gogmorgo

I see you've got a free pair of rotors coming to you as well, the next time you need them. Mine also has an outstanding recall for the fuel rail being susceptible to damage during a collision, although Chrysler hasn't seen my MJ since the fall of '91. I think a/c was often a dealer option. Mine's listed on the build sheet ChryCo sent me, though.

Does it crank? You mentioned a no-crank issue above. A dirty neutral safety switch (NSS) lead to an intermittent no-crank on my '91. Starting in neutral usually worked, if not I wound up shorting the solenoid which always did the trick. This won't affect a vehicle's running, though, just whether or not it cranks over. Mostly, though, I'm posting because your sig says you have an "AX-4, 4 spd auto". Which is it? The four-speed automatic transmission is the AW4, and the AX-4 is a four-speed manual. The neutral safety switch is different between the autos and manuals.

I'd like to set up a still as well, try my hand at making rye whiskey. Only difference between that and shine would be rye instead of corn, and aging it a bit. Don't know if I'll have reasonable facilities any time in the near future, though.

Is that just paint on the stock calipers and rotors? Hard to tell on my phone. Looks good, though.

The directions I followed are in the link in my post, but here it is again. Everything you should need to know is there, along with lots of pictures. It's not too bad a job, doesn't require more than basic tools in addition to brake cleaner (or some other kind of degreaser) and dielectric grease. As YXMJ says, it's on the side of the tranny, and doesn't require dropping the pan. I'd say it took me about fifteen minutes, although I had the added bonus of having my tranny out of the truck. As I said before, I also smeared rtv around the case halves when putting it back together. The price is pretty typical. My local parts store quoted me $370 for a new NSS for my AW4. I really couldn't tell you why they're so expensive. There's nothing particularly complex about it, as far as I can tell.

They're pretty easy to change out, but very expensive, and more than likely it just needs a good cleaning. http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neutral-safety-switch-nss/ When I cleaned mine out a couple months ago, I smeared some rtv around the seal to try to keep junk out of it.

Only two bolts won't constrain the pump in all directions, which leads to poorly aligned belts that wear out faster. Seven is probably excessive, though, I'll admit.

I just keep my wrenches sorted out in the cloth roll-up organizer they came in. Some basic sewing skills will make one out of an old pair of jeans. Keeps them from rattling around, too.

Any chance you could put your air/fuel back to what it was before? If I'd have to hazard a guess, the lack of smooth running would have been due to the bad spark plug wires, and not an issue with air/fuel. At any rate, that ratio was working pretty well, and your current air/fuel ratio doesn't seem to be. What does a tune up consist of? In my mind, that's plugs, wires, cap, rotor, filters, and a general inspection of things.

It may be the way you are, and I really don't want to be a fool about this, but the reason English was standardized was to improve clarity of communication. Many of your posts are not clear. It's a struggle, I know, but it would really help help us to help you if your written grammar was a little more standard. The "g" isn't so much a clarity issue as a few other things you do regularly. From your last post "that last time i rebuilt is it was in may" is far from a standard, although more than likely a typo that a simple rereading could have caught. When I post, I reread before I hit "post" and often afterwards, and I'll edit right away if I catch a mistake. A tips that would improve the clarity of your posts substantially would be to avoid run-on sentences. Keep your sentences basic. For example, the sentence Hornbrod quoted: Would be much clearer if you had written it like this: This also brings up another issue, which would be helpful in solving your current issue. So I was able to understand from that sentence that eight months ago your carburetor was rebuilt and it was good. But the did the "eight months of it runnin" come before a rebuilt carb was installed (just now) or are we still talking about the same rebuilding that happened eight months ago? Again, I don't want to be a fool. You seem to be a decent person in need of help, and I'd like to help you. I don't really have the technical expertise to help you with your exact issue, but there are people on this forum who can. Unfortunately, though, they find it frustrating that you can't communicate clearly what issue you're having. For starters, be open with all information. Has anything else changed besides the poor fuel economy? You were looking at adjusting air/fuel ratios and rebuild kits. Did you end up doing anything at all to your carb, or did you just start getting terrible mpg?

If you have everything unplugged, your aw4 should be manually shiftable. Your shifter positions become: P = Park R = Reverse N = Neutral D = 4th 3 = 3rd 2-1= 1st Your tranny would be locked into that gear when the shifter is in that position, and won't shift up or down. It should be driveable, although that first to third (and worse, third to first without a clutch) likely isn't great for anything. Second gear is completely unavailable without the electrics. But at any rate, with the tranny computer unplugged, your transmission should still be grabbing the gears. If it's not, then either there's something wrong with the shifter cable and/or shift linkage, or else internally to the transmission. Are there any gears in particular it's not engaging, or just all of them? Does it leave park? Edit: The Tranny computer and pinout, harness, etc. changed between 1990-1991, so you're not noticing something wrong, just something different.

Out of curiosity, anyone know the diameter of the hinge pins off hand? My google-fu has failed me in that department. Even with state inspections, I don't see why you shouldn't be able to punch out the pins drop in a secure replacement (that happens to be removable) and just not drive on the street without doors. Just be nice to the pins you remove and hang onto them so you can put them back in if they call you on it during an inspection. This is a lower priority, but still on a list of things I'd like to do this summer. I'm also planning in rigging up some kind of mirror to mount to the body half of the upper hinge to keep things completely legal.

