gogmorgo

Old worn out vehicles parked behind the barn. Clean coolant because they didn't have just whatever was in reach dumped in, despite being old and worn out. It means they'd be less likely to clog up fins that we've now established are actually inside intercoolers, not radiators.

You'll get a lot more Dodge for your money than you will Toyota, that's for sure. Around here that budget only gets you a Taco unless you want a miled-out 2wd Tundra and there aren't many of them either. I kinda like the Dodge trucks in our fleet. Honest trucks that don't pretend to be something they're not, and they get the job done. No particular reliability advantage over the others but much more random stuff fails, I don't think I've changed the same component twice on different trucks. The guys running the Dodges are much harder on the trucks judging by the body damage they collect, and for the most part they keep taking the beatings. It seems like the Dodges accumulate more miles than the others too on crews with multiple brands of trucks so I guess I'm not the only one who likes them. Only thing I don't care for is the dial shifter thing on the half-tons. Our Fords are either blingy or let you know you've got the poverty spec, and if you're the sort of person who does their own wrenching, Ford seems to be actively combating anyone other than dealer mechanics working on them because almost everything I've had to deal with was buried deep under other parts. You also have to like Fords to like them, because all the controls seem to be put somewhere ergonomically dumb, seating positions seem awkwardly upright, etc, and holy hell that door chime is obnoxious. Nothing particularly untoward stands out on the reliability front, although we do see electronic and wiring issues more frequently and the f250s really seem to love eating suspension and steering components. The GMs are somewhere in the middle... not super nice, not awful, without being obnoxious like the Fords or with as much character as the Dodges. Forgettable really. The oldest trucks in the fleet are all Chevs, which might be because we end up with more of them. They seem more prone to the interior coming apart, but they don't seem to have many major issues and nothing that has gone wrong has been particularly memorable because it's usually a pretty straightforward job. Things that fail tend to also fail on other trucks more so than the Fords. The one thing that is memorable is we've encountered a bunch of situations where you order parts and get the wrong ones, not because they were mislabelled or anything but because GM inexplicably and seemingly at random installed a different set of parts on some trucks that aren't compatible with parts from the other set, but with no particular indicating factors as to which set they fit.

People do it all the time. Drive to campsite, unhook boat, park camper, unhook, hook back up to boat to do whatever you're doing with the boat. But yes, the goal is definitely to avoid putting yourself in situations you'd need to reverse the combined unit.

So long as it's properly strapped down and you're not exceeding load ratings or height restrictions, I don't see the DOT having a problem with it, although I can certainly see it attracting attention. But it begs the question, especially in the first instance, why not just a get a fifth wheel trailer you can tow the boat behind?

Yeah. What I was saying is not everyone neglects their cooling systems. Some people do, and they pay the price. Run less tha the proper 50/50 blend, you'll freeze it. Antifreeze is loaded with corrosion inhibitors. Run tap water, junk accumulates and plugs your heater. Poor thermostat or the wrong temp rating... Basically anything that compromises the cooling system will adversely affect your heater.

I was also pointing towards an incorrectly rated or failed open thermostat could be causing warm-up problems. The smog tech should be intelligent enough to know about warmup times, even on older vehicles. But don't start pulling and swapping parts blindly unless you know something has a problem. Replacing good quality functioning OEM parts with aftermarket of unknown quality or suitability for use, and pulling things apart for no reason could cause you more problems. Then since you've touched everything and changed everything you don't know where to look.

Do you know what temperature it's running at? If it's not getting up to operating temp it may not be going into closed loop. Ignition components in poor shape (cap, rotor, plugs, wires) may also be causing incomplete combustion which could appear to be running rich.

Damn that's pretty. I know it was from a friend to a friend and good home, but this is how much $4000 of J10 gets you up here: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/red-deer/1968-jeep-j10/1416851695

I think I've seen a couple attempts at it here. I remember a 90's ranger stepside bed... Didn't seem to quite flow properly but it wasn't awful. I'll see if I can pull it up. I also seem to remember someone who simply removed his rusted-out outer bed skins and built his own square outer skins, that didn't look too bad. Edit: found the ranger. http://s187.photobucket.com/user/bewild2/library/Comanranger?sort=3&page=1 I unfortunately haven't been able to pull up a thread on how exactly it was done, whether it was drop in or not. Seems old links from before the 2012(?) update are no longer functional. Edit 2: I think I found the bed with the outer skins cut off. More photos and maybe info here: https://www.supermotors.net/registry/23580 I found it in this thread that maybe has some other ideas for you: And this thread has some better pics of what the inner bed looks like with the outer skin cut off:

There's a not unreasonable chance their sales/marketing staff have absolutely no clue what goes into a radiator or intercooler, sure. That's not always indicative of the quality of their products, but if you call them on it and they don't admit or refuse to correct, that's a different matter. I suppose we live in very different parts of the world, but around here cooling system problems cause dangerous cold-weather related issues, not just hot weather annoyances. I've dragged semi-abandonned vehicles out of fields that still have clean coolant in them.

That's kinda what it looks like. I can't say I know what radiators normally look like inside, but I imagine like the fins on the outside, they increase the surface area available for heat transfer. You would however need to be careful what coolant you're running to avoid plugging them up.

If it's only dirty that's fine. I just wasn't sure what it might be dirty with, or what condition it's in under the dirt. I'll pm you when I get home from work. 👍

That looks like the one, although I'm not digging what that passenger belt looks like. If it's just dirty that's one thing, but I am hoping for a safe belt for the nephews.

