CWLONGSHOT

The 12pts are on the caliper bracket. You know the metric Allen head bolts that your talking about screw into it. Then the 12pt bolts attach to that bracket to the knuckle. This bolt is not required to be removed to remove the caliper. Cannot find a pic just now, but as stated there are two 12pt bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the knuckle and THREE 12pt bolts that hold the Unit bearing to the knuckle. You don't need to take these off to get the calliper off. Here is the only pic I can find just now. It doesnt show the caliper, but you can clearly see two of the three bolts that hold on the Unit Bearing on. If you look close, thru the rust. The bolts that hold on the caliper mount are not in this pic. On the newer axles, this mount was eliminated and the knuckle was cast as a one piece unit. Also as stated there are two bolts with hex heads only there is no real head the bolt is the same diameter. The size is 6MM IIRC. You really should get yourself a Chilton's or Hayes manual. CW

What TNT means is while the WJ arms are boxed they are stiffer/stronger. They do not twist like the factory XJ/MJ's do. So in that respect they inhibit flex. CW

You have at it there fella!! :cheers: Let us know what you find. CW

Nothing really new to add.... Going to be swapping out the front coils soon. The ones I have are a tad on the lightly sprung side. If I hit speed bumps at more than ten MPH I bottom out hard... Looking at 5.5 RE coils. Just wanna be sure they are shorter than what I have now...believe it or not, I don't want it any higher than it is!!! CW Did buy another Jeep...2004 KJ for the wife!!! Here she is the day we picked it up. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Bic, Thanks man!! Figures a Jonfunder would come thru!!!! I also have the winch, winch bumper, but I'll be continuing to run my sway bar thank you..... :roll: CW

Noises can be damn near impossible to track down. More often than not you stumble on the cure... That being said, we need more information from you. 1) When did this happen? 1a) turning? 1b) Slowing down or speeding up? 1c) Going over a bump? 1d) Going over a bump while turning? You get the idea... One other thing, what the last thing you did or had done to the truck? CW

I have had Skyjacker coils before...WAY TOO STIFF.. but forgot all about BDS!! GOOD CALL, I'll check into those!! 6" Is going to be tall, but you have a point on cutting to fit..... Comanche man, When ever you get a chance, That would be great. Thanks a bunch guys!! THX, CW

Pete is the BOMB!!!!

Stupid question...but are the calipers on the correct sides? Bleeder screws on top/highest point. I ask because I made this error myself. In the heat of the install didnt think and couldnt get all the air out. Went in for a beer and a lil break, my buddie came over and almost in unison we both said DUH, I a dumb @$$ and put the calipers in upside down!!!! CW

A good set of shocks like Bilstein's would also solve your problem. I have some Rancho RS9009's on mine and on one its like a Caddy and on 5 it's like empty 1 ton truck. About 3 is perfect. Bilstein's are supposed to be way better. I'm going with some bypass Bilstein's when the rest of my rig is done and I can afford them. Been there done that... :D :roll: :brows: Your still a bit new here...check out my links in my sig for full rundowns on my rigs. I bought a set of 5100's but the valving was a tad light. So i sold them to a buddie with overly stiff coils and picked up these 5150's with the stiffer valving. better, but not yet right... They did make a HUGE difference. But the "weight" of the springs is just too light. No idea of manufacturer or what they are. I really do have a fairly extensive list of mods to this rig... :roll: CW

I have this Novak kit in my TJ.. WAY COOL!!! Wayne-O is a guy in my club with SKULL EVERYTHING!!! I was just busting on him.... CW

There is another + to my battery kill switch... If you where to get in and try to start, you would NOT immediately suspect a cut off...as the lights, dash, raido and gages WILL WORK, just the truck will not crank.... I just remembered another trick, remember to turn your raido WAY up so when they do get it running it makes that much more noise!!! If you lucky it'll pop an ear drum!!! Remember, thief's/punks want a quick, quiet snatch. If they make too much noise they will scoot. Otherwise, I'll introduce them to buddie Riley and my 870 standing next to the bed.... He is just a lil'lap dog...all 140lbs of him!!! :roll: :D CW

Yet another Darwin award nominee in the making....just add alcohol!!! :eek: :D Funny though, CW

Some of the videos I have posted on UTUBE... Hope you enjoy. http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... rch=Search CW

It was fun to watch!!! Kinda gives a whole new meaning to tread lightly huh.... :roll: CW

I still have a leak somewhere near the tank itself. Nothing ever on the ground and noting noticed underneath. But every time I fill up I can smell it until the level drops down a bit. I changed the "O" Ring on the tank when I did the fuel pump earlier in the year. Its not a major issue,,,but annoying. Good luck finding yours CW

I will very likely be getting rid of them. My complaint is they are quite soft for the road. Unsure what they are, but they do flex like mad!!! :brows: Its no rush, I ain't gonna be swapping them in the cold, that's for sure!!!! But need to correct this, its a drag going SO SLOW over speed bumps!!! Drove the TJ a couple days and that can go over speed bumps like its a pebble in the road!! Of coarse it rides like a tank, the MJ is a cadillac on the road!!! So its all relative I guess.... Thanks Stumpy, when ever you get a chance that would be GREAT!! BTW< if you see somewhere that's a better place to measure from that doesn't include sheet metal, shoot me the numbers there as well. You rock man!!! CW

I run a hidden keyed battery cut off switch as well as an ignition bypass switch. With out inserting and turning key, while depressing button and clutch the rig will not start. This is on my TJ crawler. The batt switch is a readily available unit. I got it locally, but have seen it at the big Jeep retailers, Quadratec and 4WD Hardware. Put it in and turn it and it will stay right there until you remove it. its not like a return to center ignition switch. As for the cut off, I have that wired with a "valet" switch so I do not have to show anyone where it is if I don't want to. This the best way to keep it working, don't tell you have it and never show where it is. I had seriously considered a brake lock system when I had it on the road. This is great thinking. You install the keyed switch in your floor so the driver can reach it to engage. Its plumbed into the brake lines. To engage, you depress the brake pedal and turn the removable key. it locks the pressure in the brake lines so the vehicle will not move until you re insert and turn key. Good luck, CW

I don't much care for the choice of music... but this guy exemplifies the term "DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT"> :roll: :eek: :D Enjoy, http://media.putfile.com/Come-see-Brad- ... s-Mountain CW

About an inch, no more.... CW

Good job man!! ANOTHER Comanche saved!!! CW

Mine does too!!! I used to have a extra isolater on the drivers side to help level everything out!! Now I just have the ACOS adjusted to level the truck out. CW

While you have it all apart back there. Take the time to make a new ground connection. There is a major grounding contact there on the drivers side. it becomes rusted and looses ground causing a number of "gremlins" to surface. Be sure there is enough length and cut off the factory connection to ground. Attach a new lug and preferably solder it to the wire. Make a new grounding point somewhere near old connection. But be sure its on good solid steel (sheet metal) near to where it was before. Don't forget to add a liberal amount of dielectric grease and securely reattach. Good luck, CW

Just the wire? Well, its likely that the wire is adequately insulated by the plastic covering. Even if the water did get inside, it would have to be in contact with another surface to make a connection. So its not likely this is anything to worry about. If a connection gets soaked and freezes, in a block or chunk of ice, you "could" have issues. You on the right path, thaw it out, dry it out and clean it out. Than apply the dielectric grease and you will not have a water related problem with that connection again. CW

Sure can!!! Get your self some DIELECTRIC GREASE and LIBERALLY apply at all electrical connections!! You'll notice some snotty looking crap in the plugs. this is factory corrosion resistant grease. Just clean off and re-apply the vaseline looking dielectric grease and say good bye to electrical demons!!! BTW, use it on all electrical connections from now on. Its one more security layer to inhibit corrosion and shorts in your cars electrical connections. CW