87manche

best explained with pictures https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html

not that I know of, however, I "believe" that you can use the bellhousing from an early 90's dakota, as they had the AX-15 as well.

http://novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_153_aw4.htm call them if you have any questions, very helpful.

check the harmonic balancer as well. When they seperate they get into the front cover on the motor and wear a hole in it.

don't forget that you could also sell that one to the XJ guys, so there's probably more market than you think for that.

http://www.tomken.com/detail.php?id=120 $325. seems a bit steep for what it is. good score for what Jeff paid though.

drop brackets lower the mounting point of the arm, so a shorter arm is needed. They basically put the geometry back to stock, only 4 inches below factory.

I can tell you how far a dana axle will run on the highway without gear lube. About 20 miles. then the pinion bearings die. But seriously, who needs a pinion bearing? by die, I mean seize themselves so hard that it stops the truck, and you'll toast the clutch trying to make it move again on the side of the road. having your driveshaft lock up at 40 MPH isn't a pleasant experience.

No MAF, uses a MAP sensor. anyway, my 2 cents. Heat soked component somewhere, could be a sensor, could be the ignition module itself. Warm it up, pull a spark plug wire and check for spark. if it's got spark then the ignition side is good, move on to fuel pressure.

I can tell you how far a dana axle will run on the highway without gear lube. About 20 miles. then the pinion bearings die.

hammered rustoleum is where it's at for wheels. ask the honda guys ;)

been looking on the bay. ricers got all sorts. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WHEEL-AD ... 6239QQrdZ1

info on those wheel spacers? I don't want to spend what spidertrax wants.

all 3 tranny's have less than a 1" difference in length between them so the rear shaft from a similarly equipped MJ should work. very good then. Also, pay attention to the input shaft when you get a t-case. lot's of variations through the years. If you don't get the right one you'll need a new input gear.

I made mine similar to petes, only I used the stock brackets cut down, and angle iron for the mounts on the bumper side of things. Mine is behind the sheetmetal, cause I like to back into things and wanted to try and protect my tail lights from the evil trees. you can see it in profile there. I don't have any pictures of the back of the MJ. I can get some more pics of the mounting if you want them.

that's because the pinion only gets oil when you're driving, and the ring gear slings it up there through the oil passages.

where does the oil come from? the cover? the pinion? or one of the axle tubes?

I'm not sure he's sure what he's got. the sig says a 4.0 with a 4spd. unless it's an automatic that isn't right. If you really did have a 4.0 with 4.10's and a manual trans it would be plenty quick.

How do I tell if it's the VC one? i think that one is the 249 but I'm not sure. someone else probly knows for sure... but of course it was offered behind a v8 so it can't be that bad :dunno: the grand cherokee one is indeed a 249. I don't believe it has a fully locked low range, hence the suckage. That and the viscous coupling is about $200 to replace when it goes bad. The 231 and 242 are virtually the same dimensions. if you're using your original driveshaft in the rear it will need cut down. If you have a donor 4x4 MJ it may work, I'm not sure how the length of the 3550 compares to the AX-15/BA10.

damn, wish I could've found a deal like that. would have made great road tires.

spicer part number is 2-2-1379 that's the 1310 flange adapter. Pinion length is a little longer on the 8.8 with the flange adapter, so you'll have to be lifted a few inches or shorten the driveshaft. Brakes: I plan on attempting it witl the stock master/propo valve. If it doesn't work I'll remove the spring and o ring from the propo valve. If that doesn't work I'll go get a ZJ valve, cause they had discs from the factory. You will need spacers in the rear if you want to run stock wheels. Don't worry about the offset, that's a problem for wranglers because they have such a short driveshaft. Since our driveshaft is 6 feet long it's not an issue.

well, that's what lift and bumpstopping is for. Think about it like this, you'll have 5 inches more room between the wheel and the fender than you have now. You need to bumpstop anyway to keep from damaging springs. go with a shallower wheel, bumpstop it and you'll be set. I ran 34's on a 3" lift. 32's on a 5" lift should require any cutting. Hell, XJ guys are running 35's on 5" lifts.

nope. you can get crown auto ones for about $20 a piece. 1984-98 FRONT LOWER ARM (INCLUDES BUSHING) 52001162 $21.95 from here: http://www.thejeep.com/onlinecatalog/p122.htm

I think that with an 11.5" wide tire I'd go with more backspacing that stock, or at the very least some spacers. my 10.5's rub in the back on the frame when I flex it.

that might do it. Here's a basic run down of the front suspension system in a modern 5 link jeep. The Lower and upper control arms locate the axle in the wheelwell. This is mostly accomplished by the lowers, with the uppers controlling the caster and the axlewrap. The trackbar centers the axle under the truck. You don't have rack and pinion steering, just a good old fashoined steering box and draglink. The draglink mounts to the pitman arm on the steering box on the frame end, and to the tie rod on the axle side. The factory Jeep steering is what we call an inverted Y, because the drivers side knuckle is connected to the draglink, and the draglink connects to the passenger side knuckle.