87manche

I believe that the rotation on those pumps is different. Look at the impellers. The 4.0 uses a reverse rotation pump because of the serpentine belt.

I Pm'd him on NAXJA, he's gonna look when he gets home tonight. There's a sticker on it, but he doesn't know if that's who made it or who sold it or what.

that looks exactly like the one Mark has in his LWB that came from a yota, I think his has the sticker on it yet. I'll attempt to find out.

I used some grade 8 bolts for mine, they fit with very little space left. The only thing that concerned me was that it wasn't a round head, so I suppose it could dig into the spring perch.

mine was up on stands for a complete axle swap. Didn't do anything like that. i'd seriously look at the body for rust damage. The unibody, if intact, is actually quite a bit stiffer than a regular cab on frame design.

man that's clean. I want to get my manche back to factory black one of these days. specs?

if this is for the rear then that's the easiest way. Mine run back into the stock mounts that have been cut. A total of 4 1/2" bolts hold the bracket to the frame, and then the bumper bolts to those using another 4 1/2" bolts. That makes for 8 bolts into the rear frame rails. All my crappy weld on the bumper has to hold is the weight of the channel, all recovery forces go straight to the frame.

don't forget thta a cherokee trans will bolt right up. Lots more of those than MJs. It would be easier to get an MJ XJ trans, it's a direct replacement.

I have the skyjacker 3". It doesn't ride horribly bad. The rear is stiff because of the AAL, but I haven't played around with the spring retainers and such, so it might be workable. The front springs are nice, and they are better than the stock pieces as far as ride goes.

mine ar 3/8" and I feel that they are too small. I'd much rather have 1/2 or even 7/8" What I've got are more than strong enough to take a straight pull, but they bend if pull sideways. Make sure you find a good way to mount them to the frame. Are these front or rear?

try seaching here: http://www.xjdb.com/gallery/main.php

I should have mentioned that, I got lazy with the u-joints cause it was a weekend of axle swapping and lift and I didn't feel like doing them. 2K miles later and the joints in my rear DS are toasted. At least I did the front one, so I don't have to worry about that.

find a good local locksmith, they should be able to help you out, either repairing the lock or making a key matched to some junkyard locks. might want to look at just ordering a new lockset, JC whitney used to have the GM style door lock sets for cheap.

x2, it's not a hard modification to get the renix TPS to bolt up to the HO intake. My stroker build will use HO manifolds and a 99+ intake with a 7120 head that's coming off my brothers blown HO.the caveat to using the newer intake is the power steering pump bracket.

look at the bottom of it, if it's an AX-15 then it will have its serial number and date code stamped into the bottom on a flat spot towards the back. If it's a BA-10 the plate will be on the side.

mine sits at 3.5" or so and it's fine. no vibes.

THat's just putting the weak spot in the pumpkin itself. What's the ring gear dia. on the 30? 7.125 7.2 something like that. It's just not strong enough for the big tires if you're rock crawling and being hard on it. Let's not even talk about the unit bearings.

I took this to mean: will chevy one ton TRE's fit in a D30 knuckle. see my reply above.

ditch the 35, especialy if you're going to stroke the motor. It's just a pile. get yourself an xj/mj d44 and do crownvic discs on it, or go 8.8 If you keep the 35 there's no reason to not keep yours, you can put discs on your current axle. I would never waste the money required for an ARB on a D35, the only reason mine has a detroit is because it was given to me as part of another purchase.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... =door+swap :D

brilliant. mind if I archive that to my webserver?

not practical as a truck, not comfy riding enough for soccer moms like a ridgeline. Didn't use a frame/motor platform that was shared with other vehicles to offset costs. Wasn't interesting to anybody but Jeepers. Take your pic, it's all about the benjamins, and DC decided that the gladiator wouldn't make any for one or all of those reasons.

then he'll have holes in the roof.

back on topic: check the fuses, but also check the fuse block itself for distortion and the like. I see that your jeeps a 5spd, and the master likes to leak onto the fuse block. After that I'd check the ignition switch for the accesory problems. if the ignition switch is getting power and not passing it on then I suspect it, if it's not getting power check the fusible links under the hood.

thanks, I'll see if I can't get pictures tonight, they'll be crappy, as it's raining here, but I can show you the inside gasket/trim part.