Eagle

That's my point. Why go through all the work if you're NOT creating at least an extra cab? Doesn't make eny sense to me.

So have I. It wasn't pretty ...

If the fan doesn't blow even on high speed (which uses no resistors), most likely the brushes are worn out and the fan is kaput. It happens. I'm on the third one in the '88 Cherokee. Easy to check -- just unplug the connector feeding the fan under the hood and hot wire it. If it still doesn't spin -- it's time for a replacement blower.

If it's just clicking and not actually turning over, there won't be any spark. Stop getting ahead of yourself and verify what's actually happening. When the key is turned to the START position, if the fan isn't rotating then the engine isn't turning over. No spark is possible if it isn't turning over.

:huh???: :huh???: :huh???: So you're going through all this work to create a truck that will have zero utilitarian cargo capacity? Methinks you have too much free time available.

Nice idea, but as long as you're doing all that cutting and fitting, I think it would be better to either keep the MJ doors and add quarter windows behind the B pillar, or extend the can even more to get some real space behind the seats. How much longer are the 2-door doors than the stock MJ doors? Maybe 4 inches? I'm sure it isn't more than 6 inches. For that tiny extra length it isn't even worth the effort to shorten the front of the bed. I wouldn't bob it, either, but if you want the improved departure angle, have fun with the sawzall. But the one factor that caused me to buy a new XJ in 1988 rather than an MJ was the lack of space behind the seat. The amount of stretch you're going to get with the wider doors just isn't enough to qualify as even an extra cab, let alone a crew cab. Consider, too, that you'll just be moving your blind spot a few inches farther back. Adding some quarter windows behind the doors would make life a lot easier and safer if you plan to drive it on the street.

Ya know, XJ (Cherokee) rear shocks might be about right. The upper fitting is a cross-pin, but when that's removed the rubber (plastic) bushing is the correct diameter for the pin mount on an MJ. When I tried to use a set of XJ rears on a stock 2WD MJ, the shock when fully extended was 1/2-inch too short to reach the upper mounting pin when the lower was installed. So on a truck with a 4" drop I think they'd be just about right.

BEFORE you just start changing things, find out what the problem is. From your post, it sounds like you have both no fuel AND no spark. That's so unusual that I think you need to do more checking before you replace anything. First off, replacing the fuel filter periodically is a good idea, but unless it's completely plugged it won't usually prevent starting. The ballast resistor feeds the fuel pump, so it COULD be involved, but it doesn't have anything to do with spark. FUEL * When the key is first turned to ON (not to START), you should hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds. It shuts off when the pressure in the injector rail reaches the operating pressure, so you have to listen the FIRST time you turn on the key. If the fuel pump runs, then check the rail for pressure. * If you do NOT hear the fuel pump and there is no pressure in the rail, crank the engine for a few seconds. Have her do it while you get under the back of the vehicle and listen to the fuel tank. That START circuit by-passes the ballast resistor, so the fuel pump should operate while the engine is cranking. Check the rail again. If still no pressure, it might be the fuel filter but it's more likely the fuel pump. * You can double-check the fuel pump by simply removing the two wires from the ballast resister and connecting them together. Then turn on the ignition (to ON, not to START). You should hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds, until the rail is pressurized. If the fuel pump doesn't run with the ballast resistor by-passed, the problem is likely the fuel pump itself, but it could be in the wiring somewhere downstream from the ballast resistor. You can then get underneath with a test light or multi-meter, unplug the connector near the fuel pump, and check to see if you're getting voltage as far as the connector. Note that so far these tests haven't cost anybody any money. They're just trying to zero in on what and where the problem is.[/u]

They have an extra leaf. I *THINK* the standard MJ springs are 3 leaves plus an overload, and the metric ton springs are 4 leaves plus overload. Pete, is that correct? Or is it 4+1 for the standard and 5+1 for the metric ton?

WTF would anyone want 399 sets of MJ tail lights for a collection?? Unless he's :nuts: . Look for them to turn up on FleaBay soon I bet............... Let's see, 399 x $50 = $19,950. Nice profit. Yup. You can bet they'll be at Carlisle next year.

I KNEW this was going to be a disaster. I just KNEW it! As some of you know, I am the last member of species homo sapiens to still be using a dial-up connection to access the Internet. I was recently informed that AT&T can now provide me with DSL service, so about ten days ago I stopped by one of their storefonts to ask what kind of a deal they could cut for me. Background: I run a home office, so I have 2 phone lines. Line 1 is primarily for voice, line 2 is for fax and Internet. But I have 2-line phones in the office so both lines can be used for voice if line 2 isn't being used for fax on Internet. In addition, I have had AT&T as both my long-dustance phone carrier and my Internet ISP for a number of years. More recently, SBC (which was the provider of my in-state phone service) bought AT&T. So I have been receiving three bills from AT&T every month -- one from the former SBC for each of the lines, and a third from the old AT&T covering Internet and out-of-state long distance for both lines. I explained all this to the twit behind the counter. No problem, says he. Then he goes into a back room to make some phone calls (don't ask why ... he was using a cell phone), then he comes out and says I'm all set. Hmmm ... all I did was ask him for prices, and he went ahead and sold me DSL. I was a bit bothered, but DSL was what I had come in to ask about and it appeared they could give it to me, so I went ahead. I reviewed with him again the phone layout. He said I would need some additional filters (beyond the four or five that come in the kit with the DSL modem/router), but that he had ordered them and they would be sent to me directly. So now, ten days (actually, 12 days) later the additional filters haven't showed up, but I decided to see if things would work without them. So I opened the box and took out the goodies. First thing I noticed ... ALL the filters have only two conducters inside, and they are clearly marked "single line." Which means if I use them, my 2-line phones miraculously become 1-line phones. Not the absolute end of the world as we know it, but not what I wanted, not what I asked about, and not what I was promised. So this afternoon I went back to the AT&T storefront. Naturally, the guy I had dealt with wasn't there. Some other guy waited on me, listened to what I was saying with about 31 percent of his attention span (it was obvious from the glazed look that he didn't understand anything I was saying, didn't give a rat's posterior about MY problem, and just wanted to get me the hell out of the store so he could sell a cell phone to somebody), and just told me to call their 800 service number. I am ripped. Unfortunately, AT&T is the only game in town for DSL, and I refuse to deal with the robbers at the cable company. I either get this working or it goes back to AT&T and I rip some sales drone a new anal orifice. Does anybody out there know anything about this stuff? What are these filters for, and do I really need them? What happens if I don't use them -- do the phones and/or modem explode, or do I just get garbled transmissions if someone tries to talk while the Internet is being used? And once I connect the DSL modem, do I need to install any drivers or anything, or will I automatically be on-line and the browser will see it when I start it up? TIA

Consider that if the yard knows what they have, the rear axle alone is worth $500 to $600. If you can score the entire truck for $500 or less, you've gotten a deal. Especially if they can give you a title to go with it (other than a salvage title, that is). But IMHO it's worth $300 to $500 even w/o a title.

Back at ya. 4th Infantry Division, Pleiku, RSVN

Yup. Good for that, if that's what you need. Doesn't help the hubs to live long and prosper, though.

Try cleaning the idle air controller. Also, consider the throttle linkage. Yeah, I know -- it's a cable. Well, actually it's a cable that connects to a linkage. Stand on the driver's side of the engine bay and look down between the block and the inner fender. Below the exhaust manifold there's a bellcrank. Twice with my '88 XJ I have had to liberally spritz that bit of linkage with penetrating oil to free it up and cure a sticking throttle.

Chrysler 8.25

What's wrong with doing a good 4WD conversion? The 2WD Eliminator was so popular that they sold almost none of them the first year they were available. They offered it in 4WD after the first year, and most Eliminators sold were 4WD. If it was converted, and done well, they just saved you the trouble.

My red '88 4.0L is a Chief. It had the skid plates and tow hooks. It also had an open rear diff -- no Trac-Lok.

Nope. The "baby" Cherokee XJ didn't come out until late 1983, as a 1984 model. Cherokees prior to that were full-size Jeeps with 6-lug rims. The Comanche wasn't introduced until 1986, and 1992 was the last year. Backspacing will be all wrong, and in many cases the center hole is too small to fit on a Jeep hub even though the lug circle is correct. No first-hand knowledge. Verify backspacing, it's probably wrong.

Why am I suddenly grateful that I have a dial-up connection and can't even consider viewing video clips?

Definitely save

If it's an automatic and the engine is a 4.0L the tranny would be an AW-4. If it's a 5-speed and a 4.0L the tranny will be a Peugeot BA 10/5. The limited slip is a Dana Trak-Lok.

Back to basics. In order for an infernal combustion engine to run, it needs fuel, air, and spark. If it cranks we'll assume the valves work and it gets air. The fuel pump is making noises, so for the moment we'll assume that it's putting out sufficient pressure and volume to at least start the engine at idle speed. I have not seen any mention of checking to verify that there is spark. Check that. No spark could be caused by a bad CPS (crankshaft position sensor), or -- more rarely -- a bad coil or bad ignition module.

I have an '87 Pioneer and an '88 Chief. Both came with a fabric bench seat and no console. The Pioneer has the full gauge cluster WITH tachometer. The Chief has gauges, but it has the huge gas gauge where the tachometer should go. This truck sounds like it's a Laredo, or has been modified by a previous owner. Those wheels aren't MJ rims, either. Are those what were on it when you bought it? 3.73 gears were NOT factory with the 4.0L. Factory would have been 3.07 with a 5-speed or 3.55 with an automatic.

Yes, of course. It was used in every non-ABS XJ with the 4.0L engine and 5-speed from about 1992 and newer. The 92 thru 96 will be 27-spline with sgafts that are the same size as the D35 but the larger ring gear and tougher housing and tubes. 97 thru 2001 are the more desireable 29-spline version.