87manche

I was going to do wheel spacers on my 8.8, but the stock wheels don't rub. Now, I did find that stock STEEL wheels hit the caliper with the welds that hold the center to the rim, but my stock alloys clear no problem. I flexed it all out, and with my 31's, and the axle stuffed to the bumpstop they will rub on the frame. they fit well enough for sterrt rubber, and the 34's are on 3.75" BS rims.

yeah, I did the same thing to my fuel gauge when I took it apart to clean it. just needed to be very careful when pushing it back.

the skyjacker rear shocks are short. I have the same lift. Even before I did a 1" shackle the skyjacker shocks were too short to really work the rear suspension. Solution? longer shocks, or relocating the lower shock mount to the tube.

TNT all the way :nuts: I think that Rock Krawler is one other option it will push the front axle forward about an inch or so I'm not a big fan of the rockcrawler arms. I'd rip those off. Our breakover angle is kinda sucky if you haven't noticed, so any system with mounts that are below the frame rail is likely to get you hung up.

I don't think anyone makes one for a shortbed, but I bet you could make it work. hopefuly jeff pipes in, he got pongs old bumper (LWB) and adapted it to his shortbed. some cutting was needed.

hitch for the rear, or build your own bumper, that's about it.

8.8 swap is not difficult, you just need the mopar spring perches and the spicer flange adapter for the pinion. brakes are awesome, I can lock up all 4 when I please. 8.8 get's my vote, simply because of the disc brakes. some 1" wheel spacers takes care of the width issue.

jeff, I've got a known good temp sender for my 87. I replaced it because I thought the gauge was wrong, turns out my 4.0 really does like to run at 180*.

I too am interested, I need the maroon bucket covers. FWIW I considered the wet okole covers, they're $200 but waterproof and nice looking, http://www.wetokole.com/JC.html

I'm going to say front, I typically would be in CW's camp, the MJ is getting one only in the rear. I chose front because you've got a D35 in the rear, why bother spening money on it? The front d30 is more likely to survive locked, and if you break a front shaft while wheeling you can just use a spare stub shaft to get home with, unlike the c-clip rear. if you had any other axle I'd say rear.

I would say that the 20 year old wiring harness "may" have a little added resistance due to corrosion. ohm out the wire to the sender and see what you get. should be near 0.

I don't know the socal people that well, sorry to hear that. if you were in the MWC you would have been welcomed, and probably woken up with a sheep in your tent ;)

but do you really want to take it to bare metal? if you're just trying to scuff the paint, go get the black 3m paint remover. It's like a scotch brite, but on a wheel. I used it when I repainted my roof.

i'm sure mine would as well, but the jeep starts before then.

mine sweeps to the right when cranking, it will hit about 260. as soon as the starter is released it pops back down to the left. sounds to me like you've got a bit more resistance than you should have in the circuit, and that would cause it to read high.

you can still get access to all of the tech forums, with the exception of advanced fab. I see a lot of people bitching about this, but not a lot of people understanding that NAXJA is a Jeep club, not just an internet message board like Pirate. NAXJA has real world expenses, insurance and taxes, not just the message board. I like what's been done, I feel that the message board should be there to support the club, not a club supporting a message board.

there was a thread posted in off topic 2 weeks ago, it was brought to the top 4 or 5 times. and it was made a sticky at the top of every forum 6/20.

syn gear oil is just fine. I'd use it if it didn't get changed so often.

87's didn't have it, put in starting 88 to quiet the pump.

I've liked my skyjacker hydros, cheap and effective, although there seems to be just a tad too much rebound in the back end.

yeah 500 ft lbs seems WAY high. FWIW I don't think it will be a problem so long as the bearing drag is in spec. It is after all just a piece of weak steel. When I did the pinion seal in the D35 I just torqued it down to 250 ft lbs and called it a day. of course, that axle exploded a year later, but I think that was more because of usage than setup.

http://www.tntcustoms.com/webv5/xjylinksystem.asp

a decent explorer pack shoult net about a 1" drop... i say decent b/c we've all seen the random ones that have thick 4 leaf packs and overload and then the ones with 1 leaf!?!?! whats up with that? but the good pack is about 1" drop bolt in. that's the plan when I go SOA, don't wanna mess with the 4" of lift I've got up front. exploder packs.

problem with the grinder is that it heats up the sheetmetal, and then the paint next to the cut line bubbles. At least that's what happened when I cut the front fenders with a grinder.

the pictures that I have seen show them notching out one of the cab supports so they can slip the TNT piece behind it. I don't think cutting the TNT piece is an option, since it's one of the brackets that bolts the crossmember in place.