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james750

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Everything posted by james750

  1. Yeah there is a reason for that. Rocky road does not have many of the components needed to properly lift a truck. Their kit is missing lower and upper control arms, a longer track bar, and I'm sure that I am missing some other components, you know the expensive stuff needed to lift a truck. IMO yes it will lift your truck, but no it will not lift it right, with that kit you will see problems such as bad control arm angles causing driveline vibes, accelerated bushing wear and potential for death wobble, really bad caster and possibly messed up pinion angle leading to driveline vibes and reduced u joint life. IIRC, they cheap out by stacking coil spacers with small lift coils to give you the lift that you bought. Also, I have heard that they're customer service leaves much to be desired. Stay away from they're kits, you get what you pay for.
  2. I have a non disco HP 30 swapped in. When the shaft was out I put it in 4wd and drove it that way just to see if the sound came back when the output was spinning, and it made no sound. there is a little bit of play in the splines that slip in the shaft, is that a problem? EDIT: Just went down and checked on both of the 97 XJ's front shafts and they have no play in the shaft splines. That might be the problem? Is there any way to repair the shaft to eliminate that problem? I'm a bit reluctant to get a new shaft to put in there after spending $50 on new U-joints in my shaft.
  3. This is getting frustrating. I've been trying to get rid of the clicking noises associated with my front driveshaft. I have been hearing a clicking noise at low speeds <15MPH. I just replaced/lubed all of the u joints on the shaft and expected the noises to go away. They didn't. The only thing I noticed after I drove it around today is that the driveshaft is getting rather hot after about 30 miles of driving, not sure if this is normal or not? The noises go away with the driveshaft out. Any ideas?
  4. yep I'm in the same boat as Mvusse.
  5. not sure on the 87, but the 94 should bolt that double cardan up to a yolk on the TC. They all have done that since at least 1991. Unless stuff has been swapped out. This is why you can use the front DS on the rear with a hack and tap kit. (at least on a cherokee) You can't use a front DS on an MJ with hack and tap because the rear driveshaft is significantly longer than the front. I guess I will just play it by ear when I go down and just hope that I do it right.
  6. Yeah, I know it has a little bit of play making it not a constant velocity joint, such as a Rzeppa and a tripod style CV joint :smart: . However, it is referred to as a CV joint when talking about "CV" driveshafts because it is closer to a CV than a standard single Universal joint would be.
  7. Just went down and looked at it, it looks to be tied into the tranny mount. Mine is shot now and the pipe is rattling against the Xmember. I would have to weld a new post up to put a new hanger there And I don't have a welder.
  8. I want to replace the mount for the exhaust that goes from the CAT to the crossmember. But I don't know what it is called or where to find it. Does anyone know? Once I do get one does anyone know how to replace?
  9. Working on replacing all of my u joints in the front DS. I can't figure out how to get the Double cardan (CV) side joints out. I haven't tried yet, I have only looked at it to try and figure it out since all 4 ends are pressed in on both joints (confused about the side that bolts up because it has the piece that bolts to the yoke on 2 of the 4 ends, I guess those two aren't pressed in but I am not sure how to remove that yoke piece since it locks the joint in). Any advice? hope this makes sense. -James :cheers:
  10. What year XJ did you pull it out of. They should be identical if you got the same year or comparable year range parts (I know that the 84-87ish are one style, the 88-94-96ish are another style, and 97-01s are another style, with some small variations with the buckle adjustment in some years but they had the same buckle design).
  11. james750

    2001 XJ Que's

    Just searching craigslist and found a beautiful 01. Can't afford it but its still fun to look. It had some switches in place of the ashtray that I have never seen before. I looked in the options and it said it had heated front seats. Are those switches for the heated seats. Does that eliminate the ashtray (not a smoker but always liked to put my phone there and loose change) to have the switches for the heated seats there? or does that area still open with the switches still built into the ashtray door?
  12. Dude, if you saw the letters below the link, you should have checked the link at least before clicking on it. IMO you should check where the link goes no matter what if there is any reason it could cause a problem. I don't blame JT at all here. Its not his fault that YOU clicked the link. BTW they must have a motivated computer tech if he caught a bad link in the amount of time it took for you to click the link, realize what it was and exit. :smart:
  13. :clapping: :rotfl2: Oh wait... :no:
  14. Anybody know of a company that makes them for our trucks? I haven't found anything and do not think that there is anything but thought I would check here as well.
  15. I vote to make an insurance claim with his insurance. Take the money from it and buy a certifit cheapo part and spray it red and invest the rest into your MJ.
  16. Since the other persons insurance is covering it use this mentality. The truck is irreplaceable because it is what YOU choose to drive. It cannot be replaced with a different MJ. Therefore it needs to be repaired with all factory parts (No, they don't exist but they should pay out that value). It may be too difficult to do the body work yourself being that there is bed and cab damage so you may have to have a shop do the repair depending on your abilities. I was able to pull $4000 value out of mine when it got hit this way and I was able to fix it for about $1000 and use the rest for a new JCR bumper and pay off some debt. :brows:
  17. I've seen that truck on here before, no doubt. And I know that that guy is a member on here but I can't remember his user name.
  18. Went down and tried it and sure enough, there is an ACC on this truck. I guess that the whole push in the key thing threw me off as I had tried before to turn it down counterclockwise past lock to no avail. I have thought for over a year now since I got the truck that it had no ACC on it even though that all my other XJ's did. :dunce: :doh:
  19. Yeah, I can't remember for sure but I'm pretty sure my 92 XJ (a few years back) had a ACC position just as my 97's and 98 do but my MJ does not, Maybe its because of a newer year? Another notable difference between the columns is the key release is different on the manual (you have to push the button where the autos don't have a button) but that has nothing to do with the steering lock.
  20. You should have the positons: Off (locked), Off (unlocked first click), on, and start. At least that is how it is on my 5 speed. But I don't know about autos as I think they have and ACC(locked) selection below the off (locked) position which IIRC gets rid of the off (unlocked first click) position but I'm not completely sure.
  21. Does it happen on sharp left turns at higher speeds? If so it is Definitely the exhaust hitting the crossmember because of a bad crossmember mount. It may not look like it, but it is a fairly tight squeeze between the exhaust and xmember to begin with, factor it in with a bad mount, and boom, there is your problem. I have this problem with my mj. not trying to hijack, but does anybody know how to change that mount? Do I have to drop the xmember to do it?
  22. We have success! I got a new sanding wheel for the Dremel and a buddy helped me get the edges sanded down to a rectangle. Then I was able to get a 7mm socket on it and it turned a 1/2 turn before rounding off again. Then I was able to get some vice grip type channel locks on there and turn that thing off. SOOO happy that's over with. :D
  23. That might be what I'll have to do. First I'm gonna go down in about a 1/2 hour for round 3. :brows: Hopefully that is successful. All of this for a 5 minute Ujoint install! :roll:
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