james750

That is on the warranty page of the website.

How do I access the old nut? I thought it was enclosed in the frame rail and out of reach?

I'd like to do that, but with this bumper the bracket that is on it only has the 3 front holes on it and it uses frame tie in brackets to make it work. Here is the bumper: http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1XJFPRE&Category_Code=XJB These are the tie in brackets: http://www.jcroffroad.com/xjuniframe.html I would just weld the tie in brackets onto the bumper, but I have no welder/welding skills and it voids the warranty to modify the bumper or brackets.

Mine is the same way. What is the fix for getting it back to where it should be?

Is this something I should even worry about? IDK if that 3rd bolt in the back is crucial to holding the new bumper on during towing/pulling/winching, or if I just have 2 on each side holding it onto the front crossmember and frame tie in brackets will work just fine? :hmm:

ANOTHER TYPO!!! LOL j/k. :D

If this is the bumper that you are going to add a "wench" to go ahead. But that bumper will never ever handle a winch. It looks like it is just the stock bumper with some tube welded to it.

Pete, you gotta make another run down here sometime, there are so many great trails like this down here! :waving: On another note, my season may be over until next spring. With the rig being severely damaged on 1-70 in October (rear ended by an Impala at 80mph while I was at 25, and being shoved into a Honda CRV). I just got it back to DD status and got my bumper in today. But I still need soooo many parts for it to make it ready to wheel again.

:agree:

I think it is a nut. It is the JCR prerunner bumper that is going on and I did get the unibody tie in brackets but with these brackets it relies on the bumper with the 3 stock mounting bolts on the bracket welded to the bumper and then the tie in brackets extend from the front three bolts back to the frame tie in points. I Just don't know if it is necessary to have the 3rd bolt in order for this to work properly. The bumper will be seeing a winch (mounted to 2" reciever) and will get extensive use out of the d rings. Is this even something to be concerned about or should I just leave it with the 2 front nuts/bolts? Do I need to use grade 8 bolts in the front? What grade were the stock mounting bolts? I want something that will hold for the needed pulling and pushing but also want the bolts to shear off again if another idiot crashes into me. That saved the frame from damage in this last accident. Sorry about having so many questions, just not sure what I need to do to mount this bumper properly.

Back in the accident 3 weeks ago all of the front bumper bolts sheared off inside the holes. Ive tried eazy outs, but they won't work (break off inside bolts) I took care of the front 2 bolts by breaking off the welded nuts. but the bolt in the back is whats troubling me. I need to install a new bumper and want to use all of the bolts with this bumper, but what should I do to get to the nut on the other side or to extract the bolt? If the nut does break off what are my options for a new bolt. From what I saw there wasn't any access to the nut? What do u guys think I should do? Thanks, James

hmm... Its giving me the photobucket this image has been moved or deleted thing.

Pics no worky. :redX:

Unfortunately the 86 didn't have the same front end as the 4.0 setup 87+ models, and therefore they require a little bit more fab work (read:trimming the header panel). I learned this after looking at pics (and comparing them to my MJ) and the write up found on MFPDM's mild build.

It depends on if it is your brake or clutch master? If it is your brake master, and you do not have ABS brakes, DOT 5 will be compatable with any brake fluid you have in their now. DOT regulates the fluid b/c all of them must be compatable and not damage the braking system. The reason why DOT 5 cannot be used in ABS braking systems is because it has silicone in it, and when agitated, DOT 5 will release air into the system. If it is a clutch master, I don't think that DOT 5 can be used at all.

I have a base model 98 XJ that doesn't have a headlight sentinel in it, I looked under the dash for the plug where it is at on the MJs and older Xjs but didnt find it, where is it??? Thanks, James

http://FantasticContraption.com/?designId=4407205

Don't do it. IMHO the best way to go would be to sell the XJ and find one that has been in a rear end collision for cheap, that way you aren't destroying a perfectly good XJ, you'll get the parts needed, and you will probably come out ahead by getting a vehicle where all the parts u don't need are destroyed.

To my knowledge there is NO NSS of any sort on the manual tranny XJ and MJs from 84-2001, though all the autos did have one (at least with the AW4).

Yes, manuals do have a NSS. They are required in many states. Willy True, correct me if I'm wrong, but the manuals in our MJ's/XJ's didn't have them, I know mine doesn't. I was referring to our trucks not so much the whole array of manual trannys on the market. :thumbsup:

yeah, it does that sometimes... As of right now it falls off on exactly 50% of the trails Ive been on this year. :rotfl2: Man I need to fabricate up another spare rack for my bumper. :yes: Ill get some new pics up tonight when I put on the new TPS (Thanks Brent). As of now I no longer have the 31"s on it as it became more of a DD than a weekend wheeler until summer starts up again. and no fender flares up front so as of now there is a lot more space between the tire and fender than there was before, Ill make sure to get pics of the leaf packs and drop shackles.

#1 reason the manual tranny can be better in trucks---> No neutral/clutch safety switch.

Haven't actually replaced one yet, so I'm not sure where its located. When the one went out on my sisters 98'XJ it was where it worked one minute, shut it of for maybe 30-40 secs (just moving around in a parking lot at the time collecting traffic cones) and it wouldn't start for almost 2 hours of wiggling the shifter around in park and nuetral.

After reading/posting on the tire advice thread, I realized I wasn't quite sure how much my lift is. I know that it is an AAL with coils in the front (it was on when I got the truck) and it used to have stock control arms/steering even so with this setup. Measurement from top of tires to wheel well was about 6" Here is my best shot showing the truck on 31"s. EDIT: Not sure how much bigger either, but there are drop shackles accompanying the AAL in the back, Ill try to get better pics of the coils/leafs tonight.

NSS...