Lenard

I will not even attempt to provide a definitive answer to this. You can think about it -- the "normal" position is horizontal, so if the bed drops when loaded, the arm gets pushed up. How much for full braking? I don't have a clue. Further, as far as I am concerned once the link has been removed ... all bets are off. The factory service manual procedure for adjusting it calls for a special gauge, and there's a spring or something (sorry, I'm going from memory here, not reading the book) that has to be replaced EACH TIME an adjustment is made. If the arm on yours is hanging loose, you have no way of knowing if it has been rotated clockwise, counterclockwise, one time or three times, or whatever. The height sensing valve in my '88 blew out when I had to make a panic stop two or three years ago. After experiencing that, I do not trust them. They are all +/- 20 years old at this point. There's no way to test them for integrity, and you can't buy a new one. My suggestion is to eliminate it completely, run ONE new steel line from the front to the rear of the truck and connect directly into the rear flex hose. That gives you 100% rear brakes all the time. If that's too much, then you can put a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve into the steel line to the rear. ok thanks

not if i get it first :D :rotf:

How important it is depends on what position it's in when it's NOT connected. What that thing does is to limit (reduce) the amount of braking pressure that goes to the rear wheels when the pickup bed is unloaded, because when the back end is light it's easy to lock up the rear wheels and spin out. As you add weight in the bed, the bed squats down on the suspension, which has the effect of the rod from the differential pushing up the arm of the valve to allow more braking ... which you need with more weight in the truck. If it's disconnected, it might be in the position that allows full braking force to the rear ... in which case you'll have great brakes but you'll have to watch out for lockup and spinout. Or it could be in the position that allows NO braking to the rear -- in which case you will be doing ALL your driving using front brakes only. Your stopping distances will be increased over what they should be, you'll use up front pads rather quickly ... but your rear brake shoes will last (literally) forever. which position does it need to be in to be putting full braking power to the rear wheels?

:hijack: how important is it to have the proportioning valve hooked up? :roll: cause mine isnt :oops:

And people wonder why our country is so messed up :doh:

Thought you guys might enjoy this :rotf: DARK SUCKERS For years, it has been believed that electric bulbs emit light, but recent information has proved otherwise. Electric bulbs don't emit light; they suck dark. Thus, we call these bulbs Dark Suckers. The Dark Sucker Theory and the existence of dark suckers prove that dark has mass, is heavier than light, and is faster than light. First, the basis of the Dark Sucker Theory is that electric bulbs suck dark. For example, take the Dark Sucker in the room you are in. There is much less dark right next to it than there is elsewhere. The larger the Dark Sucker, the greater its capacity to suck dark. Dark Suckers in the parking lot have a much greater capacity to suck dark than the ones in your room. As it is with all things, Dark Suckers don't last forever. Once they are full of dark, they can no longer suck. This is proven by the dark spot on a full Dark Sucker. A candle is a primitive Dark Sucker. A new candle has a white wick. You can see that after the first use, the wick turns black, representing all the dark that has been sucked into it. If you put a pencil next to the wick of an operating candle, it will turn black. This is because it got in the way of the dark flowing into the candle. One of the disadvantages of these primitive Dark Suckers is their limited range. There are also portable Dark Suckers. In these, the bulbs can't handle all the dark by themselves and must be aided by a Dark Storage Unit. When the Dark Storage Unit is full, it must be either emptied or replaced before the portable Dark Sucker can operate again. Dark has mass. When dark goes into a Dark Sucker, friction from the mass generates heat. Thus, it is not wise to touch an operating Dark Sucker. Candles present a special problem as the mass must travel into a solid wick instead of through clear glass. This generates a great amount of heat and therefore it's not wise to touch an operating candle. Also, dark is heavier than light. If you were to swim just below the surface of the lake, you would see a lot of light. If you were to slowly swim deeper and deeper, you would notice it getting darker and darker. When you get really deep, you would be in total darkness. This is because the heavier dark sinks to the bottom of the lake and the lighter light floats at the top. That is why it is called light. Finally, we must prove that dark is faster than light. If you were to stand in a lit room in front of a closed, dark closet, and slowly opened the closet door, you would see the light slowly enter the closet. But since dark is so fast, you would not be able to see the dark leave the closet. Next time you see an electric bulb, remember that it is really a Dark Sucker. Now you know.

ok , got it changed, works great now! :D and it sure looked good coming out of the box, white as could be, by the time i got done changing it though, it looked like the old one :doh:

well i checked it, but... my VC does leak some but not enough for what was covering the underside of the truck. I felt the back of the engine with my hand, and there is dirt and crap back there saturated with oil, but just not enough to convince me thats it. :???:

Kansas City Kansas

ok ill check, thanks

I check oil once a week, my motor uses in 7 days anywere from a 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart of oil, and it either goes out the pcv valve or back of the engine. I checked oil sunday, filled it, got curious checked it yesterday, a whole quart low, and i had emptyed the bottle from the pcv sunday and there was hardly anything in there. got to walking round the truck noticed my tail gate and bumper had oil spots all over, crawled underneath, and from the back of the cab to the back of engine, covered in oil (dripping), from back of cab to back of truck, has oil spots all over. Checked oil filter its not leaking, so...i guess ill be seeing the local mechanic this weekend.... :wall:

The black one or the Silverish Blue? Ya i thought about chasing down the sliver one but quicktrip just wasnt quick enough that time. :rotfl2:

I'm sorry to hear that Correy. :(

i tried to, but everytime i hit the send button, it says windows needs to be "debugged" and shuts down every thing :fs1: I tried twice, then said screw it! I hate computers :headpop: :rant:

Saw a beautiful silverish blue MJ with some kinda fancy blue stripes running down the side, driving on Front street here in Kansas city yesterday, truck was stock height, but looked imaculant.(sp?) :drool: anybody up here know who that might be? Also while I'm at it when i was up here signing up for college couple months back there was a black 91 4x4 4.0L with crome details here in the schools parking lot...it was also in very good shape.. just wondering if it was anybody on here

ok, help the slow kid here, were it says vinyl color, does that mean the color of the whole sticker? and if i want it pissing on the ford emblem do i type "Ford" in the white box underneath the color box? :huh???:

i didnt know you could house train a rabbit......thats cool :cheers:

ok thanks guys, i hope to get that changed this weekend :thumbsup:

my coolant bottle is cracked on my truck, i plan on going to the pick-n-pull this week to get another one, if i can't find a good one out of a xj, what is the best donor to look for that as one that will work for my mj?

ok thanks pete no, but i know it reads 5-6mph under. :smart: Unless your speedometer is broken it will not read 5-6mph or whatever under, it will read a certain percentage under(or over) your real speed! Just to keep it simple, lets say you measure with GPS your speed to be 50mph and your speedo shows 45mph, then accelerate until your GPS shows 100, at that speed your speedometer should show 90mph. This means your real speed are 10% faster than what your speedometer shows! The same comes to your odometer, quite important when you measure youre gas milage. And I have heard that you get the best gas milage at peak torque rpm...theoreticaly! It makes sense but peak torque are, from what i know, only measured at full throttle and who measure they mpg at full throttle?? There must be something more to it, I don't hestitate that my MJ would get great mpg around 2400rpm (peak torque rpm with a renix), but no way that i would run my volvo at 4800rpm (peak torque rpm with my swedish brick DD) for more than a few seconds!! ok makes sense, the speed boxs on the hwy say 70 when my spedo says 65, but if i run like 20 according to my spedo the box say 15mph

Me to :cheers: if i didnt know better, i might think you have a obsession :yes:

i know but not real sure how to add it up right. :oops:

no, but i know it reads 5-6mph under.

ok thanks guys, makes sense to me :D When i first got this one back in march, i was able to get the high side of 20 mpg, but with bigger tires its around 16ish now 8) but I'm sure with city driving and my lead foot it don't help it either :cheers: