CWLONGSHOT

Even with a old motor, it was designed with period oils in mind. So the newer, so called better or improved oils may not be so great for our "old tech" engines. I have recently switched over to the ROTELLA T from SHELL. Its a long standing HD TRUCK/ diesel oil that's now available in passenger vehicle friendly flavors!! Like all of the 4.0L owners, I have been plagued with tappet/rocker noise. more so than I like and the last two changes have been with this oil and I think it's quite! Its a bit more $$. but spending $$ on the heart or life's blood of the Jeep is moneys worth spending. CW

I dreaded drilling such a big hole for a time too... RTV sealed it perfectly and no issues have resulted. Just measure carefully. There is a nice shelf at the back of the cab where you should stay under for the exit from the cab. It acts like a drip guard and works well. I drilled mine just to the DS of the hump so I was able to get it lo-enough. If you would like I can snap a pic for you.. CW

Standard bearings and seals. Just alot stronger!! CW

I have a set I got thru someone on here thru EBay... They are originally for a 4.6L Ford V8. But rebuilt, and packaged for the 4.0 jeep. They where even bench Flo checked to be very close! IIRC 100 bucks. The Truck runs much smoother and started better after the swap. CW

Just check the regular places and see if there is any sales going on... When I put the 44 in the MJ one of my axles was bad. bad seal surface area. The factory replacement was very expensive... IIRC I got the set from Superior on sale for just a bit more than ONE factory D44 axle shaft would have cost me from the factory!!! CW

I ran the cable from the CB, down to the carpet, along the hump, threw a 3/4" hole in the back of the cab. Then up between the bed and cab. Then attached it all along the bed side with cable wraps as shown. Keep it straight, don't coil up any extra. Cut it to nearly exact length needed. Be sure of the ground where the base attaches. If in any doubt, attach your own ground as I have. When finished, test for continuity between mast and ground. There should be NONE! Good luck, CW

Too old for an alignment?? That's like too old to rock n roll!! FIND ANOTHER SHOP!!! :roll: ;) :D I agree, it sounds like the beginnings of death wobbles, but not nearly as bad as they can be. True DW cannot be stopped till you get the truck fully stopped, compose yourself, remove your white knuckled hands from the wheel, circle the truck numerous times to see what fell off and then get used to driving with your new home built "finger grooved" steering wheel!! LOL Eagle is one of our resident masters on the DW subject. He gives it to you straight... CW

Thanks for the comments guys!! Altho I quickly tought about it... I really would never consider a spool on the street for tire wear reasons. I know one would be far more predictable. Its on, always on and always the same. I have had a couple lockrites, one E-Z locker and one Aussie. While not identical, work, assemble and function nearly identical. I have a E-Z in the TJ back with the D35. I removed and re-installed at at least twice. Thinking the thing was broken. It was always fine. Unloading too many time to remember. The entire vehicle would lurch and "catch" and continue just fine. Banging and popping where the norm. I let my Pop drive it for a while and it was nearly invisible. So What Paul says about driving style is spot on! Its absolutely amazing the differences wheel base and what transmission makes! I threw a lock rite in the D35 of the MJ before the D44 swap. That thing was awesome! Never even a hiccup! The Aussie is in the front axle of Eugene. it is also invisible on the street. But that's because its not a drive axle. Off road its what it should be with the only draw back a limit on my turning radius. I'm leaning to my first decision, the full Detroit. Like I said before. I have had a full Detroit on the street before. it was a Mustang with a auto and a V8. It was vary mild mannered. But was before I really knew what it was. i blew a rear and bought a replacement with the Detroit in it. At first we thought we had bought a "problem" rear as it would "click" all the time in turns. LOL... It would "pop" occasionally. Again leaving me thinking it was on its way out... It wasn't, it was fine and Hole shots would leave two equal length marks. Finally a lube swap and some reading showed me what I had. I have spoken with Auburn a couple more times and this D-REX plan seems a good one. they will send you out a replacement differential, BEFORE you pull yours! Allowing you to swap it in and not do with out your truck! They need the receipt, (in my case long gone) OR the numbers off the case. Then you pay for a clutch pack and they send you the replacement diff. CW

