87manche

just thinking about that. I wonder if Bob motz will be there. He's a local to me guy that has a pretty insane jet powered kenworth. http://www.jtmotz.com/ there's his webpage. he burns down the billboard on st rt 18 every year. Gets fined by the state every year for blowing burning debris into the road. Night under fire is pretty cool at norwalk :) another edit him torching the sign.

hmm. Work. change brakes on a bimmer body work on my junk.

an mj with a detroit in the rear is loads of fun in the ice and snow ;)

might try sherman parts. They have floor pans, and I know they have XJ rockers. You might be able to adapt the XJ rockers to work. Search for a few posts by CW on using a truck bed rail to fix his, I believe.

bar pin eliminators won't work on the back. The shocks are regular eye mount shocks with bolts that go through the bushings. i'd make sure that the bushings aren't shot and that the nut holding the shock on is properly tightened.

november 11th. www.redbirdsra.com body damage is likely, redbird is a collection of very tight and technical trails. LWB MJ's will make 20 point turns and have to pivot on trees.

http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews/su ... dge_nitro/

mines whatever the local guy recommended. It's got a few big dents, and it's holding up fine. It's quiet. Quite frankly I think that 4.0's sound badly with loud exhausts. I'm all for quiet when I'm wheeling for 8 hours at trail speeds.

likely they're h3 bulbs, in which case they're 55watts a piece normally. There are some 100W variants, but if they're walmart cheapies or something they'll be 55. I'd reccomend running a relay, with a 12Ga or even 10 Ga wire from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the lights. much lighter gauge wire can be used from the switch to the relay. Something like 14 or 16 ga would be adequate. The longer the wire the heavier the guage should be to compensate for the resistance, hence my suggestion for 10 ga, that and you know you'll add more lights at some time, so the heaview wire will save you the work of running it twice.

mines just a muffelr with a turn down before the axle. I found that the extra exhaust behind the axle simply got hung up on things and was in the way when I wheeled.

went to naxja and found the thread. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... by+upgrade hope that helps. edit: and the one with Napa PN's and pricing. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... by+upgrade NAPA PARTS: 715-1367 $18.99 715-1366 $18.99 (one is the air filter side, and the other is the valve cover side) 715-1365 $7.69 (This is the little vacuum tube that goes from the intake manifold to the rear of the valve cover. Includes Gromit)

napa carries it all. Probably cheaper after you factor in the shipping. 97+ stuff is an upgrade to the older stuff and helps prevent the system reversing and sucking oil into the air box. It's all Echlin stuff at napa. Cost you about $50 for the upgraded stuff.

I think that with what you're spening on seat covers you could get it reupholstered. There's a local place to me that does a lot of hot rod work. They redid a friends bench seat from his camaro in factory vinyl for $75. We pulled it, chucked it into the truck and picked it up later that day. Price with them pulling it was like $200, probably because it's a PITA pulling a bench seat in a 68 camaro.

CW, I apologize for not getting those pics up as promised. I got busy installing a water heater this weekend and went to the Steelers game on sunday, totally forgot. From the looks of it your rollbar sitts too far in anyway. My plates are right in the front corners of the bed.

I'd look into the brake circuit. Sounds like it's shorted and pulling enough current to kill the truck.

23 highway 16-18 city depending on aggression. ax-15, 3.73's 31", 3" lift. 258K miles.

I've got skyjacker hydros all the way around. I can't complain, even with the AAL.

early bronco. and having wheeled redbird I can say that a fullwidth rig wouldn't fit.

I'd choose the 20 over the 8.8 for a few reasons. strong R&P more diverse lockers and gears.

I'd definitly consider a 20. The R&P is freakin huge, the shafts are D44 sized. The only thing I can see becoming an issue is the tubes, but a truss would fix that, and it's not that big of a deal under a light pickup truck rear end. Only if you're running massive meats. In short, I'd build and run the piss out of an AMC20.

Speakers in the dash? :hmm: yes. My dash has the grills for them. Tweeters in the lower dash, right by your knee.

CW, I will take pictures this weekend. It's bascially a big right angle plate that's bolted to the frame, then goes up right in the corners of the box and has 4 holes to bolt the roll bar down too. it's actually a pretty sturdy arrangement. The only thing keeping it from being a true piece of safety gear is the weak attachment for the rear legs. The whole whig would just flop backwards rather than tear from it's front mounts.

88 likely won't have an external slave. Yes, it will fit if you whack the floorpan a few times to clear the t-case, the t-case is rotated 10-20 degrees higher, more ground clearance :) As long as they're both AX series trans then your shifter should work./

if all the other dash lights work in the cluster then it's likely the bulb is burned out. If you take it apart to do one, just do yourself a faver and do them all. The bulbs are cheap, but it's gonna take you an hour to take it all apart.

man, I want a FSJ, there's a FS grand waggy for sale south of town, it's in beautiful shape, like it's been garaged it's whole life. Too bad I'm broke, freaking windows in the house. I could live in a grand waggy.