gogmorgo

Over the rail. It's the factory liner with "Jeep" molded into it, not Duraliner or other. Come to think of it, there were some clips, but they weren't doing much and there were holes drilled in the liner at the clips, so I assumed they were for a topper.

UHaul goes by Jeep's MJ weights, which are a bit... optimistic. I know for a fact that my lwb MJ weighs more than the dolly's max load rating in the literature they gave me, but the dolly took it fine. I suppose that's safety factors are for...

And aren't you going to need to replace your tranny anyhow whenever you get around to converting to 4x4?

Huh. My factory liner wasn't clipped in. Just taped in with double-sided foam tape. It was pretty well sealed, too. The bed floor was near mint except at the tailgate end.

Good you caught this as soon as you did. Like I said above, it was baaaad when it happened to me... And ultimately cost me significantly more than $61.

A transmission is cheaper and much easier to change than a motor... But then you're probably pretty good at pulling motors by now... Also you can usually limp home with a bad tranny. It takes a special kind of person to drive with a rod waving hello.

Pretty well everything from the doors forward is identical to a 4-door Cherokee. The fuse panel from an XJ included. I'm also reasonably certain that the fuse panels are all the same between pre-'97 XJ's, but you might want to confirm that. As far as getting a new fuse panel, I don't know if they're still in production. Shop around... Team Cherokee often has OEM XJ parts. I also think there's a recent thread (maybe in the diy section?) about refurbishing a used fuse panel.

Yeah, Iceland is on my list of vacation places.

Nope. It's a breather, allowing expanding air out as the tranny heats up, and then back in again as it cools down. If you do a lot of water crossing, you may want to extend it as far as you can.

Formula Offroad. It's just so ridiculous.

Beaver DAMage... Hope you get it sorted and back on the trails soon. Having an MJ you can't drive sucks. :(

I dropped my tank when it was half full... then when I put it back I gave up after a half hour or so of swearing and drained it. Mind you, I had no help, it was around midnight on Christmas Day, and I was lying on my back on a concrete floor at -5°F. I just didn't have enough hands to hold the tank in the air and keep it level AND put the straps on with that much gas sloshing around. But with a half tank of gas, you should be fine to pull the pump/sender assembly. It does sit in the side of the tank, but it's the top half. And with a helper I don't see how you shouldn't be able to lift the tank back in place.

If you're using the flexplate for an '88, it won't work with the '91. You need one that matches the electronics, so if you've got the HO computer and everything for a '91, use a flexplate for a '91, but if you're running Renix electronics, you'll need the Renix flexplate. Another member on here a long while ago was having issues with new flexplates not having windows in the correct spots, but I don't remember if it was for Renix or HO. I replaced my cracked flexplate in March with a cheap one from RockAuto that worked perfectly in my '91. It might not do you much good if the motor's never been started, but have you tried checking for codes?

(Ontario)

They look a lot like the guards off an '80's GM truck or van.

:peek: If you need a locker to get to the muff, maybe you should find another woman... :teehee:

I'm also confused about only running one UCA in an otherwise completely stock setup. I'd expect serious loss of caster control on whichever side is going without. You might get away with it for off-road use, but it'll be pretty sketchy on the road.

Here's the how-to I followed, but I don't have a pic of my own work. I never got around to properly mounting them somewhere, I just left them tucked down beside the battery. I also don't have the Putco harness, so mine was all red, green, and black, but I just tucked it into some split loom (cheapish at Princess Auto) so it wasn't obvious. http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm Editing to correct a broken link: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm

I'm no expert, but the two things affected by the spline count are the axle shaft itself and the spider gears. The Aussie locker replaces the spider gears in the differential, so you'd just need the axle shafts. I would expect you'd also need new wheel bearings and seals to make it work with the larger shafts, as well.

There's a Kingston in California? :teehee: I've been refusing to post in this thread due to the grammatically obscene title.

Heh, I remember that one. It was... weird. They were definitely trying to glorify the bush fixes. First and hopefully last time I ever see a Jeep with a wheel tied on, or sliding along on a log.

The only reason the Fiero made it past the bean counters to production was because they put it together using a hodge-podge of economy car parts. And then people had trouble with them because they tried to use them as what they were supposed to be, not what they actually were... cobbled together economy cars. It wasn't until the bean counters acknowledged that the car was actually selling that they bothered to build it the way it was supposed to be. A buddy of mine picked up a Fiero for $500 out of someone's back yard, and dropped in a 3.4 out of an Alero. It's a pretty decent car now. With the old Iron Duke's 4500rpm redline, not so much.

They've been looking at doing a mid-engined 'Vette for longer than I've been alive... But it was too "unAmerican". The mid-engined C8 won't replace the C7, but it'll sit along side it as a halo car. I don't see GM ditching the front engine any time soon.

I should also add that the running issues I experienced definitely increased in frequency. I was daily driving my MJ for about two months after first noticing the sound before diagnosing it, and continued dailying it for another five months before I finally had the time to put my daily driver (and then only vehicle) out of service for a couple days. I don't think the flexplate was in two pieces yet when I first saw the crack, and it was about two months after I saw it that I remember the first major issue I can attribute to it. Also, I'm reasonably confident my flexplate was cracked because I (and probably previous owners) put a decent chunk of mileage on it without the bellhousing properly bolted to the engine. The two were properly secured about three months before I started noticing the flexplate sound. That partial separation caused a bunch of other problems as well, and lead to excessive crank journal and thrust bearing wear, and ultimately the death of the motor about three months after I changed the flexplate... At least one of the forum posts I've seen about cracked flexplates attribute them to misalignment due to foreign objects trapped between the bellhousing and engine block. Imagine what no fixed alignment whatsoever will do...