Eagle

Put the pickup tube in the freezer overnight. Put the pump body in the oven for an hour or so at about 250 degrees.

Not sure why this 4-month old thread suddenly got revived, but since I missed it the first time around I'll chime in here. First point: The Renix ECU doesn't "learn" anything. It has no static memory. Every start is a new start. A start that dies after a few seconds usually indicates a faulty fuel pump ballast resistor. The start circuit bypasses the resistor, which allows the engine to start. When the key is moved back to the RUN position, if the ballast resistor is bad the fuel pump can't run, so the engine sputters along until it has used up whatever fuel it received during the START cycle, and that's all she wrote. 2360, the ballast resistor on a 1988 is on the inside of the driver's side fender, next to the air box. Try removing the spade connectors and jumping them together. See of that allows the engine to keep running.

I guess I need to pull the drive train out of my '86 XJ 2.5L before I send the hulk to the boneyard.

Those bosses look inherently stronger than the motor mount bosses, and I'm sure the motor mount bolts impart much more load on the mounting bosees. BTW -- where'd you get a photo of a 4.2L block?

Well, I'm such a knuckle-dragging Neanderthal that I don't do Twitter, so the fact he has a Twitter feed doesn't impress or inform me.

So many questions. This should probably have been posted as several individual questions, but here goes: Oil in the air filter is caused by engine blowby. There's always some, and the CCV system (the 4.0L doesn't have a PCV valve) can handle it when the engine is new and the blowby is minimal. As the engine wears, the amount of blowby increases until, eventually, the CCV system can't handle it. At that point, the excess blowby pressurizes the crankcase, and the back pressure then blows oily fumes back through what is supposed to be the air intake from the valve cover to the air box. If you're having a problem, I'd suggest doing a compression test and a leak-down test. Air from the defroster vents is the default position. If you have air from the defrost vents when the controls are set for something else, you have a vacuum leak. There is a vacuum reservoir (or should be) located behind the front bumper, on the right hand side. Often the vacuum line to that reservoir rots where it passes under the battery tray. Or, your reservoir may be cracked and incapable of holding vacuum. Replace your thermostat, and be sure your cooling system is properly filled. Yes, there should be backup lights. The clear section in each taillight is the backup lights.

Not possible. The CPS is not past of the flex plate, and there is no flex plate "assembly." A '93 flex plate would not work with a Renix ignition/injection system. The two systems operate on different principles and are not compatible.

My question was -- and is -- addressed to KyleStock. He made reference to " the brand and its design relative to similar rigs from other automakers." Before responding to his question, I think we need to know what vehicles he includes in that "similar rigs from other automakers" category.

Factory optional heavy-duty axle, 1984-1986.

What do you consider to be a vehicle from any other manufacturer that is similar to a Jeep?

So it's down 3/4 of an inch. Not terrible for a 30 year old vehicle. Certainly not cause to replace them.

Since there are no relays involved in any of the above, follow the first couple of suggestions. First check fuses, then check multi-function switch.

XJ leaves are always inverted. They're designed that way. Take everything out of the back. Measure from the center of the wheel/hub/axle straight up to the bottom edge of the flare. You're looking for 17 inches.

No need -- you are correct. The factory white wagon wheels had a pinstripe. BTW -- You do realize that this thread is over 5 years old, right?

No. Look at an XJ that has the operable vents. There's a metal track along part of the lower edge of the glass. That's the problem. Where the metal track/frame ends, there's a step. It isn't possible to mold the rubber seal with a step that perfectly aligns with the step from the metal track to the exposed glass edge. This is where they leak -- at the point of that step.

If I remember correctly, Hornbrod used a steering wheel out of (I think) a Buick in his truck. I know it's from some GM car, not from an AMC or Jeep vehicle. Here it is -- Buick Regal:

Absolutely on the shock when touched. I don't think they should arc if sprayed, but I'm not certain about that.

$200 seems fair. Several years ago I paid $500 for one, but the one I got was rust-free, had no dents, and was complete with tailgate and taillights.

Converting Victor's numbers to the metric fuel consumption system, 10 liters for 68 km extrapolates to 14.7 liters per 100 km, which isn't too far behind the second of your two figures. I think that's rather poor fuel mileage for a 2.5L MJ, but at least Victor now knows that he is not the only person getting such numbers.

Normally I would agree with Smokeyyank and advise you not to bother with the XJ Dana 35. But -- since you already have it, and you're not looking for a lift so I assume your MJ is stock and not running huge tires, the Dana 35 should be okay. The one in my '88 XJ has gone 287,000 miles, and that includes having wheeled it at Paragon Offroad Park a number of times, as well as fire roads and such around New Mexico. Dzimm posted a diagram with the key information. Bottom line is that you will need to weld perches onto the XJ axle to exactly match the location and angle/orientation of the MJ axle. You can either cut off the existing perches and relocate them, or buy new ones. You'll have to cut them off to avoid interference with the U-bolts, so IMHO you might as well cut them off neatly and reuse them.

Bienvenido. 68 km is 42 miles, and 10 liters is 2.64 gallons. Your fuel consumption in the terms we use in the U.S. is 15.9 miles per gallon (MPG). That's pretty bad for a 2.5L. Even a 4.0L should deliver better fuel economy than that. However, you mentioned a big mountain. That doesn't help.

Dexron/Mercon

It may fit, physically, but it almost certainly won't balance. The GM 2.8L V6 version that GM sold to AMC/Jeep was externally balanced. There's no way an externally balanced V6 would use the same damper as an in-line 4 cylinder.

From the 1986 Jeep parts catalog: There are two dampers listed. J324 2885 is the damper for 1983-1986 without serpentine belt. J324 2857 is for 1983 with serpentine belt. J324 2886 is for 1984-1986 with serpentine belt. For the GM 4-cylinder (used 1981-1983): J813 2264 So ... nowhere does the Jeep 2.5L damper cross with either the GM 4-cylinder engine or the Jeep 4.2L engine.

I was looking in the 1987-1990 parts catalog. Interestingly, there's a different part number for the 2.5L damper in the Wrangler YJ. That part number is J324 2885 ... the damper for the 2.5L in the XJ/MJ is J324 2886. The damper for the 4.0L is 3300 2920. The damper for the 4.2L is J323 7196 with the V-belt pulley, and J323 7723 with the serpentine belt.