mvusse

The perches came with 3 sets of holes already in them, and the axle is already 1" forward from center. As for being nuts to get under the truck while the engine was running in drive? Not really. I trusted my daughter to hit the brake and turn the key off if I had to yell at her to do so, but fully expected a rear tire to start spinning and digging a hole in my gravel driveway before it would climb the blocks, and with the 33" tires the axle would have gone right over top of me without hitting me. If I didn't fully trust the lack of traction on the gavel I would have parked it in the grass up against my tree. But I was able to tell what was happening before the tire even spun.

Went to pull-a-part Cleveland West today with the intention of getting new better front axle shafts for the Comanche. First stop was a 99 XJ. Had the passenger shaft out in a jiffy, but driver side was missing. Went to look at a 98, but driver side was missing. Noticed an 88 Sportruck 2wd swd that was not listed in the inventory, but it's been picked clean. Then moved on to a 97 XJ, driver side shaft was missing. 95 turned out to be a mislabelled grand Cherokee with CV shafts, other 95 was 2wd, 94 was missing entire front axle another 94 I couldn't find, and then I come across a 91 XJ Wagoneer with ABS that's not on my print out of Cherokees. Could not get the hub nut off, but swiped the wiper delay module. Beside it was a 90, fromt which I also swiped the delay module and the full gauge cluster with tach, then on to a 93 with ABS, got the hub nut and brake caliper off before I noticed the hub bolts were rounded off. Every Grand Cherokee I walked by I glanced at the front axle, but all were CV. Then on the way to a 93 XJ I came by another Grand, 99 I believe, and as I glance over I notice a CB boot on the passenger side axle. I don't know what made me turn and look behind me after I passed it, but I did and noticed the driver side shaft had no CV boot, but did have an ABS wire. Sure enough, and got it off in about 15 minutes. On the way I also swiped a gas shock off a truck cap to use on my cap (lift gate stays open by itself now) and a thermostat housing with a temp sensor I will be using for my electric fan. It did take a few more tries to get 2 working wiper delay modules, exchanged under warranty. So total for the day: 1 hour 15 minutes driving each way 3 and a half hours in the yard - driver and passenger ABS axle shafts with 297 joints. Both joints are bad, so will replace with 760. - thermostat housing with temp sensor - gas shock for lift gate on my truck cap - 2 wiper delay modules - full gauge cluster with tach Cost: $85 I almost grabbed a double diaphragm booster with master cylinder and brake pedal and everything else for $25, almost grabbed another full gauge cluster with tach for the XJ, almost grabbed a spare hub for $25, almost grabbed a spare 29 spline 8.25" shaft for $15, but I had to stop somewhere.

I never understood the Jeep thing until I bought my Comanche soon after my 37th birthday. Then a year later I traded my flawless body Suburban with somewhat major mechanical problems for a rust but mechanically sound Cherokee. On paper I lost my @$$ on the deal, but in reality I needed to spend about $1000 under the hood of the Suburban, and so far I spent $6 on the Cherokee for a pulley bearing.

Locally $1.96 Cleveland $1.95

I was thinking 37. But then I remember I had another one last January. So 38. Mind is fading fast with old age,

When I read the title I though WTF? We don't need no stinking drinking and driving here. :fs1: Then I actually read the thread. Awesome! But Wahoo, glass in a pool is a definite no-no. :no:

Put 12" concrete blocks in front of the front wheels, had my daughter get in, start it and put it in gear. I then crawled underneath to look at the drive shaft yoke and transfer case while she slowly pushed the gas deeper and deeper. Engine/transmission/transfer case move forward with the drive shaft. Drive shaft is 2" away from bottoming out. So new theory: Slip yoke is out far enough to have enough play that under load and with the steep tube angle it can jam itself with enough friction to not want to slide into the transfer case more. Trying by hand the yoke has about 1/32" of play. So possible solutions: 1 - Chain engine to make it impossible to slide forward. This may or may nor cause problems out back. 2 - Put together a set of leaf packs with less lift (I'm currently sitting at about 8" in the back). May or may not work. 3 - Shim the sping perches to move the pinion angle up. Should give a bit more engagement in return for possible vibes. 4 - Longer yoke off Ebay. 5 - Longer drive shaft 6 - SYE and new drive shaft. I think I'm going to go with 1 and possibly 3 as a temporary band aid until I have the funds to do 6. Most expensive solution, but probably the best, with added benefits. So what drive shaft would be a good candidate to start out with as a base to use with SYE and an 8.25"? What are the thoughts on agricultural PTO drive shafts? They seem to be popular with guys building demo derby cars and trucks.

Put 12" concrete blocks in front of the front wheels, had my daughter get in, start it and put it in gear. I then crawled underneath to look at the drive shaft yoke and transfer case while she slowly pushed the gas deeper and deeper. Engine/transmission/transfer case move forward with the drive shaft. Drive shaft is 2" away from bottoming out. So new theory: Slip yoke is out far enough to have enough play that under load and with the steep tube angle it can jam itself with enough friction to not want to slide into the transfer case more. Trying by hand the yoke has about 1/32" of play. So possible solutions: 1 - Chain engine to make it impossible to slide forward. This may or may nor cause problems out back. 2 - Put together a set of leaf packs with less lift (I'm currently sitting at about 8" in the back). May or may not work. 3 - Shim the sping perches to move the pinion angle up. Should give a bit more engagement in return for possible vibes. 4 - Longer yoke off Ebay. 5 - Longer drive shaft 6 - SYE and new drive shaft. I think I'm going to go with 1 and possibly 3 as a temporary band aid until I have the funds to do 6. Most expensive solution, but probably the best, with added benefits. So what drive shaft would be a good candidate to start out with as a base to use with SYE and an 8.25"? What are the thoughts on agricultural PTO drive shafts? They seem to be popular with guys building demo derby cars and trucks. Edit: more tech than pub, so will post over there as well. Please do not reply here.

$1.98

Front: 4.5" lift coils, 1.75" spacer, factory rubber insulator ~6.5" lift Rear: SOA with Ruff Stuff Specialties spring perches and stock re-arched 2" lift leaf packs totalling ~8" lift 33x12.50 tires on 15x8 rims.

I did; found them cheap, but not as cheap as pull-a-part. Also found them in my area. But not in my area cheap.

If they allow you to take the cover off, the ring gear has a set of numbers stamped in it, including the number of teeth on the ring gear and the pinion gear. There should also be a tag fastened to one of the bolts with the ratio, but it is usually too badly rusted to be able to read. Or missing altogether. Rule of thumb (not set in stone) from the factory: 2.5l 4 speed stick = 3.55 2.5l 5 speed stick = 4.10 2.5l auto = 4.56 4.0l 5 speed stick = 3.07 4.0l auto = 3.55

Except I can't find a TJ anywhere near besides Davey's. A number of newer XJs at the Cleveland West pull-a-part, though. The money I save could be used toward new 760 joints.

If it wobbles at 55 but not 60 I'm guessing an unbalanced tire. But then again, I have the kinda the same problem, wobble at 45 but not below 40 or above 50, that I'm pretty sure is caused by the two bad ball joints (upper and lower) on passenger side wheel.

Davey's Jeeps quoted me $125 for a set with good u-joints. But I just found out Cleveland has 2 pull-a-parts and they charge $15 per shaft. So what all would have the 297x/760x joints? 96 up XJs (?) any XJ with abs (?) What else?

Also, XJs are soa, so the thickness of the leaf itself adds to the lift. Comanches are sua, so the thickness of the leaf does nothing.

How much should I expect to pay/what is a fair price for a set of D30 axle shafts with the bigger 297x/760x u-joints?

I have 8.5" long perches to combat axle wrap. I had the move the axle forward for the drive shaft to be in the transfer case far enough for my liking as I was afraid of breaking the tail cone. It's still out too far, but will have to do for now. So lots of travel there. Really don't think that's the problem, but won't rule it out. Will take a close look at the fan and radiator tomorrow. Been too wet and too late/dark when I had time to look at it today or yesterday. Planning on fixing it one way or another Saturday.

I watched the motor flex forward, passenger side down, driver side up pulling the throttle under the hood while in drive, parked against my tree. Then it moved back some as a tire lost traction and started digging a hole in my lawn.

The engine mounts, bolts to the frame and engine brackets are all fine. The radiator as far as I can tell is in the correct location. I have not taken a tape measure to it, but I believe I have about 2" between the fan and the radiator. The fan hitting the shroud started recently, but I can't remember if it was before, after or at the same time as the swap to the 33s. Trying to track down the cause I found first one, then the other busted engine mounts. But the motor flexes the rubber in the new mounts enough that a pedal to the floor burn out shifts the engine far enough forward for the fan to hit the radiator now that I took the shroud off.

Just looked at their web site. They have a choice between major engine vibrations and paying an arm and a leg. I think I'll stick with the stock style mounts and a piece of chain.

After I have lost my vacuum lines three times while wheeling now, I have to agree.

Get some new slide thingies, a wire wheel for an angle grinder, new center bolts and a can of spray paint. No point replacing perfectly good leafs.

Replaced the other bad engine mount today, and made a very careful inspection of the tranny mount, but it's fine. Accelerated a bit fast and the %#&$ fan hit the shroud again. Parked the truck against my tree and pulled the throttle with the hood open and sure enough, the engine flexes some through the mounts, as is expected, AND pulls forward. Decided to treat symptoms and took the shroud out. I then did a pedal to the floor burn out in my alley (nice track, even with 33" tires), then parked it and popped the hood to see if the fan hit anything. THE ^%#&@ THING ATE THE #^@*$ RADIATOR!!!!! For the fan to hit the radiator the engine has to shift forward almost 2"! Two new engine mounts and the tranny mount is fine. What gives? Unless someone can tell me the cause, or come up with a better solution I'm going to run a chain from the block to the frame, allowing the engine to move in any direction except forward.

I have to disagree. He did another post like that a few months ago that was better. :teehee: