ROADLESS

One of best improvements for a 4 cyl. would be to replace the OEM type of spark plug wires with some high performance ones. Preferably a set with less than 1,000 ohms of resistance (per foot). You might also consider a new coil (performance one if available) along with new spark plugs.

87manche, Good call on checking the fuel ballast resistor. However, I have to disagree with you on the CPS/spark issue. I believe that he can have spark with a bad CPS. That is why his engine starts (and shortly dies). The CPS is no longer receiving/transmitting the proper amperage to keep it running. Ben-88Comanche, I still believe you have a bad CPS. here's a good link to sensor diagnostics. Page down near the end for CPS diagnostics: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

Sounds like a bad crankshaft position sensor (CPS) to me. Normally I don't condone replacing suspect parts because it can turn out to be a 'hit and miss' game and thusly expensive. However, because this is a common problem, and difficult to test, it's a good idea to have a spare one on hand anyway. The CPS is located on the upper portion of the flywheel cover on the drivers side and yes it is a PITA to R&R :eek: .

There are essentially two ways to do it. A complete conversion (the one that I highly recommend), and a 'budget' conversion which retains most of your original equipment. For the complete version i used Craig's writeup located here: http://www.olypen.com/craigh/rad.htm Craig even includes part #'s :D ! Here is the budget version by Joe Thompson (MADXJ): http://www.madxj.com/ It is under his engine writeup section. I have done both of these on various XJ's and my MJ. IMO the complete conversion is the only way to go. However, if your on a budget and need something 'temporary' then Joe pretty much covers what ya need. Good luck :wrench: !

Did not mean to go off topic, just trying to put some 'outside the box' ideas to help the OP, who seems to want to keep amount of lift down from a SOA setup :???: . When you look at a 'compressed' revolver, it appears shorter (less lift) than a standard MJ shackle. This is only 'theoretical' as I have not run them, but thought it was worth mentioning :hmm: .

Would something like Z-boxes or revolvers work instead of a regular shackle :dunno: ?

Although the 150-160 lb spring rating I mentioned is 'unofficial' I do feel these ratings are pretty close :yes: . I base this on our 88 XJ that has RE coils up front. They are rated at 175lbs (confirmed by RE) and are WAY stiffer than stock springs :brows: ! BTW, our XJ is 4WD with the 4.0L engine.

Anybody ever consider replacing those plastic panels with glass for a more 'custom' look :hmm: ?

86FUBAR IIRC the factory coils are about 150-160 lbs/. Can't remember what the rears are however :dunno: ?

If he has one on his 96 (XJ?) it is probably an after market one. Like i said before, Jeep discontinued the power/comfort switch in models newer than 91 :brows: .

IIRC they quit installing them on the 91+ years. I assume your XJ is newer than a 91 :dunno: ?

lostissues, IIRC the speedometer cables are different between the 84-86 and 87-90's. I believe you will need the upper cable from the donor vehicle (or vice versa) in order to do this swap. here's a link that does a pretty good job of describing the differences and what to do about it: http://www.jeepin.com/features/gaugeswap/ Hope this helps :chillin: !

Most of the calibration involves adjusting the antenna. You will need a SWR meter from Radio Shack ($25 +/-) to do so. here's a good link that describes what is involved to calibrate: http://jeephorizons.com/tech/swr.html It's not that hard, especially if you pick up a SWR meter and follow their steps . Hope this helps.

CW, Is that a 19 DX IV radio and if so how do you like it? The reason i ask is that i picked one up on sale for $32 but haven't mounted or calibrated it yet :dunno: .

I would clean and check your battery ground, and the engine to firewall ground strap. I just threw ours away and put in a heavy duty ground cable in place of the POS weaved one. Bad grounds can contribute to weird little gremlins too. My oil pressure pegged out when i turned another power source on (headlights). After cleaning the firewall ground it no longer malfunctioned :nuts: !

Have you checked your trackbar? There should be no 'play' in it :wrench:

lostissues, The FSM calls it the throttle return spring. You should be able to take the nut off, then remove the outer 'spool' (the thing the spring wraps around), it looks like it is separated in the middle. The trick will be finding a spring that will work. I could not tell for sure by your pic, but it looks like the PO tried to put a thicker and shorter spring on the 'spool'. As you can tell from my pic the OEM spring is thinner and longer. NAPA has a few throttle return spring kits, although they don't specify what vehicles they fit, you may be able to make one work. here's the link: http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... Spring+Kit Any way I guess the trick will be to get the spring to 'hook' on the throttle body at one end and on the throttle adjusting plate (to keep it from spinning) and to tension the spring by rotating it until you get the right pedal 'feel'. Just be careful to leave enough tension for the throttle valve to close. Suffice it to say it will require some trial and error! BTW, thanks for the engine comment. Some new parts, some reconditioned, lots of good ole elbow grease :wrench:

Will these pics work? I don't know what the part is called, it doesn't seem to have a part #, so it is probably part of the TB assembly. You may want to go to your local bone yard for this :dunno: . Drivers side: Passenger side: Hope this helps!

Nice work. Looks like they're in pretty straight. Although I'm not a fan of black (too hot in summer for me) they go well with your interior. Are you going to install a full center console too?

OK, it might not matter now, but it may sometime later and end up costing you another rebuild! How can this happen? Excess silicone (non-anaerobic) that may have been over applied will harden, but remain pliable. Then one day a piece(s) of it breaks off, plugs an oil passage to a bearing and without oil the bearing fails. I have seen this happen more than once :yes: ! That is why anaerobic silicone sealant is your friend. It only cures or sets up within the joint being sealed, where there is no air - hence the term anaerobic. As I stated in my earlier post, any excess (anaerobic) sealant that is 'squeezed out' will remain in a non-pliable 'fluid' state within the t-case and will not clog any passages :brows: . To me, using ordinary silicone is just not worth the risk, especially when anaerobic silicone costs about the same as regular silicone and is usually on the same rack in the store!

As Eagle mentioned, a special 'anaerobic' compound should be used for this type of repair. These type of sealer/gasket materials have certain properties so they 'cure' in the absence of air, and can be used on aluminum, steel, magnesium, and other metals. Another benefit is that any excess sealant that squeezes out into interior of the case will dissolve with the lubricant i.e. transmission fluid and not clog and harm internal components :hmm: ! These are readily available at your local parts house. I know Permatex makes it, just look for 'anaerobic' on the package .

here's a few more tops. I don't know about vinyl, these are canvas: http://www.can-back.com/ http://www.truckcandy.com/index.html http://sports-imports.stores.yahoo.net/ ... arand.html

Or you can get a snazzy after market one from Crane, ARB, Kentrol, etc... They can be a little pricey but are pretty kewl :chillin: ! Checkem out here: http://www.quadratec.com/products/produ ... bmit=Go%21

bhorocks, I hate to burst your bubble, but that looks like a D35 to me!

UNL1MTD / hornbrod: Nice looking rigs 8) ! What brand and size are those rims :dunno: ? They are very sharp looking :thumbsup: .