gogmorgo

Well that's one word for it... But hey, at least I admitted I might have problems! :dunno:

Short answer, yes. Not technically mechanical, cause mine's an HO, but I understand it's the same as the Renix mechanical speedo. But yeah, the electronic-over-mechanical or whatever the setup is in my '91 swapped directly into my '93 242's 100% electronic setup's hole. The non-vacuum 4x4 light switch also wired itself pretty easily into my cad-equipped MJ. But I've got a one-piece shaft in my cad housing so not having the vacuum isn't a big deal.

If I had to have a logical reason for all the irrational things I did, my life would be much less exciting. So for the same reason as my refusal to use a device without a 30-pin connector, I'm going to refuse to say why. :D If it helps, you're talking to a guy who enjoys driving his Lada. :thumbsup:

I was using a few 3rd-party browsers on my iPhone 4, but over the last year or so most of them have become so unstable as to be useless. I didn't have Firefox but just tried downloading it and it's not going to run on iOS7. (Maybe that's a hint as to my problem...) But I refuse to upgrade to a device without a 30-pin connector. (Perhaps I have many problems...) So there's that. It just seems like every time I encounter something frustrating with images on the forum, photobucket is somehow a key factor. I don't know why everyone keeps using them, when there are so many other more stable, more reliable, and more user-friendly hosts out there. But I guess people will use what they know.

I post almost exclusively from my phone. Not sure how it's relevant to anything, but sure. There were three tank sizes, 16- and 23-gal for the long beds and 18-gal for the short. In '91 they discontinued the 16-gal, but it's a 24-year old truck so who knows what's happened. How much it takes to fill is inversely proportional to how much fuel is left in the tank. As to trusting the gauge, it's 24 years old... Would you have 100% faith in anything else that old? I'm also not sure what whoever determined the capacity took for a "full" mark. I once put 25 gallons into my 23-gal tank...

That's funny. But only in my mind because rust is often referred to as "cancer", and when Monty Python attempted to use "cancer" in a sketch got censored and had to dub "gangrene" over it, and did so as obviously as possible.

All that work to get it imported and registered properly, and now he's getting rid of it?

Not a huge deal, just a little frustrating. It's also pretty standard for mobile sites not to have zoom capabilities. What I'm referring to is being able to use gestures on my smartphone's touch screen to zoom in and out. Pinching/pushing together to zoom out and pushing apart to zoom in. I can do that on the full site, but not the mobile one. Mostly I want to do this to zoom in on photos. The frustration largely comes from the fact that most of you guys are inexplicably using the frustration that is photobucket. My usual workaround is to save the pic onto my phone and open it separately, but photobucket doesn't seem to allow that. My next workaround is to open the image file directly in my browser, which doesn't help cause photobucket makes you use their site and image viewer, but that site won't allow me to zoom, so that doesn't work either. If something can be done about it, I'd sure appreciate it, but I mostly just posted this to vent... Having a frustrating morning at work cause my computer account expired and our IT guy got dispatched to do some work for remote sites up in north sask so he's basically unreachable. But that has nothing to do with you guys.

It's not "exhaust" so much. It just lets air in and out as it expands and contracts when the trans and tcase heat up and cool down. Running them up that high prevents water from getting in, allowing greater fording depth.

What part numbers did they pull up? Also, is the axle original to the MJ?

Yeah, it's a pretty basic relay harness. You can complicate it as much as you want but why add cost and complexity if you don't have to? My research (i.e. 30 seconds with google) indicated the 10awg should be good for ~50A, so around 600W @12V. I was initially going to go with 8awg for the main power wires, but the significant jump in cost from 10awg wasn't worth it to me when I already knew the 10awg was overkill. Can't fathom ever exceeding 200W bulbs, as I'm pretty sure you'd be cooking the buckets at that point, and frankly that's pretty unreasonable for a focused lamp... you'd be blinding yourself let alone oncoming traffic.

That's what they all say. The frobt passenger side fender has a pretty good crunch in it, sorry to say. It's the only significant body damage on the vehicle. Don't know if it's super obvious in that photo but it's the only one I've got. You can see where the paint came off the flare in the top rear corner of the wheel well, at least.

No worries. Just means I won't need to track down another panel. Figured I should ask before spraying it black when someone wanted one in that colour. I've always figured the snaps belong to a factory winter front, if such a thing ever existed. My MJ had them too, as does a co-worker who bought his '96 XJ brand new... He still has and uses the cover. I've also got the green doors and hood off the XJ still in the yard, although they're in about the same shape as the header. Few scratches and dings, with rust starting along the edges. You likely won't want but figured I should offer anyhow. The doors have power windows. Mostly just making sure nothing on it goes to waste. I've been instructed by my landlords to have the XJ removed from the property, so now's the time to speak up if you do want something harder to find. I got it pretty well complete and still have most of it.

