Eagle

Sometimes you're just helpless. At the start of the article I was thinking it would be another example of why everyone should get a concealed carry permit and travel armed, but in this case the victim was sucker punched and even carrying a howitzer on his hip wouldn't have helped. I hope a piece of excrement who hit him gets a similarly quick termination to his miserable excuse for a "life."

Go for the reman. I really like the concept of the stroker, and I have a friend who has stroked two 4.0Ls (one XJ and one MJ). You can get gobs of power out of them, but you will NOT match the fuel economy possible with a stock Renix-era 4.0L. When my '88 XJ was new, with a 5-speed I routinely got mid-20s highway mileage and on one trip (with a girlfriend and two young children plus paraphernalia for a long weekend aboard) I notched 28 MPG on a 300 mile trip. Plus, there are numerous compromises you have to evaluate in doing a stroker. Unless you NEED the additional power and torque, going stock is probably the wiser choice.

x2 -- Axle shaft u-joint

I guess I must be getting old faster than I thought, and perhaps senility is catching up with me. I missed something here: If the O2 sensor tests bad (or doesn't test good), WHY would you "assume" that it's good? It was manufactured by humans, right? Ever hear of a defective product before?

"Real" DRL use the headlight high beams, and they do drop the voltage when the lights are in DRL mode. For a show truck (I didn't know that's what you were aiming for), getting the factory module is very much the best way to go. I spent my morning drive to work thinking about how to cobble up a home-brew system that would sort of replicate the function, and by the time you account for voltage-dropping resistors AND enough relays to power the lights up with the ignition, yet NOT backfeed the dash lights and also revert to normal operation with the headlights -- you would have a lot of spaghetti under the hood. If you can't score a factory DRL module, than I would second the above suggestion: use auxiliary lights, and power them through a relay that is activated by some circuit that's switched with the ignition. But I would not use "driving" lights -- those are too bright, and too narrow of a beam. I would use fog lights. In fact, I have an XJ wired up that way, but something went bad and at the moment the lights ... don't.

I'd be interested if it comes with the diesel. But it's not really a "truck," it's a return to the CJ Scrambler concept. Don't count on the "Big C" doing anything, though. Remember, Chrysler killed the Comanche to eliminate competition for the Dodge Dakota, long before Daimler entered the picture.

We live in a VERY sick world. My condolences as well.

The original Trak-Lok in my 88 XJ with a Dana 35 lasted a bit more than 150,000 miles. Change the gear oil in the rear diff, add a new bottle of friction modifier (use the official Mopar stuff, do NOT buy it from an aftermarket source), and drive it 'til it dies.

DRL were used in the Cherokees in Canada but I don't recall how early. It is done with a plug-in module. Should be easy to pull if you have access to a junkyard in Canada, or probably coupld be bought from a Jeep dealer's parts department. DRL use the high beams, not the low beams, and they are voltage reduced. I don't know if it drops as far as 7 volts, though. It might be more like 9 -- in which case a ballast resistor like the one for the fuel pump might do the job. I think I would use the low beams anyway -- I find the DRLs on most GM vehicles to be rather annoying due to the fact they use the high beams. If you need some help working up a circuit that'll do the job, let me know. But I would recommend trying to get the factory module. Just be aware that most folks who have the DRLs find them to be trouble-prone and if not legally required, remove the module rather than replace it.

It's not "more of a limited slip," it IS a limited slip. It's made by Dana-Spicer and it is called a Trac-Lok. It uses a stack of steel shims interleaved with clutch plates under spring tension. The way it works is that normally the spring tension on the clutch plates creates enough friction to keep the two axles "locked." However, in rounding turns on dry pavement, where the outer tire travels farther (and therefore faster) than the inside tire, the unequal rotational speeds generate enough torque to make the clutches slip, allowing the differential to function as a differential. This type of limited slip requires the use of a special additive to keep the clutches happy. Since most owners never serviced the rear axle, the clutches usually wear out after 75,000 to 100,000 miles. After that, it functions like a conventiona, open diff. Rebuild kits are available for around $75. It's a very good option for street use and light wheeling, but it ain't a locker.

Try the suction cup first. If that won't do it, Harbor Freight Tools has a body work stud welder that'll do it. Rather than drill holes to pull the dent, it tack weld studs to the surface. You grab the studs with a slide hamemr puller (supplied with the kit), pull the dent (a little at a time on each stud, you don't try to pull the whole thing on one stud in a single shot), then grind off the studs and refinish. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=3223 Drilling holes is SOOO 1960s ...

Bummer. The old saying was correct: "He who hesitates is lost."

Why don't you just measure it? It takes about 30 seconds, then you'd know instead of guessing. Wheel center straight up to flare. 17-1/2" front, 20" or 20-1/2" rear. Done.

EGR maybe? Also, make certain that the throttle body is tight on the manifold. A small leak at the mounting flange might cause behavior sort of like that, and as the engine warms up the aluminum would expand to make a better seal.

It's not like you're missing anything important, you know. On rare occasion, we Yanks can even revert to English when we need to be understood.

