 gears have the engine running well below the torque peak at highway speed, and that's NOT the way to obtain better economy. The tach is off and needs to be calibrated. It started out in the XJ that I used as a donor, then I calibrated it to the 4-banger, then I just guessed when I redid it for the 4.0. I need to redo it the correct way. But, like I said in my post just above yours, I think I may have figured it out but I will know for sure in time.

I think I figured out part of the problem by solving another problem. The engine has always idled higher than normal after it has been warmed up, since I swapped it in. Figured I had a vacuum leak, so I went to searching. Then it occurred to me, check the manifold bolts. Sure enough, they were loose and so, I tightened them, and my idle has went down noticeably. With that said, I've scored more miles on half a tank of gas than previously, so I think my average MPG has improved, but I won't know for sure till I run a few tanks down.

Are those 19# injectors? If not, I'd recommend Dodge Neon injectors (703's). They're 4-hole and atomize better. A good upgrade over the stock, Siemens injectors that like to leak in the middle.

Right here in NC, in Mt. Airy. Prices are fair and you can always pick it up yourself to save on shipping cost. Two of my XJ buddies have one and the bumpers are very sturdy. Check out their webpage: L & L Fabrication

Why do you need to remove the old woodruff key? The new balancer should still work with the old woodruff key...

I may have one, if I do, $55 shipped?

That's probably why you stalled. 1/4 isn't much when tilted/flexed. Fill her up full and try again. You should have different results. :thumbsup:

How much gas did you have?

He kind of looks like a jackass to me... He might be trying to pull your leg on this deal, Jim. :rotfl2:

27520

Courtesy of cruiser54: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/4-0-engine-compatibility-1405083/#post14017944

I was told by my engine builder guy that they're 4.2 connecting rods.

I need help identifying the pistons in my inline 6 stroker. They're dished pistons and the only thing engraved on them is the following numbers: E308 030 001-6 B + I've scoured the interwebz all afternoon trying to find something to no avail. I guess they're .030 oversized pistons since it's in a stroker, but aside from that, I don't know the brand or metal it's made from.

Damn, good eye!