I once had someone ask what I'd sell it for. I said $10,000. Truth is I'm not sure I'd even sell if for that, but I was kinda frustrated with it at the time. His counter-offer was $1500. I laughed and walked away.

Seems like every time you post that it gets more complex... What do the lights have to do with it?

I'll apologize in advance for the quality of the lighting in my basement. Paint code PG5, hunter green metallic. The panel isn't mint, couple chips along the edges, paint scratches, etc. I also can't guarantee they're original. The upper rad support has black primer and a sticker with a mfg date of iirc 2001 which tells me the tiny end was put back together at some point, but back when factory parts should still have been available. As to not being local, I've found myself in Regina four times so far this year. Don't know for a fact I'll be there again before August, but I wasn't expecting to be there last weekend as of Thursday at 10am and I was there by Thursday night, so you never know. I'm also still sitting on an extra pair of tail lights I pulled with you in mind a long while ago which could still find their way to you if you want them (and/or if I can find them... They may have been stashed at my parents'?)

Imgur.com Just sayin

We just picked up a trio of Colorado's at work. The one I drove home was a base model. 4-cyl extended can. Weird set of options on it... Power seats and windows but you have to roll the window down to adjust the mirror. But yes, I was less than impressed with performance vs mpg. On the sixty-mile all-highway trip home I averaged the same as I average mostly around town with my 2016 Ram 1500 Ecodiesel work truck, and unlike the Ecodiesel, the Colorado felt absolutely gutless (and that's coming from someone who drives a Lada) I'm curious about the 2.8L Duramax, though. A friend just ordered one, and it gets pretty good reviews. The Taco just got a major update, and was named 4x4 of the year by Peterson's 4-wheel mag. Incidentally the diesel Colorado Z71 came in a very close second. Like I said about the Titan, lots of people saying it looks like the F150 but Nissan denies using it as inspiration, and I have yet to see anything about Ford having anything to do with the design. But either way I'm not sure how it's relevant to a discussion on mid-size trucks. Personally I'll be happy with a Renegade pick-up so long as it comes with a 7ft bed, 1400 lb payload capacity, and a 5000lb towing capacity. I'm not convinced it'll happen though...

:thumbsup:

You never know who's reading this. :dunno:

After you've ascertained the bulbs aren't just burnt out...

This is a crude wiring diagram I put together based on the how-to above. I had trouble wrapping my head around his instructions until I sat down and worked this out. http://i.imgur.com/LiQd7xu.png The wire gauges are overkill for the factory ~60W bulbs by a factor of about triple, but I figured it would let me significantly upgrade the bulbs later. Except after doing the upgrade I decided I didn't really need anything more than factory. It also made me feel better about using relays rated for 30amps which will handle 300 W at 12V. I'm also confident that the 14awg is waaaay overkill just to trigger relays but I had a bunch sitting around already. Using AR274 relays as recommended in the write-up and running separate 12V feed wires from the battery for each relay will eliminate the need for three-way splicing. The above configuration should allow for running 90W/bulb, maintaining the 15 amp fuses as the weak links. 25A fuses would allow for 150W/bulb, and in theory a 30A fuse would allow for 180W/bulb but you'd also want to upgrade the relays at that point so you're not fusing at the maximum recommended load on any given component, which is what the relay harness is trying to avoid in the first place. Editing to update the now broken URL to Go Jeep’s write up: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm

http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neutral-safety-switch-nss/ That's the link to the write-up I followed when I did mine a couple years ago. Before putting mine back together after packing it full of dielectric grease, I ran a bead of silicon around the edge to keep it sealed a bit better. In MJ/XJ's the automatic behind the 4.0 was always an AW4. There were some differences over the years, though, although they mostly coincide with major vehicle updates, i.e. Renix to OBD1 to OBD2, with some minor differences between those years. But the NSS cleaning applies to all of them. It's also quite economical to clean the NSS instead of replacing it. 99.9% of the time that's all it needs, and they're usually around $200 to replace.

Obviously that's not a helpful suggestion. Trying to avoid going that route, and obviously it's an option, and I already have a spare D30 kicking around. It's definitely going to be less expensive to find one already put together than to buy new gears and pay someone else. And frankly, the gears won't be any worse off than my original 300,000 mile D30. I'm in no hurry to get it so figured it was worth a shot if someone else had one. Obviously you don't have what I'm looking for so you probably shouldn't be responding to wanted ads...

K. Wasn't sure if they were black or not cause they're so faded. Looks like that truck's been sitting in the sun its entire life.