mvusse

Mine is on 35" tires and 6.25" front lift with short arms and rides like a Cadillac. I would start with removing the track bar and drag link and running two pieces of string between their end point. If the two pieces of string do not run parallel to each other, see what needs to be changed to make them run parallel to relieve your bump steer. As far as the bumps go, I don't know. Shocks too stiff? Heim joints in the control arms instead of rubber bushings?

That was me, wasn't it? I believe I PMed you to let you know I didn't need it anymore as I sold the XJ I needed it for.

Saw that a while ago somewhere under the heading "How to turn an FJ Cruiser inside out". We all lack common sense at one time or another. He's one lucky SOB.

Chevy drop shackles give you a little less than 1". They give a Cherokee 2".

2wd or 4wd? Some headers will interfere with the front driveshaft on a 4wd.

We also have members on here from Sweden (or Norway?), Germany and France, although I can't remember having seen posts from them the last couple years.

I arrived at Badlands Offroad park (after a 400 mile drive) with 5 loose lug nuts on my driver side front wheel. The hub cap was the only thing preventing them from completely coming off. When I finally figured out what the problem was, I tightened the ^&@#* out of them and in the process snapped off one of the studs. :fs1: Still wheeled on it all day Saturday and drove home 400 miles Sunday before I replaced that broken one.

If you really think that low of the Renix engine, you may want to drop 90 off your list of what you're looking for. Although IMO, there's nothing wrong with the Renix engine. Enough power, adequate mileage and high reliability.

Actually, the op got he thinking dual tanks may be nice for the added range. Except I'd either plumb mine the other way (allow the XJ tank to dump into the MJ one) or more likely a switch to select what tank the engine draws from. Don't know where I'd put the filler fro the XJ tank, though.

Straight line, I'd use 4wd with the 231 on take-off if traction was a problem, then go back to 2wd immediately after launch.

What's a reasonable amount of time? My fuel pump with a dirty sock so that I just barely limped into my parents' driveway in still pumped out the remaining 5 gallons of fuel (into a gas can) in just a few minutes.

My vehicles leak oil, so I can't take them to the strip. A buddy that usually races his Mustang took his XJ to the strip a few times and consistently runs in the 17s with 31" tires and stock gears. With stock tires, high 16s might be possible. assuming you have a 4.0.

Check your spark plugs for build up, do a compression test and match those results against the plugs.

:agree:

I've done that while going 60mph on I-77. In my case the unit bearing separated, taking out the outer axle shaft and brakes in the process. Half the unit bearing and most of the rotor still attached to the wheel, brake caliper hanging by the hose, other half of the unit bearing still in the (bent) steering knuckle. When it landed, the bottom of the lower ball joint snapped off. I highly doubt yours is still okay. If you have aluminum wheels, the lug nuts need to be retorqued after 10 miles of driving and again after 100 miles. If you don't do that they will quite often loosen by themselves.

I don't want a FF 14 bolt. Yes you can shave them. $250 for the new cover and bottom plate, probably $50 for welding, $100 to have the ring gear shaved down and I'm looking at $400 PLUS the axle and whatever it takes to bolt it under my truck. I also think a FF14 bolt would be overkill. There is not a lot of weight on the rear. After I get done with it (bed removed, frame cut back to the spring hangers) there will be even less. Ultimate goal will be a double triangulated 4 link with the frame stopping in front of the rear axle. and a tube bed just large enough for gas tank, spare tire, tools and cooler. Keeping the same 120" wheel base I have now. I'm set on the front 60. I am on an EXTREMELY limited budged. So I'm looking at junk yard options with minimal modifications. That's also why I'm looking at stock available gearing as I don't have the funds to spend $300 for gears and install kits, let alone $600 to do both axles.

I currently run a D30 front, 8.25" rear, both locked with 35" tires. Never had a problem with the 8.25, but the D30 is a different story. I am tired of replacing shafts and u joints multiple times per year plus rebuilding the entire diff about once a year. Thought at first of moving to a Waggy 44 or a narrowed Ford 44, but then realized I would still have the same u joints. After thinking over a bunch of options I decided to move up to a D60, and leaving it full width. That means I should also get a full width rear axle. I'm hoping to find a D60 set up with 4.10 gears (or lower if I can find it) because having to regear it would break my budget. However, with a 60 under the front my next set of tires is likely to be larger than my current 35s. Options: -Ford Rear D44 from my 1979 F100 I used to have. The axle is still under the remains of that truck which became a trailer after a head on crash. Problem with it is 2.72 gears. AFAIK, Dana/Spicer doesn't even make gears that high anymore, so I'd be looking at gears and master install kit, but the axle is free. It also has 5 lug flanges where the D60 would have 8 lug, and don't know if it will stand up to 37" or larger tires. -Corporate 14 bolt. Indestructible, and shouldn't be too hard to find with 4.10 gears and would match the bolt pattern on the 60. Problem is it's HUGE. Boat anchor. Would drag on every rock unless I move up to 42" or bigger tires. I know I could shave it, but too much involved in that. -Mini 14 bolt. Semi float, still plenty strong enough. Don't know how easy to find with 8 lug shafts and 4.10 gears. -Corporate 10 bolt. Small, should be no weaker than the 8.25", but I think only available with 5 or 6 lug, not 8. -D80, too big -D70, maybe too big. -D60. -Ford 9". Available with 8 lug shafts? Difficult to find for cheap as everybody wants them. -Whatever I missed. I'm kind of leaning toward a mini 14 bolt or D60 Would like input.

Chevy 2" drop shackles may lift a Cherokee 2", but not a Comanche. The net lift I got on my MJ was ~0.75" to 1".

More important than being balanced is being perfectly straight and especially being perfectly in phase.

There are no other straight swaps that I know off, but there are other trucks using 1310 yokes. My first "custom" drive shaft was out of a 2wd Toyota that I had shortened by my local drivetrain shop for around $100. (Although my current one was custom built out of 3/16 wall DOM tubing for $400).

If you're getting rear packs from Hell Creek, you won't need the add-a-leafs from Rusty's.

Parked it in a heated shop to thaw out and dry up so I can work on it this weekend or next week.

Don't know when I get to build it (originally planned for last year, but that didn't happen) I will be 24x40 with 12' ceilings. 16x8 door on the alley behind my house opening into a 24x24 with a 4' wide, 8' high catwalk around three sides for storage. Then a 9x8 door on the alley alongside my house opening into a 16x24 partition with a two post lift, workbench and all my tools. Reason for two partitions is so I have to only heat part of it when working on a vehicle in the winter. Thought of in-floor radiant heat, but decided against it. Probably going with baseboard heat and a ceiling fan or two.

"...the creation of life." @ 3:54 :rotf: :rotfl2: