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The socket should be a little bit bigger. Do you have a pigtail that "splits" into 2 sockets, or are you still using the single socket? If not, then go raid a XJ out in a junkyard for it. It is a snap to install.

S-10 slipyokes fit, as should the yokes from the T-350, 700r4 and the 4l60. The T-400 uses a bigger yoke, with more splines on it. Oh, and 2 OR 4wd yokes work. You can also use the front D/S if you need to find a driveshaft in a hurry, but you might need to cut it down, depending on the length needed.

The early 2.5 motors normally had a NP 207, which is good, but some of the parts can be hard to find for it. The 4.0 is normally found (except for the really early, like 1987 model) with the NP 231 or 242 X-case. The biggest thing to watch for when swapping the X-cases is the length of the input shaft, and how far it sticks out. This can vary from tranny to tranny, i.e.: just because it was behind a manual tranny, does not guarantee that it will fit properly to your manual tranny. Now, you can swap the input shafts for the one that you need, but again, you have to watch, as the angle that the gears was machined at was also changed periodically.

Yes, they will work but keep in mind that the ride might be a little harsher/stiffer than what you are used to. The 4wd 1/2 ton coils are around 3-31/2" on an XJ.

Okay, this is my '88 Laredo MJ before the make over: And this is during: Doorless is the SHIZZNIT, son. Now, with 6" of lift, and 31s'. WOOT!!! :thumbsup: :banana: I have added a little more to her over the last week, and I will post some 'wheeling shots soon, as I now need to get the rear D/S lengthend.

Well, since my MJ already does the "doorless" thing, I started working on tube doors. The driver side is almost done, and the passanger side should take even less time since I have a better idea of what I am doing here. The nice thing about this that I will now have a closer to permanent drivers' side mirror, so the LEOs' can once again, STEP OFF and leave me alone (again).

Should be okay. I got mine off of the older models, but as we all know, the later doors are shaped the same, so logic says those should be ok.

The rivets are actually normal steel poprivets (1/8th"x1/8th"), and the strip is a piece of steel that is curved just a little to follow the lower part of the door, and the weatherstrip is a piece of rubber, with a small lip on it that is "clamped" between the door and the strip. Oh, and you "can install the weatherstrip without removing the steel strip, but it blows. I just drill the old rivets out, and use new ones. Takes about 5 minutes to do a door.

Hey Hornbrod. The strip does go all the way across, and I was wrong about the number of rivets in the strip. You use the holes all the way across the door. I can't post pix, because for what ever reason, Photobucket is telling me "NO" when I try to transfer, mouseover or whatever you want to call it. :redX: :fs1: :hmm: :wall:

Be advised that the Ford Ranger (little truck) springs are actually shorter than the XJ/MJ, and are stiff as a cealis boner, because of the way that the Ford front axle works. It employs a ratio of 1.5 to 1 to get the Twin Traction Beam design to work. I know some about this mess as I also own a 1984 BroncoII that I am starting to build ( stock XJ springs are the better part of 6" :ack: for the RBVs', but stupid soft, as in you need to run a really stiff shock, or prefably quad shocks to keep the body roll managable, and that is with the sway bar still connected). Oh, and Explorer coils are short too. The Big trucks are your best shot for coils, if your are looking at using the Ford truck coils.

I have them, but I stole my doors from a "Laredo" model. These seem to be found mainly on the upscale models ( Laredo, Limited). They are held on by a small piece of channel that pop-rivets to the door, and the strip is sandwiched between the channel and the door. The holes are allready in your doors for the rivets (3 of them).

You can run the Renix lid, but I would trim the "towers" so that they are not hanging down like they are now. I would trim them to about 3/4" long, so that they siphon oil off of the top of the head, as the factory length does. You can also just run the late 95 and up which has the full length baffle. I am running this style on all of my 4.0s', but run what you have...

"F@#K MDV" -truck has been totaled 4 times, and they are getting tired of me getting it rebuilt.

Those seats ARE from a 2door. Look at the side of the seat right above the side bolster and you will see the fold lever. The only mod to get them to fit the MJ is to use the MJ brackets on the bottom of the seat, as one leg is shorter than the other.

Sunpro is decent for the price.

Figured out that the crossmember is going to have to come down a little bit. Of course, this was AFTER burning in the spring perches fully. :mad: Just wasted $9.17. :grrrr: Going to go and order another set in the AM.

