gogmorgo

There's still something screwy with the passenger side taillight in the above photos, missing a couple body lines or something.

Yeah, lots of empty channels up here so that's what I do, but still occasionally get the odd squawk from something random if I crest a hill or something. I don't remember there even being enough room in there to get crimpers on the pins, even if I had crimpers that went that small, but I'm not going to pull it apart to do anything unless I end up in there for something else. But I will keep it in mind, if I ever stumble across some d-sub terminals by chance... I'm not aware of anywhere I could even get some within 200 miles.

I didn't want to risk unsoldering anything when I did mine, so I just twisted and taped the aux cable's wires around the pins. Works well enough, but after nearly a year I think I'm noticing an increase in fuzz, so something more permanent is probably in order. Any solution to the radio bleed-through yet?

No. You'll dent the hood and roof. No jumping on MJ's.

That RedTek R12a stuff is great. It's been sold up here for years. Mostly just propane in the can I think, but I've restored more than a couple R12 systems with it, even one that hadn't worked for over ten years.

Yeah, it's not a super huge effect, given how little engine oil actually makes it's way into the exhaust on a good-running engine, but it is part of the reason most motor oils have moved to reduced zddp.

Fun fact, the nuts for the motor mount bolts screw onto the head studs and are perfect for securing a chain to the engine.

With that kind of mileage you'll probably want to switch to a higher weight oil than a 10w30. I'm not hugely familiar with Jersey's climate, but I'm not quite convinced it gets cold enough for you to need to run a 5W but you never know. So like, 10w40. But ymmv. This just came out. It's a bit interesting, and illustrates why I choose to run synthetic in the winter. The test/demonstration at the end could be a little misleading, especially since there's no mention of how much use either of the oils got, and also they do compare different weights of oils in stead of direct comparison between synthetic and conventional.

Don't know why you guys are running 5w40 so far south... The last couple years I've been running synthetic 5w40 in the winter and conventional 15w40 in the summer. Diesel oil, whatever's on sale. Although those of you still running cats, the higher zinc content of diesel oils isn't good for them in the long term.

Until you put up some numbers no one's going to believe you actually have tested your fuel pressure. We're just trying to help you solve your issue, but we can't help you unless you help us. You're talking to a whole bunch of incredibly helpful people with years of experience who know these trucks inside and out, but they will rapidly lose interest in helping you if you continue to ignore their suggestions or requests for more information. Pretty sure I could spit fuel all the way across your engine bay with just my mouth. At absolute most human lungs put out like 3psi. Just saying.

I also don't mean to be rude, but when this is your only description of having "great fuel pressure" it doesn't exactly inspire confidence in your testing procedure.

You don't know you have great fuel pressure unless you've measured it with a gauge. Rent one for free at your preferred parts chain. I believe on a Renix the injectors get their signal from the sync sensor in the distributor, but the computer can recognize the failed sync sensor and will compensate so in most cases a failed sync sensor isn't noticeable. Rent the fuel gauge.

I should also have clarified that my plan for the 4.10's was to match them with 32 or 33" tires. But you'll know I have to try them out with the 235/75/15's when it eventually happens. :thumbsup:

You would probably be better off in stop and go traffic with the lower gears, at least in my mind. More torque to the wheels means the engine isn't working as hard and hopefully that leads to better mpg. But I won't profess to be an expert. Only the 4-banger KJ's came with 4.10's, the rest were 3.73's. I'd have to measure and haven't done that, but comparing the two my 8.25 looks like the pinion's maybe an inch longer than the d35's so that might cause a problem with the driveshaft length. All I'm suggesting with the replacement axle vs the rebuild is that rebuilding with a regear is going to cost you a significant amount more than a good used axle would. My guess is it would be much more than getting your driveshaft shortened. A small lift would also be a way to get around the need for a shorter driveshaft. While the D35 isn't necessarily a toothpick (I have no reason to suspect mine isn't original with 315,000 miles on it) it's still not really worth throwing money at it.