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!! CW

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Cotter pins are a "once" use item, and should never be re-used :no: Correct. One or both legs gets bent over 180 degrees to lock it in place. By the time you bend it, straighten it out for removal, then bend it again -- it's pretty well work hardened and on the ragged edge of failing. I confess to having reused them in an emergency, but it really is a "NO-NO!" And no hubs come with cotter pins. The cotter pin is not part of the hub assembly, it's part of the stub axle assembly. Cotter pins are a "consumable" item in automotive repair shops. Tie rod ends sometimes come with replacements, but I can't remember anything else that does. If you don't have an assortment of cotter pins next to your toolbox, you're not a real Jeeper. i reuse cotter pins all the time, and actually have never had one break....(though i do realize its just a matter of time.... That is your choice and so far you have been lucky. Cotter pins are WAY CHEAP. They are there to keep a critical nut from loosening. Why on earth would you want to take a chance of a catastrophic failure because you where too lazy to change a 20cent cotter pin??? Do what you like, but NOT changing to a new pin every time of foolishness.. CW

I just swapped my fluid in my ECTED two weeks ago. Checking my Auburn manuel said that you muct use the modifier, even on the bottles labled to have already have the additive. CW

SURE ENOUGH!!! There is a number of options!! Hell Creek is a member here and has what you need. Motion Off road is also here and aslo has a couple to choose from. I have a set of ALCAN leafs, and you could have a set built from a local shop. Last choice would be Rustys offroad. CW

What that CAN do, you THINK they should be able to do and what is SAFE is very likely VERY DIFFERENT! Remember we are speaking about a vehicle that's over twenty years old. many with tired suspensions, steering, trannys and engines. Use your head if you need something to tow near 5K. Go buy a Ford/Cheby/Dodge/FSJ with a full frame and a V8 engine. If its only a one time thing, find a buddie with said truck and buy him a case of beer for the troubles. OR maybe go rent such a truck for the afternoon. I am in the same boat, I really need a tow vehicle. I used to own a 2WD F250 after I sold that I would borrow my pops Dodge 1500. Now that's gone. I use the F350 @ work for the occasional two job. But last year we bought a bigger boat... 23' cutty cabin. Its HEAVY!!! the last owner delivered it with a F350 diesel and it squatted the suspension! We found that the trailer was not set up properly as the tongue weight was over 500 lbs!!! Before my heart attack, I could just lift it to get a block under it. Now... FORGET THAT!! Its still heavy but better at 375lbs. I would love to find a J20 but will likely have to settle for a FSJ Grand Cherokee. That's fine cause there is more room for my fishing buddies!! Any how, If you haven't caught my "drift" so far, I agree with Eagle. 3500lb is a sensible MAXIMUM for our trucks. Regardless of equipment. I would very much hate to read of one of you getting hurt doing something like this, because you read on here its "doable". JMHO, CW

Just wanted to wish one and all a Happy Easter! CW

Its not that simple... You best grab everything form the calipers/rotors in... Most everything is different. Than there is the different lug spacing... What are you looking to accomplish? Stronger steering setup? Personally I would get away from the inverted Y set up of stock jeeps. That means the ZJ and Currie setup are out. I like the various 1ton setups out there. mine is the JCR system, but there are others. If you want go with a tie rod flip to gain some clearance. maybe a tera flex knuckle too if you like, but these require extra work as the sway bar needs modification. CW

There is another one.. the Rambler Scrambler!! Same red white and blue color scheme... CW

I added a second horn right next to the first one. Later on I wanted louder so I picked up a air horn kit. I mounted that under the pressure bottle with the horns bolted to the bottom of the plate. Just yesterday, I moved them to the top of the same plate. I have more room for them since using the alum bottle. All run off same horn switch. The only thing I did was add an additional relay with the factroy horn wire as the trigger wire. CW

Mostly durability. Working in the front is one thing as you don't run 100% of the time with the front axle engaged... Don't get me wrong, It will hold up, but it's simply not as durable as a full cased carrier/locker. Why go backwards in strength.. I men I put a 44 in there for strength, why ham string it with a not as strong setup? CW

Pow-r-Loc's where the bomb!! I have actually seen one break a axle shaft!!! Yes they are good LS's! but don't think they have anything on the modern Tru-track and to a lesser extent the Torsen differential!! So for the front (when I do do it) that's my choice! I thought about the cost factor being I have a open case on the shelf and the $300 cost of the Aussie/Loc-rite compared to the $600 for the full Detroit. Good argument.... I never considered the spool as this is not on the trail that much. (Once a month on average.) Besides the increased cost of tires kinda negates it for me. But I'm sure you are correct, the same qualities that make the Detroit mild mannered apply to the spool. CW

