mvusse

It will be obvious if the calipers don't fit. Older calipers (that use the bracket) use pins with a (7 mm?) allen head. I believe the thread on those pins is 6mm. The newer ones that don't have the separate bracket use metric flange bolts (usually with a 10mm hex head) with a smaller (5mm?) thread. The new holes are too small for the old pins, the old holes are too large for the new pins. What year is the donor?

I'm guessing 2.72.

Early XJs and MJs used tapered bearings for 2wd and unit bearings for 4wd, This may or may not have an effect on the brake rotors and/or calipers. At some point (year?) 2wd models started using the same unit bearings and rotors as 4wd models, with a dummy shaft to hold the unit bearing together. From that point on 2wd and 4wd use the same rotors and calipers. Also at some point (when the calipers got bolted directly to the knuckle without a separate bracket?) the thickness of the rotor flange changed from 1/4" to less than 1/8".The difference is made up by the unit bearing which changed at the same time. And I believe the thinner (newer) rotors were made from different materials again based on year, presumably along with the brake pads, although the calipers and unit bearings stayed the same for that change. The only 2wd I have personal experience with is a 96XJ, which used the 4wd style unit bearings with a dummy shaft.

87 MJ 87 MJ 91 G2500 96 XJ 21.75 years After my daughter's 16th birthday (she gets the XJ), my average will go up to 23.67 years

I would have tried it. Last winter in 6" of snow my old Cherokee, Booger (now living in Maryland with it's new owner) towed a dead box truck out of a loading dock, up a gravel driveway, then up hill on a chip and seal road to get it into the warehouse to let the snow melt so we could work on it. That was low range with an AX15. I eventually made it into 4th gear but the clutch started slipping so I had to go back down to 3rd. Impressed myself as much as my coworker steering the van. Neither of us expected to even get out of the loading dock, you know, but we had to try.

The beauty of historical vehicle plates. Regular plates for a pickup truck here are $55 a year.

And unlike our Jeeps, kids do not come with a user manual. Lacking instinct, everything will be trial and error.

Never mind. Even though historical plates do not need to be renewed each year, personalized plates have a $50 per year charge. That kind of defeats the purpose of getting historical plates to begin with. So I got my new registration, plates are in the mail. Cost me $25 and change, valid until January 28, 2050.

Correct.

I've seen Quadra Drive II in action (friend's father bought a brand spanking new 2012 model last year). Truly impressive.

And for the question about shortening the original or getting a whole new shaft, having the original shortened is cheaper because all you pay for is labor. You already have the tube and both ends. Having a new one built you pay for the tube, the yokes AND the labor. Will probably double the cost. But if you have a new one made, it can be made to your specs. Mine is made from .3" diameter, .188 wall DOM tubing. Expensive as all heck (the tube alone was over $100), but after I was sitting on the shaft rolling side to side instead of moving forwards or backwards it is still straight without any dents. Wish I would have gone that route the first time before I turned my stock shaft into a candy cane, bent and dented a shortened 2wd Toyota one (looks some someone went to town with a sledge) and twisted another stock one in half.

Come on people! I got one vote each, that doesn't help me!

Mine only slipped after my alternator went out and the battery got below 9V (two separate occasions now). Still fine. It might be an electrical problem caused by the degreasing, but it sounds more like a problem with the clutches needing a rebuild (or swap).

Historical plates. Only ever have to pay once, no renewal fees ever. And they are both the same $$$ anyway.

Okay, I need votes. The choices are: 1 - 87JPMJ 2 - JEEPMJ

Get it shortened now or put the 35 back in until you do.

It will be cheaper to have your 2wd rear shaft shortened instead of having the 4wd one lengthened. On my truck with 6.25" front lift there was enough slack in the slip joint on the front driveshaft to work fine without needing lengthened.

What threw me off is you described it as a "grinding" noise. Mine sounds more like a CD player loading or ejecting a CD. Mine is 25 years old, I think it's allowed to make a bit of noise. When it quits making noise is when I will start to worry about it.

I don't like language filters that try to correct your spelling, especially if they are wrong. I'm on a board that used to automatically change its to it's. It took myself and three other people two WEEKS for the administrator to finally believe that its is a perfectly valid word (as is it's). The problem I had is that I used its correctly, and the language filter would automatically change it to the wrong it's. But AFAIK, wa't without the apostrophe is not a valid word, and if it is, I'm sure I would never use it. :thumbsup:

There is a small plastic clip that snaps around the rod to hold it in place. Maybe the hanging down piece of plastic are the remains of a broken clip?

My truck (6.25" front, maybe 2" higher in back) on 35" tires and stock gears, just driving sucks due to no torque. Until a few months ago I used to tow a 2000 pound pop-up camper behind it. That REALLY sucked, but I did it. Maybe 3000 miles total over the last two years. I used a stock MJ Class III receiver I originally got for my bicycle rack and a Harbor Freight adjustable drop ball mount. Glad I have upgraded to a camper van and a car trailer, so now the MJ gets towed.

How many miles are on your O2 sensor?

A selectable locker is a locker that can be turned on and off at will. Some use air pressure from a small compressor (ARB), some are electrical (Ected) and some are cable operated (Ox). When turned off the act like an open differential (or a limited slip in the case of an Ected), when turned on they connect the axles together like a spool. No experience with any of them, but know some people who are not happy with their Ected, and a bunch who love their ARB.

I had a subscription to Peterson's that just expired. Will not be renewing it either. May give JP a try.

For a mostly offroad rig, yes. If it is street driven a lot I would opt for a limited slip or selectable locker. I have an Aussie in the rear of my trail rig, and knowing how it handles and what it does on the street (especially making a turn pulling away from a stop sign or traffic light) I will NEVER put an automatic locker, be it lunch box or full carrier, in the rear axle of a rear wheel drive daily driver.