My '88 model has a picture stuck on the back of the cab, behind the carpet piece. Just a thought for looking at for guidance... There is a wingbolt and funny shaped plate that completes the parts to hold everything down, all though if you want all of the pieces, mine had a thick wide black rubber band holding the lugwrench to jack handle, but it crumbled the first time that I tried to remove it. I will look and see if I can find those pieces for you, as my MJ ain't ever going back to even near stock, and the factory jack set-up is worse than useless for me. :brows:

Those help to seal the CAD housing from leaking, and should replaced, esp. if they are coming out when you pull the shafts, as they are apperently shot.

Finished lifting the MJ today, and sure, why not... the rear D/S is about 2 1/2" too short and the front needs to be extended also. I knew this was a possibilty going in, but I didn't expect to end up with 6" :eek: of lift, either, just from a SOA conversion. The Mopar perches are tall, but hopefully the spring packs will settle down soon, and she will come to rest around 4 1/2-5" of lift.I guess that this means that as soon as I get D/Ss' made it is time to head for the woods. :banana: :clapping: Oh, and the new exhuast system is sooo quiet, I can actully drive off from the house with my wife sitting on the front porch, and her not hear me. :brows:

I've been working out of my garage here at the house since back in June. I went to my "job" one day, and after driving for 2 hours to get to the jobsite, I found out that myself and 8 others were now victims of a "Reduction in Force". M@*&^^%$^%ing Corporations. Oh well, at least the house payment and other bills are still covered. Honsetly, I think that the RIF has actually been more helpful, overall, as I NO LONGER answer to a timeclock, some jackweed of a supervisor or have to do the "unsavory" jobs. I now have more time to spend with my family, esp. my kids, go 4wheeling more, and still be able to be around the house, whether I am working on some elses' vehicle, farm equipment, or actually tending to my house/yard. Hang in th3re, and see what kind of skills that you have that might be needed around where you live...you might be surprised at what people can not do that you take for granted as a skill.

The D-44 has always (as a REAR axle) been a NON C-CLIP design, until the latest Bastardization of the Wrongler. The C-Clip D-35 started in late 1990, so a safe bet is that 1991 and later ARE C-clippers. You can tell the NON from the C-clip by looking on the back of the housing flange/backing plate. If you see a flat bar, and NOT a round studhead, then you are looking at a NON C-clip.

The shaft itself should not need replacement, just the bearing and keeper. To change the bearing, use something to cut the lock ring and the bearing off of the shaft. I prefer the use of a Dremel tool and thin cutoff wheels. The new bearing will need to be pressed on, along with the lock ring. As for "how" to pull the axleshaft itself, after you remove the tire and brake drum, You should see a hole in the axle flange. That is for access to the 4 nuts holding the shaft in the housing. I "think" that they are 9/16ths', but they might be different. Oh, and make sure that the new bearing is greased before installing into the housing.

Are you asking about the big window or the little wing window? The big one is easy: remove the door skin, lower the window until you can get to the nut that holds it to the mech. remove the nut, and spring washer (little wavy washer behind the nut), then, up on the front of the door, there are 2 phillips head screws to remove. Next, go back to the lower front part of the door and you will see a hole about 1" diameter. Inside the hole there is a10mm bolt to remove. Pull the weatherstripping off of the door, then tilt the wing window back to allow the main glass to be removed. If you need to pull the wing, do all of the above, then, pull the wing window up/out until you feel it get caught in the frame. If you look inside through the top, you can see how you will need to turn the wing glass frame to finish removal. Install is the reverse, of course.

I never tried aircraft landing lights on my truck, but when I was stationed in VA., I did have the spotlight from a CH-46 for a searchlight, since I was always down in Hatteras during the NON-turtle season, and over in the Great Dismal swamp ALOT. I got the light off our sister squadron when one of their birds crashed. You want to talk about bright....ever seen the brightness of the light on the police choppers? Triple that, easily. :eek: :brows: And, yeah it WAS very hard on the electrical system. MAybe 2-3 minutes on its' own battery. :grrrr:

Yeah it's a nice truck , but my '88 with almost 300,000 on it is more "original" than that one. About the only thing not "original" on mine is the paint and now, the lift and later model nose. Hell, even the SPARE TIRE is original. :eek: