CWLONGSHOT

If it gets faster and faster until it disapears...its likely the DS universals. CW

If you are considering putting one in the Chevy in your Sig line. I would rethink this style of driving unless you want to upgrade your axles. Being that its a K10 its likely only got med duty 10 bolt axles. With the V8 power likely available from your fresh crate engine, coupled with the sticky 35" boggers and high traction from the locker. They will not stand up to this stress for very long. IMHO. CW

I'm coming in late...but will throw in my opinions. THE 8.8: As for as strength, (31 Spl) I have to give the nod to the 8.8. Its all about the housing here guys, its flat out BEEF! As for it having the dreaded "C: Clips. Don't give it another thought, you likely NEVER BREAK THEM!!! As to the offset pumpkin. again, FORGET ABOUT IT!!! Guys in TJ/YJs have been running them for YEARS!!! They have 14-16" Drive Shafts and don't have any issues. Its NEVER going to be a problem in a MJ/XJ. The width is less, 5/8" per side to be exact. As long as you run aft mkt rims its likely a moot point. Its likely got Disc brakes. Readily available/COMMON w/ 4:10 gears. Its usually cheaper to and easier to acquire. THE 44: Yea its got a weaker housing, but its got good sized bearings, good sized axle shafts as well as good spline counts. No "C" Clips "BUKU" aftermarket stuff out there for the D44. Pumpkin centered and its also the CORRECT width!! Speaking about the pumpkin. Its smaller than the 8.8. This is a good thing if are running a 33" or smaller tire. The 44's, seem WAY expensive. If you can get of reasonable, go for it. SUMARY: I have a 8.8 in my TJ. Its a GREAT axle. I have a D44 in my MJ, its a GREAT axle. Either one will be a great asset to your rig. If you find a D44 for a good price grab it. If not go for the 8.8. After all the above, I prefer the 44. My single biggest reason for preferring the 44 over the 8.8 is the sheer size of the 8.8. Its a GREAT rock finder if you don't run big 35's or 36" tires. CW

No less or more loud than any lunch box I have seen. That's what a locker is. LOCKS both rear tires together. The idea is not to spin, the idea is that hopefully, enough traction will be gained by having BOTH tires on an axle work together. In order to transmit all the forces into moving the vehicle INSTEAD of sitting at the base of an obstacle spinning a tire. CW

I LOVE mine!! They throw very "clean" light while not blinding to oncoming traffic. HI beams are killer. I like the look of the blackened reflectors!! CW

I made my own as well. Check out my post in MJ Projects: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... sc&start=0 CW

Been FISHING!!!! Sorry to leave you guys for so long..... No updates on the manche.... CW

SAME HERE Pete!!! :cheers: ;) CW

All front control arms for TJ, MJ, XJ & ZJ are interchangable. Even the WJ will fit with minor alterations. CW

I have had three total. I still have a run two of them. Overall a GREAT product. They look exactly the same as the Lock rite and EZ lockers, but have better warranties and seem to be better made!!! GET ONE!!! CW

Just as long as you realize, driving a locked vehicle will not be the same as driving a conventional open diffed vehicle. Jeff87 may have called what he is experiencing wrongly, but what he is speaking about is truly there and is part of life with a locked rear axle. the longer the DS the less this is noticed. So our Comanche's got it pretty good in that regard. Autos even mask any harshness even more. But try driving a locked Wrangler some time.... Not pleasant as that DS is only about 16" long!!! To make the lunchbox locker work properly it needs more "slop" so there is some feedback to the driver when letting off or getting back on the throttle. Again, this is magnified by a stick and masked by the auto. On uneven or not level ground you will find the vehicle may pull a bit. This is merely the effect or BOTH rear tires pushing you at the same time. Its not awful and Jeff is spot on you get used to it quickly. Also, driving with or in 4WD on snow covered streets. Two words BE CAREFUL!! Ever do a burn out in a LS or locked vehicle? The @$$ end swings to the side. Well its swings to the lo side of the road, EVERY TIME. this is because with both tires spinning there is nothing to stop the effects of gravity. This effect is further magnified when ALL 4 tires are spinning. Lockers are EXCELLENT lo side finders!!! Drive smart and you will be fine. Personally I will NEVER drive at anything over 25MPH in a locked vehicle on snow/ice in 4WD. You will likely find its just not needed. My reasoning is that at any kind of speed things happen too fast to react and THATS WHEN YOU GET IN TROUBLE. I have had a half dozen vehicles with lockers and a couple fully locked for countless thousands of miles. Use your head and drive smart in hazardous conditions and you will be fine. CW

IMHO, a 33X10.5 is a MUCH better tire for a MJ/XJ than a 33X12.5 ever can be. I have a set of BFG AT's on factory 10 spokes on the MJ now and LOVE THEM!! My wheeling rubber is a set of BFG 33X9.5's on factory "Phone Dial" rims. CW