Yeah, plywood bed liners aren't all that rare from the period. As a pump jockey in a small rural community, I saw it a lot, particularly among the older generations. Guessing cause it's cheap and anyone with a screwdriver and some patience can something together that looks half-decent. Spray in bed liners weren't particularly common back then, and quite expensive, not to mention unheard of in recent communities until quite recently.

Red Deer is about 400 miles north of Great Falls, MT, about halfway between Calgary and Edmonton. Truck isn't minty and it looks like it's got a small amount of rust, but otherwise it seems to be in pretty decent shape. "One" owner, from estate sale. The guy selling it doesn't really seem to know much about it... it's listed as a "Commando". $2000 Clicky

Disk brakes have the advantage in just about every area except cost. They cool better because the friction surface is completely exposed so they don't fade quite so soon compared to a drum where the friction surface is enclosed. Also, disks have two friction surfaces, so they build up less heat on the friction surfaces to begin with. Also, as Pete mentioned, drums tend to collect moisture and debris which reduces braking effectiveness and increases wear, whereas disks will fling things off to a certain degree. But drums cost less, both in that they cost less to manufacture (and therefor purchase), and in that just about any rear axle you find will already have drums on it. As far as stopping power is concerned, in either case it's a function of the pressure on the friction surfaces. Turning up the pressure is equivalent to pushing the brake pedal harder. The pressure can be increased so either will be just as effective as the other. Disk brakes are less susceptible to brake fade, which is basically your brakes becoming hot enough that the surface is too soft to be able to stop the vehicle as effectively, so it can be said that they can maintain higher stopping power longer than drums, but unless you're driving like you're on a racetrack (you're either at WOT or standing on the brakes), then you likely aren't ever going to need to worry about brake fade. Or if you're going down a really long hill, but you shouldn't be doing that on disk brakes, either.

Cool. This will definitely happen this summer, then! :banana: Pics of the new setup? Any way the studs could be shortened so they don't clip the leaf springs? Also, distorted thread nuts are far superior to nylocks.

Added to my list of to-do's. I know I'm driving a jeep, but the amount of body roll in corners is a little ridiculous. I wouldn't say I have a particularly heavy foot, but I have been known to go around corners a little faster than most people normally would, and a little more stability would be nice. Couple questions, though. Do you know of any ubolt/bracket setup that would fit the smaller D35 tube? Also, is there any danger of the end links punching the leaf springs on compression?

Judging by the pics they have, not only are those plastic panels expensive, I'm pretty sure they'd interfere with the MJ's parking brake setup. The stock panel on the driver's side has a cutout to accommodate it, or at least the panel on my truck does.

If you swap in another flasher relay, you might get a louder one. If your hazard lights click louder, you can just swap the flasher for the hazards with the one for the turn signals.

I'd also point out that the aftermarket header panels don't fit as well as they should, meaning the factory ones are in demand. Not to mention most collisions involve the front end of the vehicle.

Yeah, the long manifold tends to crack pretty badly. If you were to weld it up, it would likely just crack again right next to the weld. If you're doing anything with the rest of the exhaust, it wouldn't hurt to throw in a section of flex pipe to prevent the new manifold from cracking, but it'll likely be fine by without it. I've looked into this, as my exhaust isn't worth much even to a scrap metal recycler any more, and I think I remember at least one aftermarket manifold that had what looked like flex segments within the manifold itself.

By more frequently, do you mean it's shifting all the way up into 4th as quickly as it can, or shifting back and forth between gears? If your torque converter is locking/unlocking repeatedly at random, it could seem like your truck is shifting up and down, as well. We don't know what the truck was like before, and we don't know what the truck is like now... It should kick down almost immediately when you go to around 3/4 throttle, maybe twice if you push it down most of the way to the floor. Cruiser has far more experience than I do. He may be onto something. I didn't even know that brake pedal switch existed. Also, the power light is only controlled by the switch position. You can unplug the shift computer and the light will still come on. In power mode, however, it should be shifting at a noticeably higher rpm and kicking down sooner, around 2500rpm and 1/2 throttle, iirc.

Yes. The doors won't line up the same way as they used to, and will have more degrees of freedom for bouncing up and down as you're driving. The door seals by having a rubber hose smashed between the door and frame, so any movement between the door and the rubber will reduce the effectiveness of the seal. If the door isn't sitting where it should be, then the seal won't work properly either. I don't imagine it'll be that much of an issue in rain, or anything like that. My concern is mostly having frosty breezes flowing through my cab rather than around it in the winter. The 97+ hinges aren't the same animal as the 97-down, but I'll look into that. I was thinking of just knocking out the stock pins and replacing with quick pins of the right diameter (maybe turning out some delrin bushings if needed) or straight up bolts. pre-97: 97+

Not sure what you mean by that. If it changed anything, it would have been because it was out of adjustment before, and your shift points will change to what they should be as a result of the proper adjustment. You may also be noticing differences in where the torque converter locks/unlocks. Did it do anything other than change the shift points? What exactly is your issue, now? Does it shift normally when accelerating or decelerating? Is it downshifting normally under brisk acceleration? Does it stay in the same gear at constant speeds? Does it stay in gear at all? If it's just popping back and forth between gears at ~30mph in traffic, I think that's just because it's bouncing off the bottom end of what 4th gear can do. Mine does that too. A little slower and it stays in 3rd, a little faster it stays in 4th.