Allpar.com has some decent info, including some comments from engineers who worked for Jeep back when the MJ was still in production. I have a '91 so I may be biased, but it seems a lot less complicated to diagnose faults than the Renix Jeeps. I also have an appreciation for it not having to retune itself every single time it's turned on. The difference in hp isn't really going to be noticeable on the butt-dyno, but most 25-year-old trucks aren't going to be making the factory figures any more anyhow. I'd say more important than anything else would be finding a truck with a body in great shape. Almost all the mechanical parts are interchangeable with the XJ and so are pretty readily available, but MJ-specific body parts will have you doing some serious junkyard diving.

I realize that now. Maybe if you shed some light on what you were planning people would be more willing to participate? I'm not trying to be unhelpful or prying or anything, but I imagine I'm not the only one with the same reaction to seeing at first what looks like a request for a bunch of info that is already available.

Unless you're really 100% sold on keeping a 100% original truck (which I'm guessing you aren't if you're considering regearing), it's probably best to not throw money at the Turdy5 and upgrade the axle. Lots of people have swapped in Ford 8.8's because they're super common, I personally have a low-mile C8.25 out of an '03 Liberty 4-cyl waiting to go in, which I chose because of 4.10's, rear disc brakes, and a much closer width to the original than the 8.8's... every inch counts!

http://comancheclub.com/topic/39751-comanche-specs/ All of the measurements have been posted before, probably several times, but the highlights of that post: Rear Axles AMC-20 - 29 Spline, one piece axle shafts, 8.875" Ring Gear; Metric Tonne axle in 86. Dana 35 non c-clip - 27 spline, 1.18" diameter shafts, 7.58" ring gear, 2.62" axle tube - used 86-89 Dana 35 c-clip - 27 spline, 1.18" diameter shafts, 7.58" ring gear, 2.62" axle tube - used 89-92 Dana 44 non c-clip - 30 spline, 1.31" diameter shafts, 8.5" ring gear, 2.75" axle tube - used 87-89 on some, (not all) MJs equipped with towing package.

Tstats don't keep the engine cool, they keep it warm, by closing and blocking the coolant flow. If it's stuck shut it'll cause problems, but in a warm climate you may not notice it sticking open as bad as I would, cause here in the winter, a stuck open tstat means no heat in the coolant so your heater will never blow hot.

What thermostat are you running? If it's the stock one, sounds like it's stuck open if it's not warming up all the way.

Mine wanders up and down with that being about the highest it goes, and the low end of the wander just a hair below straight up. The wandering is unrelated to the thermostat opening, aux fan kicking on, a/c coming on, exterior temp, vehicle speed, or engine speed. For unrelated reasons, I've changed every single part of the cooling system (even the engine), some parts more than once (eg using the "new" engine's water pump cause I'm lazy instead if the nearly-new one off the old engine) except for the heater core, and the gauge, sender, and their wiring. It still does it. I've read it can be an early symptom of a failing sender, but it's become no worse in 4 years and 25,000 miles, and it's not bothering me, so I haven't bothered to swap it out.

The heater box is different between the full and mini consoles. The full console has ducts that direct air towards the rear of the seats, and the mini console doesn't, so where the full console's ducts interface with the heater box is different.

Yup. 4.0's (and most I6's) are pretty big lumps of cast iron. Either way though, factory MJ weight distribution is like 65/35 f/r like most other trucks, so you really wouldn't notice much difference.

Get a flowmaster... I live in a national park and almost never see any wildlife from my MJ. At least it was only a small deer and didn't cone through the windshield. And your insurance covers you. If it was me they'd write the truck off, cut me a check for $100, and tell me where to shove it. Insurance from the Crown is a mixed blessing.

I believe the suggestion was to take the driveshaft out to attempt to establish where the play is, whether at the trans/tcase output or at the axle. However, if the driveshaft is turning and the wheels aren't, when you're shifting from drive to reverse, then I think it makes a pretty strong case for the play to be in the rear end. If it were me, I'd keep driving it for now, but I'd start looking for a spare axle to replace it with before it breaks. Go for something better than a D35.