ROADLESS

Before you start your gauge swap, it is important that the donor vehicle (XJ or MJ) is compatible. 91 and 92 MJ's are all electronic (no speedo cable), therefore the donor vehicle should be a 91-96 XJ or 91-92 MJ. If your MJ is a 87-90 the donor vehicle should be 87-90. Am not sure, but i think the 86 MJ has a different speedo cable than the 87-90 models. :idea:

Kewl! Awe the wonders of the virtual world! :D

Here's a couple sites with decals, not sure how accurate they are: http://www.signspecialist.com/cgi-bin/f ... .cgi/JEEP/ http://www.decalkits.com/cgi-bin/hugede ... lkits/jeep

You might also want to consider a high flow t-stat and t-stat housing from Hescoe. And if you want to get rid of the ugly snake (upper rad hose), Get one for a 99+ XJ. Doing this provides a shorter, more direct path from the t-stat housing to the radiator! 8)

google.

Very kewl, DirtyComanche. Good work layin the floor down, what is it? Looks like 1 1/2 t&g ! 8)

How about 4 XJ's, a MJ, a ZJ, and a partridge in a pear tree :D !

Welcome. Do you have or plan on getting an MJ? :cheers:

Cut mine out too. I also removed the intake silencer/venturi from the airbox. This mod really opens up the airway! http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSilencer.htm :banana:

BTW Pete, I noticed the ComancheClub sticker on JeepsUnlimited. Awesome, totally awesome! Great work!

I agree. Do you happen to know the source (other than comanche4x4) ? 8)

Man, sorry about the accident, am glad you only had a few scrapes, could of been much worse. Also, good call on getting pics right away! What happened, did the Camaro cut in front of you? :eek:

Are you absolutely sure that it is not your trac bar? You mentioned that you tightened the trac bar mounts, but if the mounts are out or round, tightening may not necessarily alleviate the problem. I would loosen up the mounts just a little to check for any out of round 'play'. :idea:

About the only thing i can think of is the ground. Theres also a screw on the back of the gauges circuit board labled 'FU'. Is this another fuel ground, try see if its making good contact. Thats all i can come up with :???: .

When i worked with our parks dept, we would hunt the flying/stinging *#%turds down and kill em. The trick is to get the commercial grade wasp killer with refridgerant in it. The refridgerant freezes em so that buy the time they thawed out they were already dead. :thwak:

The ugly truth of having such a nice MJ stripped. How low can man get :cry: !

You should be able to find a replacement end link at your local boneyard. (this post should have proceeded my earlier post) :cheers:

No. Since i can't remember any pics of this i will try to explain... Two small bolts per cap, the ones on bottom are very easy, just look under your bumper. The other ones are on top (almost straight above the bottom ones), access to these are another story, especially the passenger side one. :headpop: First thing: remove small mud flaps on each side under and behind bumper; then remove the 'tylenol' pill shaped vacuum cannister (passenger side) for better access (two screws on bottom). You should now be able to reach up with a deep walled socket to remove the nuts; before doing this you need to squeez an open end wrench to back up the bolt heads. They are between the bumper cap and the turn signal lamp housing. After removing the bolts you will need to bend and twist the cap to get it out. You will learn a few more 'words of wisdom' by the time your finished! :mad: Thanx to the engineers who designed this!

here's a link i remembered on some inexpensive DIY disconnects. Normally i recommend buying quality discos, such as JKS Quicker Disconnects, but if you need a temporary fix, something like these may work ( at least until you come up with a better solution). http://lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspens ... Discos.htm :idea: In your case, the barrel nuts may have to be welded on to the stripped out end of the sway bar end link.

I'm with Eagle on this one, repair the swaybar! What exactly is stripped: the front mount (where the bushings are)? or the sway bar end links? If its the end links, now would be good time to get yourself a good set of quick diconnects. :redX:

At full flex with stock bump stops, i bet they will rub. :eek:

Glad to here you found the leak and that it wasn't where i thought it was. Should be able to seal it up with caulk or silicone... 8) Cheers!

Yea, its a good idea to look for other points of entry, such as what Pete experienced, cuz if its not coming from a small hole or blocked drain, its more than likely the 'leak from hell' and there are only two ways that i know of to fix it. 1. Involves dropping your steering column, removing just about everything below the dash, and getting the entire dash to hinge away from the cab side firewall, just to gain access! By far the most difficult. 2. Easier way involves removing your wipers and cowl cover and cutting a hole in the cowling itself. here's the best link i have been able to find in order to do this: http://myweb.cableone.net/lreith/XJ_leak/leak.htm BTW, my son and i will be doing #2 on his XJ soon. Hopefully we can do a little cleaner job than the fellar did to his! :cheers:

Those damned mice LOL. As far as the leaking water goes, i would first check the cowl drain to make sure its not plugged. Turn on the hose and run a small trickle of water down the cowl vent (being careful not to get any on the windshileld. Then crawl under near your starter and look for a black drain tube (about 1/2 inch) near the firewall. There should be water coming out of it, if not, clean the drain hose out (i would clean it out anyway). Let me know how this works and whether or not it stops leaking on your carpet. Dan. :banana:

There is another possible, more sinister reason for leak. First need to know a few 'symptoms' as in is your carpet wet and if so is it wet under the carpet? The other area it could be leaking is within the cowling (that would be the more sinister reason) :headpop: .