Eagle

You don't have to drain the system. Just pull the old stuff out of the master, refill, and bleed normally until you see the new stuff coming out the other end. But ... I don't know if synthetic brake/clutch fluid is any less corrosive than plain old DOT 3 or DOT 4. I didn't say "synthetic," I said "silicone." It's rated DOT 5, it doesn't attack paint or electrical contact, it's non-hygroscopic (doesn't attract and hold water molecules) ... and it's expensive. But the clutch system doesn't hold a lot. Since I use it in the brakes anyway, I don't worry about the cost.

Worst case, add a relay. If the lead coming from the switch puts out enough to operate the relay, then you'll get full power to the pump motor. If that doesn't work, then just add a toggle switch to operate the relay.

Right. A standard vehicle-mount CB, even the compact models, puts out a full 5 watts. That's the maximum they can legally use. The hand-helds, depending on brand and model, are either 2 watts or 1/2 watt. My first was a compact Radio Shack model. I took it along on a cross-country trip about ten years ago and in the mid-west I was getting out a verified 13 miles using a Radio Shack gutter-mount antenna. That's good enough for me. Sure beats not being able to talk to the big rigs 200 yards away from the Wally World parking lot.

So, Rob, when did DRLs become mandatory in Canada? Your truck is an '89 -- I thought they were mandatory by then. Was your module removed by a previous owner, or did the requirement kick in later than '89?

Consider everywhere it sits to not be pretty, whether it's electronics or paint. True enough. Paint can be repainted. It eats away the copper on the contacts and leaves the entire fuse panel essentially toast. Not a major PITA to replace (if you happen to have a spare fuse panel on the shelf), but certainly a PITA of some order of magnitude when the problem can (and should) be avoided.

I am confused. What do you mean it "chugs but won't turn over"? Turning over means that the starter is making the engine go around. Do you mean it turns over but won't fire? If so, have you checked for spark? Have you checked to see if the injector is squirting gas into the throttle body? Basically, you need three things for it to run: fuel, air, and spark. Air is usually not the problem, so investigate whether or not you have the other two.

Comanches never came with daytime running lights... Rob is in Canada. DRLs are mandatory in Canada, going back to slightly after the Big Bang.

The one you need to watch, though, is the clutch master cylinder. When they leak, the fluid runs back along the operating rod and drips onto the fuse panel. What brake fluid does to electrical contacts is ... not pretty. That's just one of the reasons I run silicone brake fluid in my clutches.

Is it cast, or is it forged? (I'm asking ... I don't know. If it's forged, it's gonna be a helluva lot stronger than that stamped POS on the non-disconnect axles)

Nope, there is no adjustment. Bleeding might make the pedal better, but after sitting for ten years it may need a new master and slave cylinder.

I don't have first-hand experience, but a couple of the guys in my NAXJA chapter have used them. Range is very limited. I bought one at a Wal-Mart a few years ago (don't recall the brand), took it out to the parking lot, which is about 200 yards from I-95, and fired it up for a radio check. NO RESPONSE. I turned right around, went back inside and got a refund. I use a compact size regular CB. It fits nicely in the ashtray indentation. I run it with a magnetic mount antenna and a plug to the cigarette lighter, so it's easily removeable when I don't want/need it. And it's FAR better than a hand-held.

Because I either haven't seen them, or couldn't afford to buy them.

Rausch Creek is just a couple of exits farther south off I-81, but it's a smaller park and doesn't have developed campgrounds anywhere nearby. Paragon was also close enough to Hazleton that there were some motels not too far away -- I don't know what's near Rausch Creek. Nonetheless, it looks like Rausch Creek is going to be the default location for wheeling in that area..

The local Wal-Marts around here are selling a couple of models of Toshiba. I haven't bought a new one for awhile but I have always had good luck with Toshibas and lousy luck with Dells. I just had a visit from a Greek friend who is an IT guy -- his new notebook was a Toshiba that looked suspiciously like the ones I saw in Wal-Mart. He said the only difference was hard drive capacity (his was the next increment larger).

I cannot understand Jeepers' fascination with "high flow" exhaust systems. Headers, high flow cats, 2-1/2" cat back exhausts -- that sort of modification is beneficial in a race vehicle, where you routinely operate the engine at and above 6,000 RPM. The torque peak on the Jeep 4.0L engine is (depending on year) between 2,000 and 3,500 RPM. Highway cruise in my '88 with 5-speed is between 1600 and 1750 RPM. When I ran a 2-1/2" turbo muffler cat back on my XJ I LOST low end torque, which means driveability was worse and gas mileage was worse. I was very happy when it rusted out and I had an excuse to go back to OEM replacement 2-1/4" components. If there's a premium attached to somebody's so-called "high flow" catalytic converter, it isn't worth it unless you run a race truck. It will NOT benefit you on the street.

Not on an '88. The Renix system uses a dedicated sensor in the back corner of the head for the temp gauge, and a separate sensor down on the left (driver's) side of the block to feed the ECU.

Scott -- What about the firewall? Did you have to modify (as in hammer) that at all?

Just about any cat you can buy will be a "high flow." They all have a 2-1/2" core and neck down to 2-1/4" after they exit. No, they aren't louder -- the muffler is what controls the noise.

Hey, it ain't ridin' on the overload leaf, so how bad can it be? Don't toss the old springs when they come out. Somebody, some day, will be looking to do a home-brew AAL. In fact, I was given a pair of MJ springs in which one had a broken leaf. If nobody else speaks for your old ones, I might be interested. Putting the two sets together might yield something usable.

Silicone-based paint? Never heard of it. I have heard of using graphite-containing paint on springs and I think it's a great idea. But I have no idea where to find it. I'd use several coats of brush-on Rustoleum. If you can get the teflon pads, go for it. They make the ride smoother and help the springs live longer. (I don't know about prospering, though.)

Throttle position sensor (TPS) and/or idle air controller (IAC) dirty. Cleaning might do it, but replacement may be in your future.

Keep an eye on it. It could also be an intermittent gremlin. A couple of years ago my wife bought a new (used) car. It had a taillight problem. She took it to her favorite mechanic to fix (let me note that this was not in the U.S., we were visiting her native country). He fixed it, pronounced it good to go ... and as I followed her back across town in her friend's car the same taillight was blinking on and off. The mechanic had changed the bulb and it worked for him, but the problem was a bad socket and, when the vehicle hit a bump, it would interrupt the contact. A new socket took care of the problem.

First, of course, you'll need bucket seats. Second, I believe you'll need to extend the length of the rod from the brake handle to the "splitter" where the two rear cables attach. I don't remember if you'll also have to modify the bracket that the rod passes through ahead of the splitter.

1/2 x 20

Fuel pump. The ballast resistor would cut power to the pump as soon as you release the key from the START position. The engine will run for a few seconds to maybe a minute on the residual pressure in the lines, but it won't run for 10 minutes with no power to the fuel pump.