A-man930

short or longbed?

Oh and my budget is to be determined... obviously the cheaper the better, but I don't want crap for a front suspension.

So the drop bracket trick only relocates the LCAs?

Ok, good info so far. I want to have a setup that performs well on trails but isn't dangerous on the street. I'm trying to get a feel for what would be the best use of my money. Any further shortarm lift would require replacement upper and lower units of very high quality (I'm impressed with JKS' product quality and features...). What exactly would short arms with drop brackets entail and what would be the pros/cons of this setup be? We'll go one at a time :typing:

Differences between short and longarms... obviously the stock suspension is short, and longarm conversions relocate the LCAs further back, but what are the pros and cons of each??? As I hear, longarms are softer-riding on the street... but thats really all I know. I want 6" of lift in the end when its all said and done. Sell me

I'm gonna go with these guys. http://www.fuelsender.com/services.html

btw, you should see all the trouble Exide (walmart's supplier) has been having with their batteries... Hence our NAPA's switched to East Penn (interstate)... I would steer clear.

Like anything else you have to know what you're looking for when you shop around. -If you want massive cranking amps to turn over your hardcore high compression big block, you get a redtop. -If you need a battery that will withstand multiple discharging (aka, deep cycling) from extended loads such as lights, winches, crawling on the starter, etc.. while still being an automotive battery that provides high cranking amperage, then you get a yellowtop. THE REDTOP IS NOT DESIGNED TO BE DEEP CYCLED. If you keep going through them, perhaps you should read what they're intended to do... regular lead-acid batteries work fine, but the AGM spiral cells utilized in Optimas and others (someone earlier was thinking of NAPA's Orbital series...) ARE superior in every way. Learn how a battery actually works and you'll see why.

I decided not to mess with going to full-H.O. I retained the Renix system by re-using the Renix intake manifold (thats where all the important stuff is.) If you want to go to a true H.O. system you'll be best off also switching to the H.O. dash harness, as trying to get a Renix dash to work with the H.O. engine bay is NOT simple...

Where did you get it? I'm looking to do the same thing

Sweetness

How exactly do you go about switching to the 29 spline axles? (OE ones or aftermarket) I know you need new side gears, does that necesitate having a pro set up the whole thing again?? (sorry for the lack of terminology, haven't gotten this far in school yet) I'm really interested in getting an Aussie eventually, as it is evidently simple for the non-pro to install. Just want to know what i'm getting into.

x2 on the track bar. For me it was the mount itself making a sharp *pop* at those low-speeds when you would turn either way. Its bolted on from the factory, weld it on.

Put the seal in tonight, all I can come up with is it was a moisture/dirt seal. And as far as I've heard, you should re-use the MJ prop valve. And it's not necessary to swap the pedal assembly. Its just more work for no gain at all

Of course through all this I've managed to screw something up. So I found this cute little Oring in the bottom of the booster box... seems as if it was supposed to go between the mc and booster... before you bolt them together :clapping: The system works great (as far I can tell, don't really have any comparison to make besides the worn-out OE stuff...), so I'm wondering what this dude is supposed to do??? Any suggestions? Is it just a dust-seal? vacuum seal? Hydraulic seal?!

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=924285 We just ground-out the hole till that little plastic bushing just fit and used a flapper wheel to grind the flat spot. Only problem being that hole needs to be a loose fit for that bushing for the switch to operate... yea, I figured that out when the thing was all installed and put together. So I just removed the little booger and I've got enough wiggle-room for the switch to work now. So when you do yours, make that hole big enough :shake:

Found a writeup on how to home-brew the rod to fit the old style switch. Go Dremmel! :D

Ok, need to know 2 things. -What size line goes into the stock proportioning valve from the MC? (please say 3/16 inverted flare...) -If I decide to go with a different pedal assembly, am I going to have to find a manual-equipped '96 XJ??? (please tell me "no" here, thanks ;) )

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5840 :beerhead: I might eventually go to the late washer bottle setup, but unless I can find someone parting out an appropriate year XJ and get to it in the next week I'm probably going to just stick with relocating the stock one for now.

I'm shooting for the simplest option really. Read: no caliper upgrades or rear disc conversion. I've read a couple of threads an write-ups on late XJ brake booster and MC upgrades and I like what I read here. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... pgrade.htm So I'd like to clear up a couple of issues before I tackle it. Will I need to relocate/replace my washer reservoir? Can I keep the '90 brake pedal assembly and use the a different sensor? Basically if anyone has experience with this swap give a shout!

Subscribing... I just discovered a nice HOLE in my floor :D Probably from a water leak. I'm really considering just tearing out the carpet all together and putting undercoating or truck bed liner in its place. Anyone have any negative experiences with that?

Yea... I wasn't going to say it. I say if you're gonna bother (and it will be a pain) you might as well go to something like a turbo Ford 2.3 or any other originally RWD-mounted four that's easy and cheap to get in the first place, has a good reputation for reliability etc., and has a big community of hot-rodders/tuners

Oh, but you're talking about the Jeep-ified "iron duke"... ewww :rotf:

By "Hurricane engine" do you mean the old Jeep F-head deal-yo?? That might be interesting...

One more for the 2.2 being a not-so good choice. I hate to say it 'cause I'm a GM guy at heart, but there are many better choices if you want 4 cyl power... I'm tempted to steer ya toward a Ford SVO turbo 4 banger, now that would be different! But yea, whatever floats your boat dude, that's what its all about! :thumbsup: