conker

Little west of Atlantic city. Not west enough.

Daytime on/off Nightime on/off

Long time no post. Lets see. Realized wheelbarrows are stupid to use when you've got a truck. Took a picture in the snow. Took a picture of it clean. Ordered and installed a 21'' LED lightbar ($60 w/ shipping) Installed the clock I picked up in december, which happened to be the right style, also 'upgraded' to the woodgrain bezel. Still need to aim the light bar but other than that shes all set. Also removed my AC components, once I pick up a tarus fan and delete the mech fan I'll remove the compressor as well.

May want to check out OEM wheels from chargers/challengers. as far as I know they're the proper bore size. I'm going to just go full retard and import wheels for my MJ.

Hell yeah, weld a trashcan to the TB!

:laughin: I think I'll stick to running tube to the grille opening with a pod filter or similar.

I borrowed my dads powerstroke the other day to go get some kero for my heater and tried to clutch in about 5 times when i was leaving the station, as well as reaching for the floor shifter several times. It's a column auto. I've slammed the 'clutch' to the floor in it a few times too, of course I did so in my driveway so i had no seatbelt on while just moving it out of the way.

I had a thought when I swapped my cluster, If you ran the guage temp sensor but kept the idiot lights, would the coolant light slowly illuminate as the engine warmed up?

I'm 'okay' with autos but I prefer stick for everything, 5spd in my Chief, 4spd in my Base. Going to swap a 5spd into my civic once I've got time and figured out what I'm doing as far as an engine build goes. Built autos are pretty awesome though, my buddy had a 88 Monte SS with a 350 and a built trans, that thing would upshift so damn hard. Nothing like having the rear end kick out when it slams into 2nd gear wide open on dry pavement

http://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/cto/4803600966.html I like really want this but I'm satisfied with how the 4spd 2.5 is working out as a DD so far.

I don't keep exact track of it because Its not really a concern but for some rough calculation; $2500 purchase ~$2400(?) for trans/trans parts (ax15 swap) ~$1500 in odds and ends possibly (fluids, sensors, replacement parts) So maybe around $6,000, And I'm not even close to done, this baby still needs to get locked front and rear, lifted and all the other wheeling goodies.

A highly comfy flannel shirt, a steel travel mug, other things, and a suction cup phone mount. This mount is awesome.

Huh. as far as I knew U-haul only sold trucks and never trailers. Unless you bought that a long time ago.

Did you wind up doing anything to the rear end to help curb your axlehop issues yet?

1986 Jeep Comanche Engine / Trans / Transfercase / Front axle / Rear axle / Wheelbase 2.5 4cyl, column shifted auto, 2wd, Dana 35(?) Harrys U-pull-it, Hazleton PA Sitting in said junkyard. Blue interior, body is shot to hell as are the floors, base model cluster, column shifter readout was on the floor when I saw the truck, all interior panels were behind the seat, accidentally broke the rear slider trying to remove it ;_;, Tailgate gone, rear bumper non-salvageable (cut at the mounts for some reason), 2.5 4cyl with Vbelts.

Made a run up to Harrys U-pull in Hazleton PA, Got some good stuff. (nabbed the intake pipe for my honda, figured why not) Also picked up an ashtray without holes in it (PO drilled holes in it ???) a tailgate, a Cherokee owners manual and I think thats it. Had I not been so tired I would of gotten a bunch of burgundy interior parts out of this one cherokee but wasn't that motivated after being there for 5 hours. Took her in the woods a few days ago, just a mild trail out of boredom. Thinking about getting an LSD for it.

So parts stores are closed on thanksgiving. I fixed my washer fluid sprayer by the very in-depth procedure of 'huh, that connector matches the one thats already plugged in, I'll swap them' and then it working. Filled the washer fluid using the tank from the other jeep. And tested the sunpro tach, works fine but the loom is too short so I'll have to extend it. and I'm not sure how I want to go about tapping into the negative side of the ignition coil just yet.

Recently I diagnosed my intermittent heater issues (fan would spin from 3 seconds to 5 minutes and then just quit). I wound up having to unplug the fan switch, plug it back in and jiggle it. Yep. Today I'm going to grab some of that exhaust wrap stuff to quick patch a nasty leak I have and I also am going to do the manifold gasket if I can get the trailers moved out of the way of the tent. I cannot remember If I ever did this or not. It's kind of bothering me now.

http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/4774522903.html He seems a bit insane, asking $5,500 for well.. that.

-snip- realized i worded it completely wrong and changed my mind about it anyway

Jeez, and I thought my previous owners super small wire spliced into a lamp power cord spliced into the factory speaker wiring was bad. (they soldered the speaker wires onto the speakers too)

Bosch always even though I haven't even had to do a pump on any of my vehicles yet. Because Bosch.

My Chief (4.0, ax15) gets 13 no matter what I do, but I need to sort out many things with it as it seems the o2 sensor (along with other sensors?) are making it dump fuel like a madman. (teacher had renix port adapters for his scan tool) My 2wd (2.5 ax4) gets 15.7 (only tracked 1 fillup so far) but it has a nasty exhaust leak at the manifold, and I need to check the o2 sensor. (and do a fan delete)

May be time to get one of those expensive life insurance policies... Loving the build, I want to lower my black MJ but I'm not too sure how I feel about cutting springs. I guess when it comes to lowering our trucks it's pretty much all custom fab work huh?

I'll be doing this upgrade for sure, but my Chief won't be back on the road for a while.