I am thinking you guys are a bit miss informed about exactly what Torque steer is. First off, none of our MJ's are set up for full time 4WD, so you shouldnt have it in 4wd on pavement. At least not dry pavement. So you cannot feel torque steer. BESIDES, because its a 4WD torque steer isnt nearly as noticeable as the rear axle is pushing just as hard as the front is pulling. Torque steer is a condition in some front wheel drive vehicles wherein more torque is applied to one wheel than the other. Torque steer is common in front-drive cars because reaction forces created in the half-shafts can generate uneven steering forces in the front tires. Feeling the vehicle being pushed straight because of the rear locker is not torque steer. If your front axle is as factory set up, and you install a lunch box type locker. As long as you are in 2WD you will have ZERO noticability that its there. You may HEAR it clicking, but will get ZERO feedback in the wheel. If there is no power running to it it will remain invisable to the driver. CW

Here is a Vacuume routing diagram I ran across....Hope it helps.

BINGO!! Correy is spot on!!! The shifter engages the transfer case, not the front axle. THAT is controled by vacuume. The fact that your light didn't come on is further proof of the issue. CW

I wouldn't say they are garbage.... Mine is currently in its THIRD Jeep and only second set of bearings. The bearings had to be changed only because the yahoo who had it last thought its was INTURNALLY LUBED!!!! Ignoramus!!! BOTH previous Jeeps where trail only Jeeps with 35/36" tires/locked. No problems before the bearing issue. Any how, I have it on my TJ with 35's locked with no problems. I elected to throw on a new set of the hubs them selves and keep the originals as trail spares. What you need to know and understand is that the hubs them selves are now likely to be your weak spot or "FUSE". They are in my case as I am running allow shafts and super joints. The hubs run $180 a set. BUT are changed in as long as it takes you to swap a tire. If you wheel hard and like the skinny pedal, you will likely break some. They are strong but don't really like hitting rocks repeatedly. Wheel smart, using your head instead of horsepower and you will like this product. CW

Cole, Adjusting the control arms adjusts the CASTER. Or front to back movement of the wheel. CAMBER on the otherhand, is not adjustable on a solid axle vehicle. (Accept with the afore mentioned offsett ball joints.) Here is what a quick search turned up on the subject: http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html CW

Here is a pic to prove it!! 1986 was the year. CW

Thanks for the comments guys!! One thing I GOTTA do is tires. This is a "off lease" vehicle and the PO threw on a cheep set of Mastercraft PASS CAR tires on it to meet his requirement of terminating the lease. :eek: Factory tire size was 215/75/16 and the ones on here are 235/75/16. Whats the biggest I can fit wit out any lift? Will fact ruby tires fit? (245/75/16) Here is a couple pics: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

They had a CRD there!! Thought about it for about 30 sec... Asking 12,9 got it for 11,6 PLUS a brand new set of tires & a full tank of premium fuel!! ;) CW

I just bought one for the Wife. Its a 2004 Sport one owner with 44,000 miles. 3.7 V6, discs at all 4 corners, PS, PB, PW, PM, cloth int. Last month she got T Boned and rolled the WJ twice!! The best part is she didnt get hurt!!!! Couple bruses, but thats it. Its a TEMP vehicle. meant to last her maybe two years, until I can get her another grand. What can you tell me? Thanks guys!! CW

I have the BAJA SS in my TJ. I spent the cash of the adapters, but found I hated the way they positioned you. I sent them back and made my own. I have been deliberating putting the fact TJ buckets in the MJ. I also need to figure a way to make something work. Here is some pix of the TJ bases I made. maybe it will give you some ideas!! This was factory, with the adapters: Here is a finished shot of my bases: Here is a bunch of shots as I made the bases. Hope it gives you some ideas.... CW

I have the KEVINS track bar system on my MJ and LOVE IT!! The only other I would consider would be the JKS. BTW. JKS makes the bars for KEVINS, ;) You can also get CASH BACK if you sell your frame mount for the T-bar back to Kevins!!! CW

OK, I think I got ya now.... Couple things as I have been here as well. Personally I like the higher rear look on PU's. You could adjust the perches to attain better angles. Or add degree shims. If you move the upper shackle mount up into the frame, with a longer shackle. I don't think this will get you where you want and is IMHO more trouble than its worth. Look at a XJ shackle. They are about 3.5" eye to eye. Anything shorter will contact the frame during articulation. Which is the same problem I feel, you will see if you move the upper mount up too far. Lotsa stuff begins to happen at 6" out front. Steering gets funky, the short arms SUK and your clearances at the back of the front wheels are limited. making BS choices important. The rear is easy in comparison. IMHO, everything is better at about 4.5". you tires will still fit, but overall the truck will look lower. My set up uses Rustys 4" leafs SUA and slightly longer boomarang shackles. Up front, I have 4.5 coils and ACOS set to level out the front LEFT TO RIGHT. So I to am right at 6" up front. CW

Although its not in a movie...it is on TV!! on the SIFI channel, in one of there new adds for the channel. Some woman is trying to cross the road. But cars and trucks are racing by at break neck speeds. The light changes and presto all vehicles are stopped by here elevating them into the air. Lo and behold it looks just like a MJ Tow Truck front and center!! Check it out!! CW