onlyinajeep726

Woo-hoo! Someone referenced my build! :rock on: Okay, my ten seconds of fame is over. :roll: :nuts: And a fine build it is. :cheers: Thanks, Don! :D

How's the depth of the bass? Pack a good punch?

Woo-hoo! Someone referenced my build! :rock on: Okay, my ten seconds of fame is over. :roll: :nuts:

Thanks for the kind responses, especially yours Eagle. That's what I was looking for.

Read, enjoy: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48909-40-aw4-to-ax15-swap-dash-4wd-indicator-question/

I have a part number for both, but that doesn't answer my question lol. :P The regular Mopar CPS is P/N: 33004761 High Altitude Mopar CPS is P/N: 53005421

Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but besides advancing the timing by 2 degrees, is there any major difference between the two? I know to get a MOPAR one and I plan to follow Cruiser's tip to enlarge one of the bolt holes. Is there any negative affect to using the HA CPS?

You specified that both Jeeps were of the same year, but what year though? Also, it should be a direct swap. You will have to swap the interior wiring harness, which involves removing the dash. A custom (but easily made) harness will have to be wired to allow your fuel pump and tail/brake lights to work with the XJ dash harness. Some modification will be need to fit the 4.0L fuel pump in the MJ's fuel sending unit (which isn't hard to do). I did the same swap a couple years ago in my MJ, but mine was a little more involved since mine was an '86 and it has the aforementioned differences with the firewall and front crossmember (under the radiator). Read through my build thread to get you familiarized with what's in store for you. Again, don't concern yourself too much with the fabrication/metal working that I had to do as that will not be applicable for you. Build thread: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/86-comanche-dd-159524/index3/#post2533898 Also, this should be some aid also. Look through some of these: http://comancheclub.com/topic/39539-links-for-25l-to-40l-swap/

That would be a very tedious way of going about removing the drive train... Much easier to remove the front header panel and radiator, remove the starter and O2 sensor, and pull it all out through the hood. That was only an issue with early '86 model MJ's.

First off, welcome to the forum, Shane! Yes, it's possible to swap the drivetrain from the Cherokee into the Comanche. The axle ratios of the Cherokee with that engine/trans. combo is likely a 3.07 and the Comanche will likely be 3.55 (could be 4.10, but doubtful). Check the I.D. tags on the axles and see. Pictures will be helpful to us as we can help you identify different parts. You may be one of the lucky ones with a rare gem under your Comanche.

I swapped it months ago with a working good one and it made no difference. It was the distributor itself. The rotor wasn't pointing where it was suppose to no matter what I did (and I've set a many distributors in these things). I swapped one in and it was right on the first attempt. Fired up and it's running well now.

Alright, finally got back around to messing with this thing. I recently acquired a spare 4.0 from a '97 XJ and I swapped the distributor from it into my buddy's. Fires right up, with no hesitation and revs up just like it should. So it was the timing, but nothing that I was doing wrong. Hate when things make you second guess yourself lol.

In that case, I see no reason as to why you couldn't. Why not covert it to external? It's fairly easy to do.

Won't work with at AW4 auto... The TCM and associated wire harness from your 86's original auto trans is not compatible with the AW4 used in '87+ 4.0s.

Dex/Merc II or III in the T-case. It won't hurt you to run ATF in the T-case, since it's not there for hydraulic purposes. It's used to lube the chain, sprockets, etc. Redline MT-90 in the AX-15 is most desirable. I run it and it is great! Just whatever you do, do NOT put anything past GL-4 rated. Do not follow any factory service manuals that tell you to replace it with GL-5 or higher. The sulfur used in GL-5 and up will eat the bronze/brass synchronizers up.

87Warrior summed up my idea in his post. This was my exact plans: Sleeper winch bumper.

Does Max's stubby bumper mount a winch under the radiator like ORS's, or does it just stick way out like most standard winch bumpers? *Edit: Never mind... I found a picture over on NAXJA... It sticks out. I want one that is recessed and tucks the winch under the radiator, like ORS's.

As far as Simple Green goes... Straight from their website. Aluminum - Is it safe to use Simple Green on aluminum? Simple Green products have been successfully and safely used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: Aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of All-Purpose Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.

Scratch Purple Power, use Super Clean. To me, it's like the Franks Redhot sauce of degreaser/cleaners: I put that $#!% on everything.

Ya beat me. :cheers:

That plug is for cruise control equipped models.

That plug is for cruise control equipped models.

I emailed him back in June and never got a reply. I don't think they exist anymore... :(

I'm glad that it worked the way I theorized. However, when you say the plug/wire you found was solid black and not black/red, are you absolutely certain that you were looking at the correct plug? I just went back out to verify on a third Renix era Jeep and said wire was black/orange. I don't see any single, solid black wire coming from that area or the harness.

I'll PM you.