Cabz

I wish I could :evil: it svaed as some goofy type JPG and won't let me do anything with it. it is definatly diffrent than the SWB bar , the rear bars come out more and it's not as sculpted . Also the guy has it in a ranger PU and he said the rear bars bolt in with 4 bolts and the rear paltes are flat down. the MJ'S have three bolts and the plates are angled so they can bolt to the front of the wheel well. I just need a pic to see if maybe they just modded the rear plates, But it don't look good :(

I have someone who says they have a lwb rollbar. The guy sent me pics but they don't look right , can anyone post up or send me a pic of a LWB roll bar PLEASE! :D

WOW that is COOL :!: :D

Not to Hijack the thread but if you do geta mopar cam and lifter kit , you may not want to use the lifters. The reason being that almost everyone I have talked too ( and myself ) have had at least one of the lifters not want to pump up right. I still have a lazy lifter in mine that I need to change.

Not a bad Idea. just don't remove too much it would probably throw off the PCM. But definatly not a bad idea :D

You probably have a bad master cylinder. The replacements for those run around $100.00+ ( don't get the cheap ones ) I just put a Bendix brand MC on mine . If your not leaking any fluid I would suspect that first. Have you tryed bleeding the system? was it ever low? Graspin at the straws I am

Good luck :)

Yup the ole 2.5's have there good points :-D

Thanks :D it was a load O fun :shock: and if my hellish nightmares tale can save just one .................. other person from having the same fit. I'll be happy :-D

For those of you who have had to swap a CPS on a 4.0 MJ/XJ you'll find this frightening :shock: . I drove my MJ to work one day last week and parked it outside my office as usual, just another day( yea right ). When I went to drive to another location the ole girl wouldn't start. :shock: :evil: :evil: well the CPS had taken a dump, No big deal right?. So I get a ride to the local autoparts store and get a brand new CPS , go back to my worksite and procede to swap it out. This being a 5 spd there is a bit more room to play with then the auto trans models. ( and I mean only a BIT more room ) so I start pulling the old one off and I notice that the little plastic sheild that the CPS goes through is rotted and just about gone ( it was gone as soon as I touched it :( ) Getting the new CPS in was a load of fun lemme tell ya :shock: you see as I was putting the new one in with my arm bent in a way that it is not meant to bend that cute little bolt dropped into the clutch . You can just imagine the new curse words I invented ! you see that little plastic cover was there for a reason ( suicide prevention I think ) I did manage to get that bolt out by taking off the starter and lower splash/clutch shield and turning the motor over slowly witha ratchet back and forth a few times and it came out ( But that was pure luck ) So Just in case you have that little sheild and don't think it needs to be reinstalled PLEASE rethink that position, and if you don't have one at all try useing some tape or something to block off most of that large hole so you don't have to go through this little ordeal P.S The CPS I replaced was the factory original 212,340 miles on it with "Renix" Stamped on the back of it .

I found the same thing on my MJ when I swapped engines, I found a 10mm wrench that fit it perfectly . Unfourtunatly that trick with the wrench didnt work for my daughters XJ on her 4.0 swap , The auto trans is a load of fun to get to those bolts on :shock:

Cool :D Now I know what I have to look forward too. First the lift then the trans, I kinda like to plan ahead. The MJ is my DD I can't have the ole girl off the road long . Thanks for the info Pete

Extra ground clearance is a plus :D did that setup give you any fits hooking up the tcase shifter lever?. I thought the YJ would be clocked farther down ( ft driveshaft end ) ? since it has more room to play with than an XJ/MJ.

I was told that the ax15 and tcase from a YJ /TJ have the Tcase "clocked" diffrently than the XJ/MJ's is this true? . If so what is diffrent the trans or tcase? this all came about when a freind of mine put a YJ 231and ax5 in his MJ, he said that the setup from the YJ was clocked diffrently so he couldn't use his crossmember without droping it or modifying it severly.

The best way to get the bellhouseing bolts off is to lower the the crossmember and use a LONG extention for the top bolts. I left the lower two bolts in ,lowered the trans crossmember and got the two up top out first then I pulled the lower two. Those uppers are a sombeatch to get to. I hope your doin the whole nine yards while you in there . haveing to repull all that to do the clutch later will really bite :evil:

I remeber that link but I can't find it. I used these 2 as references, neither states using a pilot bearing with the auto, only removal of the bearing. http://www.thebassetts.us/Jeep/AW4/AW4_files/page0005.htm http://stu-offroad.com/engine/aw4/intro.htm upland No Pilot bearings are used for an auto , the converter has a stub shaft that goes into the crank.

Thats right..................... rub it in.......................... :-D

sweet :D Man I wish I could find a rollbar for mine :(

Pete did you swap in the xj Prop valve or just block off the old line? I had kind hoped that I could tackle this project later after the lift is done and settled. If I wait should I tie the arm in the up position? or just let it flop? . It has actualy been in both positions at diffrent times , I didnt notice any change in brakeing at all.

I am palnning the 4" lift out and was wondering what the best way to lengthen the rear prop vale rod? should I just make a 4" longer rod or can I flip the axle part that it mounts to upside down ( Pin up) to make up some length? was has everyone else done?

A factory rollbar? I didnt think they came in chrome? but I will check. Thanks

It is a longbed . Most of the lifted XJ's I see don't have the rear axles shimed and they seem to be fine, so you think 4* shims for the MJ? any Idea what the optimal pinion angle should be with the lift?

8)

Now that I have the D44 axle I wanted , I need to start plannin the lift. I am going to use the new rustys 4" leafs out back and a good 4.5" kit for the front. My questions are 1. do I need to do a tcase lowering kit on the MJ? 2. do I need to degree shim the rear diff with the 4" lift? 3. are driveshafts going to be an issue ? longer shorter? thanks for any help you can offer

I just got done picken up my MJ D44 / 3.55 gears and factory traclock. it is clean as a whistle :D Now all I need is that elusive factory LWB rollbar .