You have already been shown that 31x10.50s will fit the stock suspension. They will ... with stock 15x7 Jeep rims. They WILL rub the lower control arms at full steering lock ... so will 30x9.50s. You either adjust the steering stops, or live with it. Backspacing on the Jeep rims is 5-1/4". There are NO aftermarket 15x8 rims that offer that backspacing. If you use aftermarket rims, the tires WILL extend farther out from the vehicle centerline. This is a problem. On the stock rims, 31x10.50s will tuck up (just barely) inside the stock flares when the front suspension is compressed. If you use rims with less backspacing (even 15x7), the tires will hit the flares and rip them apart in short order. This will continue to be the case even after lifting, BTW, unless you extend the bump stops. That solves the problem of hitting the flares -- but you lose suspension travel, so what's the point? In the rear, 31x10.50s will fit on Jeep rims and will tuck inside the flares. They ride VERY close to the frame, and when the suspension gets twisted up you see marks where the top of the tire rubs the inside of the wheelwell. A bit less backspacing would help that, but then you're back to hitting the flares. Running 30x9.50s gains an extra half inch of clearance there. I just ran the 31s and accepted the occasional rubbing. It didn't seem to hurt anything.

Doesn't look even close to stock height. The correct measurement is from the centerline of the axle (hub cap, or whatever) straight up to the bottom edge of the flare. The measurement should be 17-1/2" for the front, and for an MJ about 20" or 20-1/2" for the rear. At stock height, 31s in the front should look like they were really stuffed in there. Your truck visually looks like at least a 2" to 3" lift.

Any chance we could take up a collection and buy all three bins? It's great to save 133 sets, but that still means 266 sets are being crushed. If they're going to crush them anyway, it would seem like any bid at all is gravy for them. I'll take a pair, BTW. Also ... you said three of the four bins had MJ tail lights. What's in the 4th bin?

Plan? Why do you need a "plan"? They told you to take two days to think about where you want to be in the company, right? So, when you go back in ... tell them. Where you want to be is NOT in the lab, but back out where you were hired to work. Tell them you left your previous job to work for them so you would NOT be in a lab. By the way -- you really do need to talk to an emplyment attorney. You are getting SCREWED on wages and hours. Do you understand about straight time and overtime, and "exempt" vs non-exempt? If you are being paid any way other than "salary" (which means your paycheck is always the same, no matter how many hours or days you work in a pay period), you are subject to both state and Federal laws regarding overtime. And I'm certain that if you check into it, you will quikcly find that for anything more than 8 hours in any one day or 40 hours in any one week, they must pay you time-and-a-half. "Exempt" means that you are exempt from the overtime payment requirements and they can treat you as salaried. But the requirements for who is exempt are very strictly spelled out, and if they can chew you out and suspend you for two days over the incident you described -- you are not a salaried, "exempt" employee ... no matter what they try to claim. Look into it, amigo, because if you have any plans to remain with this company, you had better get the ground rules straight at the beginning or you'll be letting them keep their hand in your pocket for however long you work there. I've been there ahead of you. I quit what was supposed to be the "perfect" new job after 7 months, over "stuff" much like what you describe. Remember, I said I quit -- I wasn't fired, layed off, or any other such euphemism for being canned. Yet I filed for unemplyment and I got it, because the chicken $#!& they threw at me was so egregious that the hearing officer ruled they had forced me to quit. In employment law lingo, that's called (apparently) a "constructive discharge." Then, as he was folding up his files, the hearing officer also told me that the way they had been paying me was illegal and that they owed me a pile of overtime. He referred me to the Wages and Hours complaint department, I gave them the facts, and a few months later I received a check for $1400. Do not be a doormat. They will use you to whatever extent you allow them to use you.

Ah -- A furriner amongst us. "Cat" is American slang for "catalytic converter." If they get clogged, they build up back pressure in the exhaust, which translates into loss of power and other disadvantageous symptoms.

And the O-ring gasket isn't going to fix it, anyway. The problem is almost certainly going to be the aforementioned stress crack where the metal lines go through the metal mounting flange for the fuel pump assembly. The best you can do is clean it down as well as possible from the outside and apply either a gasoline-resistant RTV or an epoxy paste of some type around the lines to try to seal them to the flange.

i THINK he's talkin about the connector from the CPS to the harness... try electrical contact cleaner in there and a good shaking. (oh and make sure to plug it back in No, he's not. The C101 connector is located high on the firewall, above the brake booster vacuum reservoir. The entire engine harness goes into it before going through the firewall to the ECU. There is a known problem with the early Renix ('86 thru mid-89) harness losing the CPS signal. Jeep sells a replacement CPS that comes with a 2-wire harness. You abandon the stock harness, drill a hole through the firewall for the new harness, and run the two wires directly to the ECU. That may or may not correct the problem. It always has for me in the past. However, the curremt no spark with the '88 MJ that isn't the problem. The new CPS is only generating 0.23 volts and it should be generating 0.5 to 0.8 volts. But the dealership won't acknowledge that there's anything wrong with the part, so I'm sort of, errr ... screwed.

Sounds like you have too much time on your hands. For the dash, why not get the "business end" of a right-hand drive XJ and use that for the passenger side? Splice the two down the center, as you've described, and it'll be mirror image. There are some right-hand drive XJs around that are or were in service with the Postal Service.

The backfiring could simply be caused by old, stale gasoline. The first thing I would do is ensure that there's fresh gas in the tank.

Yes, in an Eagle. Pre-'83 isn't an XJ or MJ.