mvusse

Track bar was tight on both ends when I inspected the suspension three weeks ago.

You're a friggin idiot! We try and try to get more legal places to wheel, and it's stupid stunts like this that causes us to be shut out of more and more places.

Failed at solving DW. When I bought the truck, new bushings in the control arms fixed it. Then it came back, noticed play in the frame side of track bar. Replaced track bar and bracket, fixed. Then it came back, found a bad balljoint, fixed again. Then it came back again. Inspected all suspension and steering components, and found play in steering. Replaced everything from pitman arm to steering knuckles, minus damper. Upgraded to stronger parts in the process. Steering is tight now, DW is still there. Checked balljoints, found another bad one. Replaced it, DW is still there. Swapped wheels front to back, no difference. @%#&^#$@%&* I have a feeling I'm going to completely disassemble front suspension one part at a time, and put it back together, and still not have it fixed. I WANT TO DRIVE THE PIG AGAIN. SAFELY!

I live in a small town with a single track going through it, and on average one cargo train (small one, <10 cars) going through per day. Funniest thing I saw was back when I lived across from Mc D's. Train stopped right behind, engineer got off, and went inside to get lunch! Got back on the train and started moving again.

How 'bout southwest Ontario. Say halfway up the Lake Huron coast line, Goderich area? I'll be there (actually, in Clinton) visiting with my parents and brother between Xmas and New Years, although I'm taking Booger (XJ) and not the Pig. Even London or Kitchener would be okay, but Toronto is a bit far. Quebec is out of the question.

Forecast 1", got a dusting that promptly evaporated (sublimated) because of the dry air. Yesterday morning it was 50 degrees, yesterday afternoon it was 20 degrees with 40 mph wind, wind kept blowing with the temp near steady until about noon today, then it started dropping again. 11 degrees right now, but at least the wind died down. All the forecasts consider us to be in the snow belt, while in reality I'm just a few miles too far south and west. So for every inch they forecast, we get about 1/16". Unless it comes from the south (gulf moisture, but cold enough to not come down as rain). Then we get dumped on big time.

Mine is all Marklin (Don't know how to do the accent on the 'A'), but a new hobby store opened up just outside of town, so I might buy some new stuff to stash away also. I have enough track, but last I checked I couldn't find any engines... And my power supply us runs off 220V, so I could use one of those also. Train stuff is incredibly cheap here as compared to Europe. Or maybe prices have just dropped over 22 years.

I have quite a bit of N scale stuff, but it's still boxed up from moving to Canada in 1987. Had a half completed set up in the attic back in Europe, but no photos. Might finally remember to take it back to the States with me this holiday season, even though I'm at least a few years away from having time to mess with it again. When I do get it set up again, finished or not, if I'm moving again the train set will be sold with the house. The last set up took me 4 months to break apart. Boxed up the equipment, dumpstered the scenery.

I like the house on the right. Pure genius!

The MTR is the exact same tread as the Treadwright Guard Dog retreads.

I'm getting 35x12.50 Maxxis Mudders in two months. Secretary at work had a set of them in 285/75R16on her F250 and they lasted pretty good. Much longer than the generic mud tires she got last year and are bald already. Tire place commented that the Mudders are among the longest lasting MTs on the market. A coworker has a set of Treadwright 31x10.50 Guard Dog tires and they have been wearing very well, but they are more a general off road tire, not a mud tire.

A warning for those friends, husbands and/or boyfriends who may be regular Home Depot customers. This one caught me by surprise. Over the last month I became a victim of a clever scam while out shopping. Simply going out to get supplies has turned out to be quite traumatic. Don't be naive enough to think it couldn't happen to you or your friends. Here's how the scam works: Two seriously good-looking 20-21year-oldgirls come over to your car as you are packing your lumber and hardware. They both start wiping your windshield with a rag and Windex, with their breasts almost falling out of their skimpy T-shirts. It is impossible not to look. When you thank them and offer them a tip, they say 'No' and instead ask you for a ride to McDonald's. You agree and they get in the backseat. On the way, they remove all of their clothes and start making out. Then one of them climbs over into the front seat and starts crawling all over you. She then takes off your pants and throws them into the backseat. While the one is keeping you distracted the other one steals your wallet. I had my wallet stolen August 4th, 9th, 10th, twice on the 15th, then again on the 17th, 20th, 24th & 29th. Also, September 1st, 7th, twice on the 8th, and again on the 16th, 23rd, 26th, 30th. Then on October 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 6th, three times last Saturday and very likely again this upcoming weekend. So tell your friends to be careful. P.S. Target has wallets on sale $2.99 each, a 20% discount if you Buy 10 or more

One cubic yard of water is 765 litre is 765kg or about 3/4 ton. You telling me gravel has a lower density than water? Then how come gravel sinks? My book has the lightest gravel listed as 1522 kg/cubic meter. Natural gravel with sand is 1922. Since there is .765 cubic meter in a cubic yard, that would be 1164kg for the loose dry gravel, or 2560 pounds. 1.3 ton per yard. 10 ton ~7.7 cubic yards, and cover (assuming 4" deep) 70 square yards or 625 square feet. That would be 25x25 feet, or enough for a parking area for 3 cars.

Best picture I can get for now. It's dark when I go to work in the morning, it's dark when I come home... Bought it Saturday morning, and my daughter and a friend decorated it. Picture may be deceiving on the size as I have 9' ceilings, not the standard 8'. Blue spruce, $25 because I refuse to pay $45 for a frazier fir.

When the cat in my Suburban was mostly plugged, the truck jumped away from a still stand like a jackrabbit, then immediately stumbled, and was fine after that with more gas. Gas mileage was down the drain also (and it never is good to begin with in a Suburban...). Once it plugged up completely I could not keep it running, but I should consider myself lucky I didn't blow up the exhaust manifold or Y pipe. The flash light trick is a sure fire diagnosis, but the cat may be welded on. Even if it's bolted with a flange adapter, the bolts are probably rusted.

Yes you should be able to, but it's also quite possible you could still use more length. I drove around with a drive shaft 1" shorter than I have now until I bent it by parking my truck with the drive shaft on a rock and the rear wheels off the ground. Only way to find out what length is optimal is to do the SOA swap, install the drive shaft, and cycle the rear suspension from extreme to extreme while watching the slip yoke and measure left over travel when engaged most. There are many variables including the shape of your rear spring, length of shackles (not everyone uses the stock ones) and pinion angle.

Also a transfer case will not bolt up to a 2wd transmission.

Sorry about my confusion. As far as I knew, only the 91 and newer had the sending unit on the thermostat housing, so when you posted this I assume you had a HO engine. I have never seen a Renix that came stock with a temp sending unit in the thermostat housing. Mine has one because I swapped it in. It will be used for the aux fan control I still need to build, as my truck never had one from the factory.

What would make me believe the nut won't round over like the bolt head did? And I'm not wasting a good socket. I'll be putting a junk socket to good use :brows:

Wasted a bunch of time trying almost everything to get the second bolt holding the brake caliper to the knuckle without any luck. Busted a few sockets in the process, and rounded the head off beyond salvageable. Tomorrow I'm welding a socket to it in a last ditch effort.

After my SOA swap I fully compressed, and completely unloaded the suspension, measuring the travel of the slip yoke to find out what I needed. I now have a drive shaft 1" longer than my stock shaft, but that's on top of a D35->8.25" swap (8.25" has 1" longer nose) and a YJ yoke, which is 1/2" longer. So with my original axle and yoke a perfect length shaft (as much spline engagement as possible without bottoming out) would have been 2.5" longer. Because of this, when I ran my D35 spring over and my old shaft, I used another set of holes in the spring perches to move the axle forward 1".

Those are what I'm running. Once I upgrade the Cherokee it will have them as well, and keep the old 260 Cherokee ones as trail spares.

I had a problem with the bottle cracking due to 21 year old brittle plastic. Got a new bottle, less than a year later the cap didn't want to close tightly. Got another cap from the junk yard and it's good again, for now. I will convert to open at some point in time, because I'm tired of messing with plastic caps. Give me a good old fashioned reliably metal radiator cap.

The ECU needs the input from the sensor on the thermostat housing to operate properly. That is why it doesn't run right when it's disconnected. If you keep it disconnected you will most likely see a drop in fuel economy as well, since it will run in open loop all the time. If you want to be able to run the fan the whole time, just wire it (the fan) to a switch on the dashboard.

Borrowed ball joint press from Autozone, loosened lug nuts and spindle nut (breaking my breaker bar in the process @%#&@$# Napa life time warranty. Napa is not open Saturday evening or Sunday!), jacked up front corner, removed wheel, removed 1 of the 2 bolts holding the brake calliper to the knuckle, rounded over second bolt. :grrrr: :mad: :wall: Sprayed with PB Blaster, will continue tomorrow.