Cabz

Nope I havent done mine yet :cry: But there are two mounting positions you can choose from . The Ba10 xmemeber mounts to the farthest forward holes and the aw4 should mount to the back set, moving the xmemeber

Man , I wished they would keep that #4 stuff down Now everyone is gonna want one. :D

The crossmember looks the same to me , The Uniframe seems to have a spot where you can move the Cmember back some The auto does not use a piolt bearing , just pull your old one and you should be set. The converter has a snub tip on it that sits in the crank end The AW4 has a three plugs/ setup that will run up to the back of the engine area on the pass side , I think the plugs are a 6 wire, a 7 wire and a single wire three plugs in all so you should be able to reach it easy enough don't forget to get the tcase shifter ( or the rods ) from your donor , I know they are diffrent from the Ba10 to ax15 swap. I just can't remeber if it is just the link rods or the whole shifter. Lemme know how it turns out

I do apreciate your help on this , I am not trying to argue at all, One of the things I think we are getting crossed up on is the drivers side main plug near the Brake booster. That is not the plug I am reffering too. I pulled the interior panel and found the TCU I then pulled the gromet out of the firewall and pulled the TCU plug out to the engine bay. the wiring for the TCU goes into a larger harness , that harness has several plugs on the relay side of the engine bay that include the relay plugs coil leads. this end of the wiring also has the trans plugs for the auto trans. If you follow the harness the other way it splits into several parts , One part goes through another gromet and straight to the ECU. The other section goes to the C101 conector just above the brake booster that plug feeds all the injectors and engine sensors. That is what I have yours might or might not have the C101 conector which may be the diffrence in our wiring. All I need to know is where few wires run to and I'm set , I need to know how to setup or wire the power/comfort switch to the power mode . the wiring for that switch on the auto XJ runs seperatly through the inteirior harness Thanks for your help

Yup thats it on that end :D I need to get around to figureing out the other spare wire on the harness end near the ECU. Everyone I know just runs the Power setting on thiers, Thats what I plan on I just do not know what the default is power or comfort.

That is very odd, I have an 88 std MJ I pulled the auto trans wiring from an 88 XJ and the tcu ecu and all the fuel injection is in One harness . It is Not a stand alone harness on mine, I have also checked several other MJ/XJ's and I have not yet seen a stand alone harness. If you happen accross another one lemme know I will take a pick of the spaghetti harness I have it is about 1/3rd of the underhood wiring on the MJ

What year was your MJ? the 88 I have and the parts donor have the same type harness that includes the TCU, ECU and all the FI connections all the way down to the O2 sensor I pulled a trans harness from an 88XJ the trans harness was complete , but the power comfort switch was not wired to the TCU . two of the wires from the switch run through the int/dash harness down near the ECU harness to a three wire plug , What I need to know is what the other two wires are for ( the one extra at the switch and the one extra at the Plug just before the ECU)

anybody :idea: :dunno:

Well I have done some figurin :brows: and I have pulled the secondary harness out of an XJ. I found out there are 3 harness sections under the hood on the XJ/MJ's the secondary harness has all the trans , tcu , ecu and FI conections on it. So it looks like the swap will be a load easier, The only problem I have found is that the power/cpmfort switch is the only part of the auto trans wiring that is built into the interieor part of the harness. it connects to the wiring that goes into the ECU about 6" from itI have found two of the wires from the switch on the dash that go to it . So this may be a lot more doable than I thought. To help the cause , can someone look at a wiring diagram and tell me where the three wires at the Power/comfort switch run to and where the three wires at the ECU conecttion come from ( the three wire plug is seperate from the two Main ecu plugs) more hopefully to follow soon :D

8)

Yeah Rub it in :twisted: :P :D

:shock: Wow thats a sweet one aint it :D

X2 :D

I have an open carrier to go back in it , I oredered a setup install kit and setup bearings for it. Maybe sometime next week I will get it done and be back on the road. I will be saveing the pennies for a lockrite though :D

Well I talked with rustys today, They are sending a free control arm bushing for the one I have bad YEA :evil: The guy I spoke with said the rustys 3.5 and 6" spring are 180lb springs but the 4.5 springs are 150lbers WTF? why is what I want to know He also said that what I should do for now is swap springs from side to side and see if that makes a diffrence. I am going to pull the springs and measure them and if they are diffrent . We are gonna have another talk :twisted:

I tell ya I have never seen an auto trans take the abuses I have seen handed out to an aw4 and still live. I am going over to a freinds yard some time this month and I am going to pull an entire harness , If for no other reason to se if I can make a standalone harnesss for the aw4.

thanks for the offer, But CT is a ways away from FL :D . I have access to about 5 aw4's and 231's Even a few 242's. I am still pondering what to do with it, The ole pukegoat is still haning in for now

I lean back and forth :D I want an aw4 I just don't want the wiring headaches. I have a few other thing to do before a trans / tcase swap . just trying to get my ducks in a row :D

Cool :D I had to shorten the rear 3/4 " when I swapped in the d44 and did the lift and the front sahft is just about done . I would hate to have to the same thing twice.

When I get ready to swap out the ole pukegoat and 231 , will the old drivshafts work with the ax15 and 231?. Or will I have to redo the 2 new shafts I allready have

disconect them from the vac actuator and plug one and put a vac line on the other too , to connect them . This way your 4w4 indicator light will work Thats what I did with my 88 the 91 may have a diffrent vac setup though

I was mistaken the coils are 180lbers but the damn bumper wieghs about 150lbs without a winch , The coils are so compressed that you couldnt get a pinky in between any of them :shock: I did tell them about the bumper I have , they even sell the same one . You would figure they know how heavy it is and would have told me what to do to comensate for the wieght

I tryied to call today ...... they are out til monday. I will be @#$% then.

What ever they sent me :? I think they are 150lb springs? I told them I have a LWB MJ with the warn bumper and that I had a factory skid , So instead of the sway bar drop brackets I needed longer links. They sent the links only no sleeves and no top adaptors ( since they use a YJ style link on everthing )

Well it has been about a month now with the 4.5" rustys front lift and 4" rear packs. The rear packs have finaly settled in and seem to work well The Front however is a diffrent story :evil: I have a warn rockcrawler winch bumper on the front ( damn heavy it is :shock: ) and when I first put the lift on she sat dead level. Well it seems the rear springs have settled about 1" so they are at 4" just as advertised. But the coils are damn near at 3" lift height and the drivers side sits 1" lower than the passenger side WTF :evil: Has anyone else ever seen a coil spring settle/sag that quick? they only have 300 miles on them . also one of the lower controll arms has a bad bushing the bushing is sliding side to side on the inner sleeve ( I was wondering what the banging noise was ......... Now I know). And I have still to get the damn sway bay end link upper adaptor from them ( I don't plan on useing it , it;s just a matter of principal at this point. ) So far the rustys experience is at a 50/50 satisfaction rate , We'll see monday if that goes up or down.