mvusse

Punished it pulling down a 70 foot tree that blew down in last September's storm and got hung up in two other trees. Co-worker cut it almost thropugh at the base and got his saw stuck. 50' logging chain, one little tug to pull the bottom apart freeint the saw, then 30' run, repeat 4 times. 4 times moved it about 6 feet each, last one I dragged it some 40 feet until it lay flat before I started digging holes again. Left 15 holes and one 12" deep furrow about 65' long. Trailer hitch brackets moved some, and the mounting bolts bent (will replace tomorrow), but everything is still in one piece. I think I'm happy with the strength of stock 29 spline 8.25" shafts, as well as the 760 joints up front.

That would be called a democracy. The States are closer to a dictatorship.

Trying to track down front growl I removed front drive shaft, greased two dry caps (actually, one was dry, the other had water in it) on lower u joint and carefully inspected double cardan joint. Growl still there, so reinstalled drive shaft. Inspected hubs, and by process of elimination decided it was the diff. Only wishful thinking made it not my first guess... Front axle full of chocolate milk again, probably happened driving in the creek at Cable Creek to wash the mud off. Nice wear pattern on ring gear is gone, showing even wear across the entire surfaces (front and back) of each tooth. Decided to drive on it until she blows, then move to 4.10 axles. Changed out oil on front axle, tightened valve cover bolts (the back one was almost completely out!), topped off oil, greased all joints and tested coolant; needs more antifreeze. Done wheeling for a few months. Need the MJ to stay together reliably for a little while while I weld a new floor in the XJ, meaning I won't have a spare vehicle to drive if something happens.

Was just this past weekend I realized he hasn't been heard from in a while. Hoping he's all right.

I run 235/75R15 extra load range at 44 psi on my Cherokee, and before that on the Manche. They rub the control arms at full lock. About equivalent to what would be a 29x9.25. And yes, they are P rated, not LT.

The track bar isn't quite parallel, but it being so much shorter, the angle will change much faster than the drag link angle when the suspension flexes. So there will be a point where they are parallel, and higher or lower than that and they won't be. On top of that, the axle bracket for the track bar goes up quite a bit from the axle, and thus will have to withstand quite a bit of force to counteract the leverage of the track bar. Could probably use some extra bracing. Steering lock to lock, any interference issues between the tie rod and the sway bar brackets? I want to go over the knuckle, but no matter how I look at it, I think the sway bar brackets are in the way. 88mjmanche: Steering stabilizer is not mandatory with a tight suspension and steering. It would help you hold on to the wheel when one of the tires hits a rock of road, though.

If I were you, I would change to 4.10 gears, which will help a bit, and DEFINITELY get trailer brakes. A dual diaphragm booster upgrade and a stroker may not be bad ideas either. 5000 pounds is a lot of weight for a 3000 pound truck, and right at the very limit of listed towing capacity. (which technically requires a weigh distributing hitch).

I've been using the Purolater Pur-One filters. If he redid his study, it may be time to read up again.

The u joint ears on the axles are truly massive and machined for full circle clips, and the visible parts of both the inner and outer shafts are WAY thicker than stock. I don't know of any company that makes axles looking like that that are not chromoly.

Everything has been said above, except: drop the drop pitman arm. With a coil sprung suspension it is not needed, and it will most likely cause problems down the road.

I'd rather fix dents than rust, within reason. That bed is beyond reason.

Nice try, but this yard doesn't ship stuff ;)

I NEVER, EVER hit the jack pot in junk yards like some people do. This time may be different. I didn't have time to get them, and am not saying where they are, but I found a $600 set of chromoly shafts for my front axle. And they will cost me less than $50. :banana: Let's hope they'll still be there next weekend.

You have a dent in your bumper :no: :D Looks good, though.

Yeah, don't waste money on it. It needs rebuilt. And if rebuilding, might as well build a stroker. Get a used engine in the meanwhile.

If the check engine light is on, first thing to do would be to read the codes.

Pull the pump and check the sock. Also replace the fuel filter again. Wouldn't hurt to drain the tank and wipe it clean inside. I'm betting you have crud in the tank.

You did put a new sock on the new pump, right?

Got a new driver side door. Looked all over the Canton pull-a-part, and decided to stay with a 96 or older door to minimize problems. First door I tried I couldn't get off because one of the torx bolts stripped. Second door I tried worked, but had some problems. No surface rust like my old door, nor any dents, but the bottom is rotted. Still looks better than my old one, though. It also didn't have a mirror. No big deal, as I can use my old one, but still, why not put a mirror on? The new door also has power locks (won't be using) and power windows (will be using). Didn't want a whole bunch of switches for one single window, so I switched out the door handle/lock/window control for the one from the back door. Also doesn't have a vent window that can open, but that will come off my old door. The door speaker has a ripped cone, so I took the one out of the passenger door. $43.02 out the door. So I now have a 1992 door with a back door handle, 1995 mirror, passenger door speaker, and soon to have a 1987 vent window. Got the door on and aligned. Opens and closes nicely, but the lock is giving me trouble. Turns out a Renix era lock does not fit a Chrysler era door. Will need to modify some with a dremel to make my old lock fit the new door.

He might be fine sitting there, but when moving, the truck creates a bow wave in front of it that could easily cover the air intake. A snorkel may be in order.

No offence, but I'd like to be in a closed cab in the winter. You wouldn't get me on a snow mobile (or that thing) without a Gore-Tex suit.

With stock gears being 3.07, 3.55 puts you close to stock ratio with 33" tires.

There will be only one bulb, with the plate marked either "4wd", or "part time". There are no bulbs to differentiate high and low range, and there's no bulb for full time 4wd. The second picture is it. The first picture is just the markings for the shifter, which is lit when you have the headlight on, and not lit when the lights are off.

For comparison, 10 pounds of CO2, which is a common size tank for off road use, is about equal to a 60 gallon air tank (like on a large compressor) at 150psi.

Switched out a gallon of water for a gallon of antifreeze in the cooling system. Starting to get too cold for all water. Going to pull-a-part tomorrow to get a new door, after which I will start driving it again.