Yeah, I think the title is a typo. The first sentence at the top of the first page of the "88-90" parts manual is: "This publication contains Parts Information for all 1987-90 JEEPS".

Diesel gels at +20°F? good thing no one's told the stuff in our above-ground tanks at work that spent most nights between -20° and -45°F the last month... All the diesels in our fleet have winter fronts on them. The cooling systems are just so effective they just won't stay warm, even if they're parked in a heated space overnight. Block heater, functional thermostat with the appropriate temperature, and functional glow plugs are a must.

https://raybuck.com/?s=Comanche They look to be replacements for the factory seat fabric, not really something you'd want to stick over the seats, I don't think. There was someone on here talking about a company making neoprene seat covers a bunch of years back. King covers or something maybe? I'll see if I can dig something up. Edit: Found it! https://www.wetokole.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=ASCWOH&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Jeep&CpValue=Commanche+&Per_Page=1000 This thread: suggests that you might want to tripple check what you're ordering from them by calling them instead of just blindly buying off the website, whether your bench has the notch in the front, or headrests, etc. This is also in the Vendors forum. May be a dead end but worth looking into as well.

https://xjjeeps.com This is a valuable resource to keep bookmarked.

I can't really see it being a whole heck of a lot. It's a pretty serious case of rot that takes out more than a couple square feet in each footwell, and the transmission tunnel would provide more torsional rigidity than the relatively flat pieces of the footwell. But then again I'm no expert, just someone with a very rudimentary grasp of stress and strain, very minimal experience applying it, and about five years since I've put much thought into something like this. That said however, one of my MJs has no rocker panels left to speak of, some of the pinch seam is even gone out of it on the one side, and it doesn't seem to have any rigidity issues. I've even had it doing 65mph with over 4500lbs behind it. Floors are reasonably solid still somehow, but rockers are going to be more structurally important than the floorpan. I've also had 3000+ lbs behind my xj, and it never seemed to have rigidity issues either, despite having effectively no floor at all, on top of not having much in the way of rockers. But that's not exactly a scientific comparison.

Yeah, the structure of the plastic is probably less of a concern except possibly in the event of a collision, but will definitely be better than not having floors at all. It would probably be fine to use as a replacement to keep water and exhaust out, and keep heat in, etc. If you have to undergo provincial/state safety inspections, it's unlikely the inspector will have good things to say about it. They will tell you the structure is critical, and that it needs to be metal. You'd also be about as well off laying in chicken wire and fiberglass, which would probably run you cheaper.

It also takes a fair bit of current to fire the starter solenoid, as it does have a pretty hefty gear to be shifting, and it needs solid pull to get it engaged. The added relay means you're not running all that current through the ignition switch, NSS (if equipped), etc. The more I've looked at the diagrams on that Zurok.ru site, the less confident I am in them. They may be correct, but they're not always labelled correctly. There's a decent electrical manual on here somewhere, check the DIY master index maybe.

It does look to me as though that's what it is. The function can be achieved with a standard automotive relay, which switches power (supplied to pin 30) between 87 (normally open) and 87a (normally closed). As to why it's set up like that, tough to say, because it seems to be alternating between supplying power and ground to the a/c relay and rad fan. The ground could be something to do with the diagnostic connector, possibly to disperse induced voltages from either the a/c clutch or rad fan (solenoids, motors, collapsing magnetic fields and whatnot), or it could be a sneaky and unorthodox way to prevent the rad fan's temperature switch from also triggering the a/c clutch (unlikely but AMC could be creative sometimes). Changeover relays can also be used for latching, but I don't think that's what's going on here.

I didn't notice the grill, haha. If all they'd done is a quick google or talked to the local Jeep "expert" they'd easily get the impression the transmission is made of glass. Similar to the Dana 35, yeah if you beat on it it'll break but I've also got one outside with 330,000 miles on it. Likely this one's suffered more from neglect than anything else. It would definitely be worth their time to dump the fluid for something fresh.

It's not so much whether or not it can be done, but whether it could provide an acceptable product. https://www.quora.com/Is-it-possible-to-3D-print-sheet-metal The properties that rolling and stamping give to the grain structure of sheet metals, notably the stretching and compressing of the grains together causing incredibly strong bonds between the grains, can't be replicated by 3D printing. Yes you can get excellent results quickly compared to casting or machining, and in many cases the laser sintered part will be sturdier than an identical cast part, but for sheet metal components, 3D printing is really only good for prototyping non-structural parts. There are ways to CNC "stamp" metal, for prototyping structural elements from sheet metal, but it's a highly specialized machine you won't find outside of shops that do a ton of prototyping of complex stamped-steel multi-iteration parts (like an auto manufacturer's design department) and a long process. https://newatlas.com/ford-f3t/28148/ Finding someone with a machine like this sitting idle and willing to assist in a handful of floor pans for a 30-year-old truck would probably be as tough as getting someone capable of stamping them and willing to make the dies to pop out a small batch that could take years to sell. That's not to say it's not worth the effort of trying. And for all you know the original dies might still be sitting in a warehouse somewhere, although that's also a slim likelihood.

That was a pretty recognizable silhouette to me. These guys are a little ridiculous at times, (apparently $6500 with free sponsored parts is "cheap") but some of their real-world comparisons are pretty good, and they do seem to be at least a little respectful of how clean an example they ended up with. I'm looking forward to seeing how well they find it stacks up against the Gladiator. I'm sure we all know the Gladiator will spank the MJ in a lot of categories, simply due to 35 years of progress in the automotive sector, but the massive dimensions allowing for modern passenger comforts definitely will change how the Gladiator performs as a truck.