87manche

I'd look at the IAT or coolant sensor. MAP sensors don't usually go bad. You can test all of those with a DMM. Alos, adjusting your TPS to change your mixture isn't a good idea, it needs to be adjust for the proper voltages so the ECM knows how far you've stepped on the gas. It could also be an injector stuck open, or a fuel pressure problem. Did you hit any of the fuel lines? A pinched fuel return line could do that by spiking the fuel pressure at the rail. Check the fuel pressure, should be 31 PSI with the vacuum hose on and 39 PSi with it off. I'm fairly sure of those numbers.

I 've got no idea about it's former life other than it came from a 97. I just said F-it. I'm tired of working on it. They put adjustable sleeves in the knuckles, so I can use regular cheapy balljoints when I replace them. Anyway, I saw the printout, camber and caster are correct now, drives OK. Was just pissed cause I didn't get tto go wheeling this weekend. and the total bill was 332 after tax. They cut me a break on labor, I told them the front end would come apart easy :)

it IS a new axle!!! came out of a 97 XJ.

So, got the whoile front end put back together. Took it to the alignment shop. Alignment shop says $400. What a b*@$£. Camber is out 1.5* on both wheels, caster is off 2*. The threaded aduster in the knuckle for the balljoint wouldn't come out. They're tearing the whole front apart so they can cut the offending pieces out of the knuckle and replace them with the proper * parts. The Mj is a money pit!

more power at the wheels, easier on the clutch. Puts the motor in it's power band for highway driving, requireing less downshifting and getting better mileage.

that sucks. What kinda axle is that a D44? I nearly had the same experience when my pinion nut came loose. Apparently it's bad if your pinion moves 1/2"

That's odd, 9 out 0f ten here are 3.73's. I think all the v6's were 3.73s

if you plan on going to 33's I'd do 4.10's or 4.56's You'll have to do some math. I know that with 31's 3.73 pretty much put me back to stock drive ratios, 4.10's would have been my choice, but I got a great deal on some axles already geared 3.73, and it's the most popular gear ratio for an 8.8 which is the direction I'll likely go next year.

a D30 is pretty stout and if you get the 297x axle shafts should do OK with 33's. Definitely keep the D44 in the rear of the MJ!!!, It's a much stronger axle than the D35. I'd regear the front D30 to match, 4.10's would be nice with 31's, OK with 33's.

I drove a stock MJ with 31's, mileage with the stock 3.07s was OK. I got about 16 in town and about 22 on the highway. Acceleration sucked. The new 3.73's are much nicer to drive, but I don't have any mileage info yet since they just went under the truck.

for what gas would cost I'd just have a machine shop do it. Took'em about 15 minutes.

If they're both auto then they should both be 3.55, unless the MJ or XJ had a tow package or anything. I'd check the rear axle in the MJ, if it matches the front axle in the XJ then I'd just leave it. The front will be all bolt in, I just put a 97 XJ axle under my MJ.

Floorboard rust out. Check around the steering box for tearing of the sheetmetal. Check right behind the cab, that's where it stops being unibody and starts being a frame, lot's of stress there if someone has overloaded it. Just saw a 90 with the frame broken there.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78285

the comanche can't cook.

I wouldn't bother with the nicks in the top of the piston. You'll be removing material to smooth them, and that's likely to cause even more problems with balance and weakening. If you're really concerned then I would just replace the piston. I replaced just one piston on a Mazda 1.6, it's basically the same motor. it's still running today and that was 3 years ago. I think it cost me about $20 for the replacement pistons and $15 to have it put on the con-rod. You'll have to take it to a machine shop because the wrist pin is pressed in.

Got some rust to fix on the doors, gone herc the bottom 1/3rd. Then she'll be real pretty. Until I trail damage it :evil: Just loose the bed and doors now, and chop the frame.... thats what I call body damage :nuts: Still a DD, give me time to find a beater, then we'll talk tube :brows:

Got some rust to fix on the doors, gone herc the bottom 1/3rd. Then she'll be real pretty. Until I trail damage it :evil:

Buckets, full console. JVC head unit, 200W with 5.25a in the door and 6x9's in the b pillar. Sirius Sat rad, CB, full guage cluster.

With 3.73's now. Full Detroit in the rear. New solid axle with 297 joints up front. 3" lift, full coils, long add a leafs, hydro shocks. Old and busted: The new hotness: Yes, it's a white diff cover :) Gonna need 32's now. The final product.

it should be stamped into the ring gear what set they were. Both d-35's I've opened were like that.

rusty's has a pair

My axle swap is on track for this weekend. Got the new rear axle setup tonight. Perches and a full detroit. Unfortunately it's still a d35, but I'm not goin past 31's for a while yet, and I could pass up the price for a pair of XJ axles geared 3.73 with a Detroit that needed to be put in the d35. Anyway, it's going down this weekend. Lifting 3 inches, locking the rear and getting rid of my 3.07s in one fell swoop.

a Ford 8.8 will have to have al the factory bracketry cut off, then new perches welded on. You also have to get a flange to u-joint adapter, it's a spicer part $30 I think. The pinion is also longer, so unless your lifting you MAY have to have your D-shaft shorted to avoid jamming it into the tailshaft when you flex.

nope. Looked into it. Hitch sits right where the skid is. People with front hitches say it's just as good as the stock skid, it will take a hit. Just doens't keep out the mus as well.