mvusse

Still that's about 50% more than the stock Renix 4.0's 173-177hp.

I chose option 2 as well. Worked well for a few wheeling trips, but have now have upgraded to a single piece shaft with a 5-760x joint. Supposedly 40% stronger than a 297 and a lot stronger than a 260. Kinda pricey, though, at $30, but since I already blew one 260 joint since installing the Aussie I figured it was time to upgrade. So Wade, what's stopping you? You asked me, what, 2 months ago where I got mine?

Glass pack is $15-$30 depending on what you get.

Doesn't Don have like 300hp at the wheels with a 4.7 stroker and some other add-ons? You'd be hard pressed to get that out of a 305 for the same money. If you really do want to put a sbc in there, why not a 383? For mud bogs you need hp, and lots of them. I suggest whatever you do, make sure it is built to handle nitrous. That's the cheapest power adder if the engine can take it.

I know it's owned by the rail road. Generally rail road companies do not give permission to the public to be on their land or right of ways. I will believe it is legal when I see somebody with a signed statement giving permission on company letterhead. Assumed permission and stated permission are not the same thing.

Where that at? Baumhart? Come out to Jeepskool this weekend. It's legal...

Not buying fireworks this year. Will be fun enough watching military firepower blow up 3 perfectly good Cherokees filled with propane tanks.

LOVE IT!

If your front axle does not look like that picture, please post a picture of it.

Cut the J-bolts. They will be too badly rusted to be reusable anyway.

I have a stock 23.5 gallon tank, and it fits both the long and the short arm units. I'm using a long arm as the short arm reads full before the tank is.

The rear drive shaft and rear axle will not work. Everything else will. You will have to find a 91 or 92 MJ fuel pump assembly. Despite what parts stores will tell you, they do not have them, and Cherokee ones will not work. The pumps are the same between Cherokee and Comanche, the assembly is not. Also the fuel level sender is different between Renix (86-90) and Chrysler (91-01). If you reuse your Comanche sender it will read backwards, and the resistance values are off.

For price you can't beat a glass pack. A glass pack with the stock cat is not very loud at all. Imagine without a cat it would be, though.

It's not the brackets that bend easily. As stated before the stock control arms themselves are flimsy and bend easily when you get hung up off road.

I traveled to Atlanta, GA day before yesterday to deliver some furniture. 95 degrees, humid as all could be, and even the breeze didn't feel nice. Yesterday morning before heading back home the low was 77 and when I left at 9:45am it was up to 83 again already. Some snow would have felt good.

Looked at it sitting there on jack stands with the entire front axle tore apart waiting on a friggin $10 oil seal nobody has in stock.

That's awesome! Hope it's okay that I copied it on JeepSkool?

Stock non-disconnect seal (National 710068) does not work.

WTF?

Got an non-disconnect front axle seal for the passenger side, assuming it would work. Assumption is the mother of all screw ups. Need to get a NOS 11771 from NAPA tomorrow. If they don't have it I'll see if Advance has a National 40576s in stock. So my MJ is still sitting with the front wheels, hubs, brakes, axle shafts, diff cover and diff carrier spread out across the driveway. :wall:

I'm in the middle of swapping a single piece passenger side shaft into my vac disco axle housing. According to Autozone as well as Advance Auto Parts, for a non-disco housing the passenger and driver side seals are the same. Went to install it and no go. The Timken/Mational 710068 seal has an outside measurement of 2.128" designed to fit into a 2.122" shaft. That works on the driver side of a vac-disco housing, and either side of a non-disco housing. The vac-disco housing passenger side tube is smaller, though. Supposedly NAPA 11800 (2.004") or NAPA 11771 (2.000") will fit. Don't know what Timken/National part number they cross reference to. :wall:

Got the ball joint done and installed a Spicer 5-760x u-joint in my single piece passenger shaft. Need to buy an oil seal for it, and am running out of time tonight.

The more the merrier. Although if we happen to get 30 rigs together we might want to split into 2 groups on the trails.

Got mostly done replacing a bad lower ball joint. After that's finished I will convert front passenger axle to single piece shaft, and am thinking about cross over steering. Either see if I can make a WJ factory set up work, or something after market.