CWLONGSHOT

Just snagging the tounge, lites, axle and hubs.... CW

Check out my build thread. The link is in my signature. I fixed mine, it was badly rusted on both sides. OR go here to my photo-bucket account. Sign in cwlongshot password JEEPER. CW

I adjusted the back brakes.. Some stu-nod drove right thru a stop sign and came with-in inches of a head on collision with me today. :headpop: :headpop: I stomped on the brakes and only JUST was able to stop...Guess that brake upgrade should be pushed forward a bit.... CW

BF Goodrich AT's MT's are always my first pic for a truck tire. Maybe the trail T/A you find on some new vehicles. Maybe a Trail T/A like found on many new vehicles. You don't mention a price range. The BFG's are not the cheapest, but they offer a proven track record for a long wearing highly functional tire. Its not really the cost as your choice is a bit more now or possibly a lot more later. CW

I picked up the trailer. We winched it up a grade and into the driveway with no issues. It was raining so sorry, no pics yet. But its a bit worse then initially apparent. All vertical surfaces look good, everything horizontal...rusted into oblivion. BUT, the axle and tongue both look really good!! SO, its a good deal as the cost was zip!! It looks or looked like this. www.alecjordan.com/trailer.html CW

I think mine are called gorilla nuts. :D :D I got them from quadratec. I'll suggest any name brand available at your local parts store as just fine. CW

Well, you fooled me, they are DEFINEATELY mounted correctly then. Mount those the other way and they will fail. CW

Gotten rained out past two days!! :wall: :wall: :wall: I picked up some bearing buddies, but they are wrong size. I also got some wire to wire up the lights, plug and trailer plug on the MJ & TJ. Neither one had wiring for a trailer. I am also picking up ANOTHER trailer tomorrow!! this one is a true basket case, its out in a field with trees growing thru it!! LOL. I THINK the axle is good. its a 4X8 Trail flite steel utility trailer. It could be total junk, but its not costing me a dime and its always work its weight as scrap steel.... Pics if its worth while. CW

If it a V8 then its simply not enough axle for that power and torque. frequent oil changes and easy driving can make it last but its simply not enough axle for a V8. If its a 4.0, well its simply not en... You get the picture. LOL Keep changing that fluid and be aware of tires. Rotate frequently and they must be the same size or you will wreak havoc on that drive line. the only AWD that is immune in the Jeep line up is that 242 T case. CW

Turning should not be affected at all. A lunch box locker is disengaged unless power is applied to it. Willy Power to it means from the drive shaft into the locker. I agree with him. Pushing, pulling or just rolling, as long as you do not put power to it, you will not have any problems because of the locker. BUT what tranny do you have as this is what can be damaged by improper towing. BEST BET ALL CASES is to remove drive shafts. CW

Are you talking about these?? Image Not Found They are called U-NUTS @ NAPA CW

Why downside up?

I got rained out today.. so all I could do was throw together a wooded gate. Its enough to serve the purpose and its cheap and easy!! CW

I am really liking these bed trailers!!! CW

:eek: Thats a heart attack on a plate!!!! :eek: :yes: CW

Right, at least thats all I needed in mt '89. CW

I don't see how that makes any sense at all. The axle was already modified before you touched it. If that is all they are looking for than it won't pass inspection as is or after you modify it. :hmm: Willy You do not understand because your an intelligent person exhibiting good common sense. Not a LIBERAL who is hypocritical to a fault and who thinks he knows whats best for everyone else...The bottom line is, It doesn't have to make sense, this is the rules, correct or incorrect. Now that I know what the "problem" areas are, I can better avoid them!! :yes: :yes: :yes: That's the entire reason for region as is.... Then I can build as I want, I'll already have the plate. I KNOW what I build will be safe and strong. CW

I was able to install the races and finish up the hubs tonight. I also installed the lites and also some angle iron to help better straighten the sides of the bed. It worked OK, not great... Ill build a wooden tail gate just to have it. I found some good hinges to use. I also tried one of my 33x9.50 MJ tars for S&G. It just fit under the fender, but the BS was still too much to bolt them up. I also herd today that I may not be able to reg it if I touch the axle. I was intending on cutting in the center and saving it to the wanted diameter. I was told this is a no-no and will cause the trailer to fail its inspection. All the more reason to reg it as is THEN rebuild it!! Here is the pics: BEFORE: AFTER: CW

I like the idea. I LOVE the look, but the more I looked into doing it I found the down side and only the looks withstood my alterations. SO, I decided to build my own. The biggest thing for me was the width and extra height being a bed on a frame design. BTW, I cannot view your pics??? CW

Sorry for the late comment.. I have been to his site for many years, nice place!! Some good ideas to say the least!! I foubnd this site too, lots of info here!! http://expeditionportal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=42 CW

I remember this too. I mentioned it to the counter guy at the parts store. We are ''I-D-ing'' this axle purely by bearing numbers. So its entirely possible this is wrong. :eek: But we checked again today because the dust caps where wrong. Came up with same 1928-1948 Ford full size. YES its is a tubular axle. Measurement thru the rust is 2 3/16. So actual is likely a tad less. Its also a king pin axle. (common I know) The axle is welded to the knuckle at the junction top and bottom. Its welded entirely around. So much so, it looks stock, like it never was supposed to turn. I knocked out the races and finished cleaning up the hubs. Then I wire wheeled the whole she-bang and shot it with primer and two coats of Krylon stainless steel paint. (I found three cans on the bottom shelf in my paint cabinet!) here you look....

I don't really know, I assume welded it. I'll know better or at least be able to see things better when I get it cleaned up. CW

NICE CLEAN looking Frame!!!

I picked up all the bearings, races and seals and dove into the hubs. MAN where these things a mess!!! I am doubting the maintenance of these bearings.... I didn't count of having to do this, but at least I now know that I will never have a problem here gain!! I also decided to quickly shoot it with black rustoleum. I also checked to see if the 12" tars I bought for the kayak build would fit. They are small, but they do fit, so I'll reg it with them, cause the tire I bough it with are shot and dry rotten. CW

Check out my thread on my rusted frame rebuild. My mounts where fine, but making or swapping in new ones shouldn't be a big deal. A bit of common sense, some steel for cladding.mounts as well as knowledge of suspension geometry and a good welder and you will be all set in no time! CW