maddzz1

Here you go #2. Scroll to the bottom of this page: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11834

The slop in the steering may also be caused by a loose trac bar (the bolt/nut on the frame end inside the bracket), you have to pull the cotter pin to tighten it.

Thats not a bad price. I ordered mine from OK4WD.com

It sounds like it could be an O2 sensor since (if i read your post correctly) it runs fine until it warms up. When cold it runs in an open loop mode on a preset set of figures. Once it warms up the ecm starts to get info from the 02 sensor. Might also be a fuel pump problem.

PB Blaster. and let it soak a while.

If you are trying to take the actual fabric cover off of the seat frame and cushion then send a PM to mfpdm. I think he did this to his.

Here is one of the links to the axle chart: http://coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml In the DIY section there is a sticky titled "a list of links for info" that has alot of the good links for common info

Common problem with the dash rocker switches Jim. It's caused by contact corrosion. Next time you have your dash bezel off, pull the switch panels and douche the switches with some good contact cleaner and work them a bit. The indicator lights start to work again, and the switch may actually switch consistently. :cheers: Thanks, Don. I'm sure before the end of summer I will have 90% of the truck apart and I will definately spend some time on the elec connectors.

I also put mine in power mode 2 weeks ago. It took 1 week before the light on the switch came on tho. Either the light is acting strange or it took my tranny along time to switch modes ;)

Yes, the fuel filter is on the driver side frame rail near the rear tire. I believe you are suppose to release the pressure thru the schraeder valve on the fuel rail before you disconnect it. For sparkplugs I have always read to stick with the stock champion plugs or maybe go to the champion truck plugs. I used the stock cheap champions. I also have not been lucky enough to have AC.

But I don't know if I just get longer ones or keep the stock ones and add some to the bottom of the coil bucket. What about the back. I will be keeping it spring under.

I will be putting on some 31x10.5 BFG ATs and probally some black steelies D hole ones

JT, I think you might be able to do that. If I remember right, alot of that hump is to accomodate for the transfer case. Someone on here actually hammered it in a bit to fit seats and I think his was 4WD. I will see if I can find it.

If I am putting a 4.5" lift in my truck what size bump stops should I get? uppers? lowers? Do I also need to add more/longer bumpstops for the rear? also, what can I use for brakelines front and back? I don't want to buy expensive SS lines if I don't have too.

My steering is very loose because of the bad bracket. There is alot of play to one side in my steering wheel. I have to constantly keep moving the wheel back and forth to keep the truck straight. Is this the same problem you have? When I retightened the bolt it felt like a new truck but has since loosened up again.

You can get the frame end bracket from a junkyard for around $25 and it is only 4 bolts to remove and swap it in. There is nothing you can press into the hole. I need to replace mine but since i should be ordering my lift I am just going to wait and get an HD bracket with the new trac bar. I am looking at RE or TNT

I have the same problem. very loose steering and if you pull that cotter pin and tighten that nut in the bracket it will be 100x better. But if the hole in the bracket is elongated (like mine) it will loosen up again. Also, if you don't have a pickle fork, after you remove the cotter pin and nut turn the steering wheel back and forth and the track bar should pop out of the bracket. Thats how I got mine out.

ok. I thought maybe he was :nuts:

:???: :huh???:

I believe he already has add-a-leafs but still wants to add about another 1-1.5" I think there are some chevy shackles you can use to add this much lift. I'm not sure which year or style tho. I'm sure someone on here will chime in with the answer.

You adjust the caster by adjusting the length of the upper/lower control arms right?

There is a fill plug on the side that the rear drive shft goes into. You need to fill it to the the bottom of that hole. I stick my finger in to check the level of the fluid. Make sure you use the top hole to fill it. There is another plug lower down used to drain the case. You need some type of a pump to pump the fluid in. If you use a 2cc syringe to fill it it will take a long time. :doh:

My oldest daughter had one a while back. Now my other daughter has a Sugar Glider. It is actually really cool.

I don't think it is air in the system because I had this problem before on a toyota camry (when driving the heat would blow nice and hot, as soon as stopped, the air would start blowing cold. As soon as I applied the gas again it would go back to hot :???: ) I never did figure out why it did it. :dunno:

:agree: I apologize for the sarcasm, the post just hit me the wrong way on a couple points. One of the things that I really like about this forum is that there isn't much back and forth trash talking, (look on a honda forum yeesh!) I don't want to be viewed as trying to be like one of those people, so I do apologize. Back to the issue, I think the possibility of the temp sender (switch or whatever you want to call it) being bad is probably very likely. I need to check that before I move on to anything else (it's not getting hot now, but I don't want it to not be working and it really get hot.) Can this be checked with an ohmmeter? If you are seriously considering swapping your cluster to gauges then you will need to swap your temp and oil pressure sensor anyway. So rather than buy a new one (i know they arent much), I would put a post in the classifieds for a cluster and just get the new ones for the gauges. Is there a way to test the temp of the coolant in the radiator and in the block to see if they are different temps? The thermostat may be sticking and opening up later than it should allowing the coolant in the engine to reach a higher temp