LOL yup that would be a very grampa "ish" addition!! CW

The MJ got a good "going over" today!! Spent a couple hours underneath with a wire brush and a couple cans of Black Rustoleum!! MAN the salt is tearing up my truck!!! Almost every weld I made was rusting! Its much better now!!! I changed the tranny Fluid, T-case fluid, Engine oil, Power steering fluid and I finished up changing out the brake fluid. I did the Axles a couple weeks back. I have been having troubles with the ECTED for most of the winter.. trouble was it doesn't work!!! I pulled the DS and checked the operation of the ECTED. its got 12V and seems to be just fine. BUT it doesn't lock... I was remembering that this was a clutch limited slip that simply compresses the clutches to lock the axle. Well, I'm thinking that the clutches are about gone so it cannot lock any longer. When I installed it you could not turn one wheel with out the other, simply the limited slip was so tight, you couldn't "bias" the axle by hand. NOT NOW!! Its so EASY to turn one wheel against the other you can do it with one hand! I think I'm gonna replace it with what I should have bought to begin with, a full case Detroit locker!! NO NONSENSE and always works!!! I'm thinking to pull the ECTED, install the Detroit and send the ECTED back for repairs then pedal it on EBay. Lessin' one of you fellars wants it... THEN, I installed a switch on the winch so its able to be turned off. Lastly while I had the drive shaft out, I changed the universals. The one at the back of the T-Case was squeaking, so I changed out both as well as cleaned and painted it while it was out! CW

EXACTLY my thinking!! I never had one in the front, but one guy in my club did. I have ridden in and driven that YJ and I can tell you you are spot on correct. IMHO, a Detroit in the front of a vehicle like a CJ/YJ,TJ is a mistake. Now go figure, I HAVE and have had lock-rites and Aussies in the front axle of jeeps and they are fine. In fact the Aussie in my TJ on 35's is completely invisible. The mud terrains are noisy enough that you do not even hear or feel the ratcheting in turns! LOL. Even so, I pretty sold on the Tru track for the front. Its just gonna have to wait for a while...I'm gonna fix the D44 first! maybe if mommas agreeable, I'll grab some funds from the tax return and do it quickly!! :brows: :brows: Thanks for the tips and opinions guys, keep 'em coming!! :thumbsup: CW

Well boys.. the problems I have had with this ECTED axle are nearing an end... I am quite fed up with it!! Time for a new locker!!! Thinking full case Detroit Locker. IO have had one before in a mustang on the street and with the long DS and auto tranny in the MJ it should be just fine. I have been the lunch box route and altho I do have a open carrier on the shelf its not what I want in the MJ. I was ready to install a Tru Track in the front D30, but all winter the ECTED had been non functional and I don't like that! Today I dropped the DS and pulled the cover on the 44 to see what was going on, i had an idea that maybe I wasn't allowing a full 12V to get to the axle and that was the issue. But once I got the tires off the ground and was able to "bias" the tires. (Turn one against the other) I saw that the clutches where worn. I installed this back in Feb 2007. Now in its defence, I haven't been easy on it, don't get me wrong, I don't abuse it. but with the 4:56's and allow axles driven by a torque 4.0L it was "fun" to catch the occasional rice burner with a fart can holdin' his arse at a stop lite. :yes: SO, I'm sure I hastened its demise. I'm planning on sending it back to Auburn for a rebuild and a once over. Then toss it on Ebay and get rid of it. What do you have for a rear locker and what do you like? CW

Mine got a good "going over" today!! Spent a couple hours underneath with a wire brush and a couple cans of Black Rustoleum!! MAN the salt is tearing up my truck!!! Almost every weld I made was rusting! Its much better now!!! I changed the tranny Fluid, T-case fluid, Engine oil, Power steering fluid and I finished up changing out the brake fluid. I did the Axles a couple weeks back. I have been having troubles with the ECTED for most of the winter.. trouble was it doesn't work!!! I pulled the DS and checked the operation of the ECTED. its got 12V and seems to be just fine. BUT it doesn't lock... I was remembering that this was a clutch limited slip that simply compresses the clutches to lock the axle. Well, I'm thinking that the clutches are about gone so it cannot lock any longer. When I installed it you could not turn one wheel with out the other, simply the limited slip was so tight, you couldn't "bias" the axle by hand. NOT NOW!! Its so EASY to turn one wheel against the other you can do it with one hand! I think I'm gonna replace it with what I should have bought to begin with, a full case Detroit locker!! NO NONSENSE and always works!!! I'm thinking to pull the ECTED, install the Detroit and send the ECTED back for repairs then pedal it on EBay. Lessin' one of you fellars wants it... THEN, I installed a switch on the winch so its able to be turned off. Lastly while I had the drive shaft out, I changed the universals. The one at the back of the T-Case was squeaking, so I changed out both as well as cleaned and painted it while it was out! CW