87manche

bridgestone makes a real nice AT. I'd probably go with truxus mt's, lot's of people I know with those, they ride nice on the street and do well in the rough stuff.

do a compression check on the cylinders and it will tell you more about it's top end health than anything else. If the compression check is good then it's in fine mechanical shape, and you need to start looking at injection issues, or electrical issues.

I've heard MT/R's aren't bad in the snow. I've seen them first hand in mud, and they blow. They clean like an AT.

guessing that you've got + - and a light?

I think that you likely don't have the cable into the back of the guage all the way, or you've got the cable routed with a sharp radius. Pull the cluster, then pull the cable up a little bit, make sure it's not bent sharply anywhere, then reinstall on the cluster.

found it http://www.rockmodified.com/offroad/Tech/TB/tb_perf.htm

everyone that I've seen run an HO throttle body on a renix rig has adapted the renix TPS to the HO TB, rather than adapt the HO TPS to the Renix system. I doubt that it's electrically compatible, everything else chryco changed isn't. There was a writeup on how to modify the renix TPS with a dremel, but I can't find it. It's in te naxja tech archives, so if you're a member there you can get it.

I was looking into a MIG welder for the ease of use, and I have friends with stick welders I can borrow. What kind of current would you recommend to do 1/4" in one pass? I'll be going 220, and the electrical panel for the house is in the shop w/ a 200 amp service. I was thinking something in the 220v/30amp supply range.

I'd probably go megasquirt. infinite adjustability, cheap, uses off the shelf stuff.

you ordered two pair. Yes, it really is that good of a deal.

you're lucky they didn't tag you for failure to display lights as well. It may be light enough to see, but most states require that you have lights on an hour before dusk, and an hour after dawn. That's how it is in OH.

BH: How much ground clearnce/approach angle did that cost you? I was thinking of going that way, and then when I build a front bumper build it off the mounting system for the hitch.

some good info here. Had to go dig around to find it again http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/xj_swap.htm

If not set on the v8 I would seriously consider a 4.3. Same bellhousing pattern as a 350, and it's quite a bit shorter. Still has a decent aftermarket. If you want the uber horsepower then you could find a factory supercharged 4.3 and stuff it in there.

I had the same thing happen to me last night. Rural 2 lane highway, no reason to be going 70. I was cruising along at 55, little white car comes up fast, rides my @$$. Mind you, I've got a gigantic steel bumper at about her head level, and I'm on 34's. I could care less if she rear ended me. I downshifted to 3rd and slowed down to 45, after I got to the double yellow of course :). She got angry, passed me on the double yellow going over a blind hill and sped away. Only to get behind another car a half mile ahead of me that was slowing down for the 35 MPH zone we were about to enter going into town. So tell me, was 5 seconds of time worth risking her life for with a stupid maneuver to get around me? What about risking someone else's life if she hit them head on doing 70? Some people are just stupid, I do my best to avoid them on the highway.

not to mention that mounted in single shear like that isn't the best for the trackbar mount. If you flexed to the point of binding the heim you'll tranfer all that stress to the botl and the mount. It will either break the bolt, or tear the mount out of the unibody.

not true anymore. the feds cracked down on it after Ford made that the stock exhaust location on the f150 in the 90's. That's what the muffler guy told me when I tld him to turn down my exhaust after the muffler. He did it anyway, but cautioned that the police might take issue. I figure there's enough 1/2 body lifted chebbies with glass packs dumping onto the pavement that they wouldn't worry bout me. anyway, I did away with al the muffler back there because I figured that would happen. A decent muffler and a straight turn down before the axle is how I'm rolling. Haven't had any fume problems, and you can see that the exhaust is exiting out the back of the truck now that it's gotten colder.

I'd vote for the 5.0 simply for size reasons. the 302 is a pretty small v8.

I like how it looks painted up to the beltline. My MJ may just end up like that this weekend.

Automotive engineers apparently disagree, since back in the 60s and 70s cars came with ammeters, then they switched to voltmeters because they thought they were more informative. If I had my druthers, I'd ask for both. true, but I've had batteries that would appear to be charged, but suck the life out of the alternator because of a bad cell.

are the uppers still connected? If so, then get yourself a big pipe wrench, put it on the tube, and you can use a jack to lever the axle into position for the lca's./ Easy as pie.

mj's use two differnet flashers, and the power runs from the hazard flasher to the blinker flasher at the fuse box IIRC. I'd check grounds, especcially at the front sockets.

?

your Eagles suspension was nothing like the Jeep suspension up front, Eagles were IFS. Things to deal with when lifting the front 5 link. Stock arms at that height will pull the wheel way back in the wheel well. You're caster angle will be horrible. Caster is a big reason why people get DW. The ride will be horrible, the arms were designed to be parallel to the ground, at those angles the bushings will take a beating. The track bar will need to be lengthened to recenter the axle under the truck. You'll likely be near the maximum travel for the TRE's in the stock y-link, so they will wear faster. That's about the list. recommend: drop brackets to solve the wheel well clearance, control arm and caster issues. adjustable trackbar. upgraded steering.

Could always just keep the stock overload leaf, it's so thick it might as well be part of the perch.