robfg67

Pete, when you say "suck out the gas through the return line" would it be correct to remove the hose clamp from the smaller line at the back of the fill and push a 3/8" line through the black return hose into the tank?

This will sell for north of $20k on BaT easily. Don't waste your time on eBay.

It's in nice condition, but not $13,500 nice. Not sure why these sellers list so few pictures...lazy.

@Eagle_SX4, that might very well be. I used the blue Fel-Pro gasket and waited 3 days for the gasket sealer at the ends to cure before I refilled the oil and drove her. I'll check it more closely in the spring.

Pete, I'm not expecting the oil change to resolve the issue, but hopefully slow it down and I'll redo it in the spring. Motorhead X, yes, I'm sure that I got the correct RMS. Not sure how this happened. I did a ton of research, including watching many different videos, and then took my time doing it over a couple of weeks. Weird how it held for at least two weeks and then started dripping.

Thanks for your input. Do you add a zinc additive? If so, which one?

I replaced my RMS a while back and there were no drips for 2-3 weeks, then it started leaking at a rate worse than before. Scanning other Jeep internet forums, some guys have had success is slowing/stopping the drips by changing to conventional high mileage oil. I'm currently running Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. Any thoughts on this and should I change from 10w30 to a different weight? Although garaged, I live in the northeast, so it will have some cold temperature starts.

Is jpnjim MJ from the 2011 thread on 37's original factory color yellow? If so, could it be one of the Pennzoil Giveaway MJ's?

Or, try reaching out to member Kkilmer87 from Maine. He has a ton of MJ parts.

Huh, you would think that the design would only allow it to be connected in only one direction. Good catch.

Yeah, they fit correctly when they're put on the right side of the wheel well.

Thanks for your help with "They go behind the wheel well not in front" Fiatslug87. I was futzing around inside the wheel well and that doesn't work.

A picture of the bracket in place would help.

I have the instructions, but I don't see how the bracket can sit against the fender well and keep the splash guard at the correct right angle behind the tire?

I just picked up a pair of factory rear splash guards from a fellow member and I have a question for those of you who have them. Does the rubber inner fender wall splash guard (boot shaped, see picture) have to be removed in order to install the splash guard? I can't seem to get the splash guard to fit with that piece in place.

I completed this job on Sunday afternoon. What a bear of a job-from start to finish. I did this job before about 15 years ago and I didn't remember it being so difficult, but it is what it is. I only have 33k original miles on the truck, but both ends of the RMS gasket were hard as a brick. So 34 years and probably some significant periods of sitting did them in. I warmed the engine up in the driveway, drove it for about 4 miles (back roads) and then drove it again Monday night and no leaks, so I think it was a successful outcome. Thanks to all who chimed in here with help/advise.

Got the pan out today. The tool that I bought was close to useless. I used a torch to soften the rtv and then pounded several stubby flat head screwdrivers in the gap and it pulled off fairly easily. Now, getting the old crusty rtv off is a bear.

What a brutal job it is when the pan is attached with RTV. I'll have this tool on Monday night, so I'll report back after that. There is not a lot of space to swing a hammer, so I'm hoping this tool will be the one. I thought about using a Dremel cutting wheel-a thin one, but I'm too afraid of damaging the bottom of the engine.

And full droop it is. Was the oil pan sealant from the factory RTV or a gasket? Mine has RTV and I cannot for my life get the pan detached. I looked on YouTube and found a guy who recommended the Lisle 50210 Gasket Separator. I ordered it from Amazon, so this project is on hold for a couple days. Anyone used it before?

Thanks for all the helpful responses. After work today, I started this project by draining the oil and pulling the starter. I have another question before I drop the oil pan. My MJ has a Rusty's 4" lift and the factory front skid plate. Do I need to pull the front wheels and jack up the MJ by the frame to let the suspension to droop to get the pan out? It looks tight, but possible without that step.

It's $13,500 on their website.

I've purchased from him before he had the stickers. Good guy with good stuff.

The 4.0L with the AW4.

Can someone recommend a good video that details this job? I've seen a few and they all seem to differ slightly on where and how to apply RTV to the seal area. I just want to do it right. And, yes, the back of the valve cover and the oil filter housing are both dry. Thanks

Cool, let me know.