WahooSteeler

I've done zero troubleshooting, thought I'd ask before I dug in, hoping for a simple "just do this". FYI though, the clock is on a 3 or 4 wire harness and pigtail, so not sure how to confirm that "just" the memory wire is ho. The only thing that WOULDN'T be hot all the time is the backlight. That being said, which color wire is the "memory" wire?

Getting her aligned (finally) today, needs shims. Since I'll be lifting it 2-3" soon, will I be doing this all over again after the lift. I didn't think of this until after they called me about the shims (dohh!!!).

Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?

that pic from gixxerman looks like mjeff's ride

Heh heh, well, it starts every time now, but as i was working on the radio this evening, i noticed the clock is not getting power when the key is off, i.e. it starts back at 1:00 every time. Suggestions?

Drachir, if you find Taz a 44 and it happens to have MT spring packs on it, I'll take 'em for sure...........assuming Taz did not want/need them. :brows:

Got it fixed!! Duhhhh!! Finally got some time to tinker again yesterday. I thought for sure it was my starter relay, but then I got the wife to turn the ignition while I was up under the hood and I heard the relay click, so I thought "relay is fine, it must be the starter". Checked the wires to the starter solenoid (all good) and banged on the starter a few timesjust to see. Still no crank and the whole system would "shut down" as soon as the key was turned from the "on" position to the "start" position. So one last time I thought I'd check all the wires coming off of the starter relay before I go to buy a new relay, solenoid, and starter (I figure if I gotta replace the starter, I may as well spend an extra few bucks and replace the other items). Even though I had noticed before the hot from the battery to the relay was the tiniest bit loose, this time I tightened the clamp down to be sure and yet it still seemed the same. I take off the clamp and whaddayaknow, the hot to the relay is broken about halfway through, but basically only under the clamp because the strands had spread out and individually were pinched by the clamp. I.E. to the naked eye the strands showing on both sides of the clamp looked fine. Soooooooo, only a few strands were carrying juice to the relay, which it turns out was enough that it could complete a circuit and power the low amp interior lights but not enough to energize the relay and therefore the shutdown whenever the key was turned to the start position. A quick cut of the old and strip off some "new" wire, re-attach, and bada-bing, she starts right up. Good thing too, the back was loaded to the hilt with trash and getting a little stanky! :brows:

I think I've identified the main area of the problem(s), and hopefully this weekend I can finish it up since I've been gone the last two weekends. It is either the battery cables or the starter relay block. Whenever I jiggle either of those, my interior lights and such will come on. However, something is still drawing the whole system down and/or one or both of those problems finally just killed the battery that it won't hold a charge at all, but has enough juice to light up the accessories. I.E., even after I get power flowing to light up the cab and then hook up jumpers for 30+mins, as soon as I turn the key it kills the system.

the auction has 3 days left and 7 bids??

I like the color matched flairs, but like the black too. The silver flairs don't look bad since they blend in with the bumpers, but, IMO, definitely don't like the cab vents painted silver. Seems like you can do this in stages and see how you like it and then change if necessary. Cutting the front seems like a sure winner, so maybe start with that and see if you like it with the blue flares. Go black next and if you don't like that go silver. Could make for a lot of work but gives you options.

a real camera might be the best idea instead of the one on the phone :brows:

i believe that wrecked manche is somebody's on here......

you can get the individual ones from wholesalemopar.com

I agree w/JT. IMO the front bar would look soooo much better with the lights tipped under. In fact, I think it might look good to mix and match a little. I think the ones you have on the bar now actually look too small on that big bar. On the bumper or a more std brush guard I think they would look ok, but they look TINY on that badass bumper. I say throw the sweet Jeep round ones under the push bar and keep the 5 rec's across the light bar.

LOL yeah I thought the self-quote was strange, but easier to reference than re-typing etc. No corrosion issues on battery terminals or junction block, hence no mention of cleaning and reconnecting with dielectric goo. That's my point, since all the leads were on tight, no corrosion, I'm still searching for the reason why the vaunted "jiggle test" produces said results LOL! I'll report back later...........

Thanks for all the info guys. I've been printing all the diagnostic suggestions out to perform. Now that I can get it jumped again, I'll probably take it to Advance and get them to test the battery and alt on the spot. I think I've got a multi-meter lying around, but assuming it's the battery I can get it changed out on the spot. However, and not to discount your opinions, as noted in the quote of my own statement above, I went from a "no lights on, no power, no nothing" status to a little jiggle of something all of a sudden giving me lights, key buzzer, elec. fan on. That to me screams something other than dead battery cell.

Good and not so bad news. Had a chance to fiddle around with my electrical issue this past weekend. So the good news is I got the clock and radio working! Yeah! (JT, want your clock back LOL?) Homer Simpson here overlooked a power lead that had slipped behind the HVAC controls, so I was only hooking up the battery lead to the battery and power lead on the deck. DOH! The not so bad news is I think I've identified the no start/dead battery issue also, to some extent. While tracing wires around the engine bay, I re-confirmed for the 100th time that the PO was all about "The Splice". I have never seen so many "tap and go" hookups, i.e. he would just splice in to any fused power source "mid wire" with electrical tape to hook up whatever he was running. Anyway, there is a power block or relay of some sort just behind the battery with several wires attached with spade connectors. When I grabbed each wire around it to see if there were any loose connections, they were all tight but whaddaya know, lights and electric fan came on. Buuuuuttt, it still needed to be jump via cables (jump box still not enough juice) and after running for 30+ mins, no start again immediately after turning it off. So, tomorrow I hope to post a pic of this part. Assuming it is something that can go bad, it is either this that needs to be replaced and/or there WAS a loose connection and it drew down on the battery enough that it killed it beyond being able to recharge it. So hopefully it is either this power block of some sort, the battery, or both.

Well, like Warrior said and I agreed, there is always a better deal to be found. Check out this cherry.......for $1800! http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=557699

Dude, that IS creepy.

Damn Brian, you definitely find some deals! When my 4.0 goes, I'll be calling you to find my replacement! Do you prefer to be paid your finders fee in liquid form or green paper? LOL

Agreed. But if yours was 4wd, it would have been $3k minimum. In any local market you may find a gem like that and get a deal, but for the masses finding one is very difficult because a lot of those small dealers only advertise locally (if at all!) or regionally and can't be found online. Point being, it IS difficult to find rust free, super low mileage 6cyl 4x4 MJs and if those are important requirements for a potential buyer, supply and demand will support a higher price when offered to a larger group of potential buyers, i.e. eBay. By the way, nice rig. I like the beadlocks on the black wheels.

sport truck, schmort truck, that's got nothing to do with it IMO. 4.0 w/83k is the key, and not a lick of rust (supposedly) clean as a whistle.

I think he'd maybe get $5k or close to it if he didn't start bidding there. As always, way too many assumpitions or "what if's" regarding true condition w/out seeing and driving it, but that truck is damn sure worth more than $2500 if all is accurate. No, I would not pay $5k but I don't see any reason why that truck isn't worth mid $3s to low $4s IMO.

LOL no bubble buster at all! Keep 'em coming!

You can have a D44 rear w/out the Metric Tonne pkg. I've got the 44 and am looking for MT spring packs to put in right now. The VIN should tell you the model for sure, i.e. pioneer, eliminator etc. I had several links to different VIN decoders and can't seem to find them all of a sudden :mad: Black pin stripe is either gonna be a sport truck or pioneer model.