Eagle

Don't forget, the AMC 390 and 401 were introduced in and for the Javelin and AMX -- which were unibody. Unibody has nothing to do with the torque twist -- put that much power in a light vehicle with a frame, and the whole frame will twist to one side when you light it up. I'll have to see if I can get you pics on Bob Salemi's pro drag MJ stroker. Now that he's finally getting it dialed in the thing is unbelieveable.

Have you tried a diagnostic run on the tranny itself? I don't have the book in front of me at the moment and I'm a 5-speed guy, but I believe I recall that if you pull the fuse for the TCU the tranny should operate in "manual shift" mode -- the low position on the shifter should give you 1st gear, there is no 2nd gear, the "3" position gives you 3rd and the "O" position gives you 4th. You should be able to take it on the road and drive it like that. If you can't make it shift up manually with the TCU disabled, you probably have a tranny problem.

The 304 (and the 360 and the 390/401) and the 258 all mate up with the AX-15, not the AX-5. A 304 would shred an AX-5 in about 45 minutes ... less, if you put your foot in it.

I should not have to tell you this :mad: you use the tranny key :rotfl2: So, like, since this is a transmission, that would be the change key ... right? (That may be more of an inside joke than I think, so don't worry if you don't get it.)

The whole deal with Centerforce is that they are supposed to have these little couterweights that add to the clamping pressure at high RPM. The key part of that is at high RPM. Off-roading and rock crawling tycally are not high RPM pursuits. There's no point in paying extra $$$ for a clutch that locks up tight as a bank vault at 7,000 RPM if your rig will never see the high side of 3,000 RPM. Get a Luchs. That's the brand the factory uses.

I want to know what model it is. It has the sport steering wheel, but it has a vinyl seat. No Pioneer of Chief badges I could see, but it has the hockey stick arm rests and the window-mount side mirrors. And the 15x7 white wagon wheels -- Pioneers came with the "argent" 15x6 rims. I wish there was a good shot of the instrument cluster.

Me. But I'm not here 24/7 either. If you see it and don't see me or Pete on-line, just send us a PM to let us know. That triggers an e-mail to tell us we have a PM. Please do NOT post in the threads with such garbage. Expect more of it -- on another forum where I'm a moderator, we're getting several every day. Now that they have found this place, we'll probably be getting them, too.

They are both right triangles, so it becomes a direct proportion. You lads are making it too complicated. 12/22 = W/12 22W = 12 x 12 = 144 W = 144/22 = 6.55

They're fairly low-tech but they work. When I was in high school calculators weren't allowed in chemistry or physics during tests, (yes, they were invented by then) but slide rules were. It beat grinding #'s the hard way. I don't mind dating myself -- when I was in high school and even in college, calculators had NOT been invented, so slide rules were all we had. The major gasoline companies used to give out neat circular ones you could use to calculate your gas mileage when you filled up, and there were also scientific slide rules in the circular format. I still have a box full of my old slide rules, somewhere. I saved them for when we run out of electricity and have to go back to a simpler life style. (Not necessarily easier, just simpler.) The thing with sliderules is, you can't get an answer precise to 16 decimal places. You only get two or three significant digits, and beyond that the decimal places are just filled with zeroes. If you don't know how to figure out the number of decimal places your answer should have, you're toast.

Geonovast is correct on the headlights. I think the name for the option was "Headlight Sentinal" or "Headlight Sentry." If you turn off the ignition before you turn off the headlights, they stay on for one minute (3 minutes?) to allow you to see your way to the door. If you turn off the headlights first and then turn off the ignition, they work normally. Unlike some newer vehicles, you do have to push in the headlight switch after turning off the ignition. If you leave the switch in the ON position, the headlights will not "time out" -- they'll stay on and drain the battery. The blower does not have a similar feature. If the blower is running after you turn off the ignition, there's a wiring problem somewhere.

4mph would have been well within my margin of rounding, if you mean it works out to 120. I'd take your spreadsheet but lack excel. What formula do you use? If you don't have Excel, my spreadsheet ain't gonna help you. I originally developed it in Quattro Pro, but I long since migrated it over to Excel. Your formula isn't based on actual tire rolling radius. When I did up the spreadsheet I spent a lot of time with tire company brochures and web sites, finding the actual revolutions per mile for various tire sizes. Then I factored that in and created a speed-to-RPM chart for just about every tire size from 205/75-15 up through (IIRC) 33".

About 120 MPH. Dunno how your formula got there, because it shouldn't have, but you're close. PM me your e-mail if you want my spreadsheet

The 4.0L is the same basic engine regardless of year. My '88 Cherokee just turned over 270,000 miles and still delivers 19 or 20 MPG in local driving and 22 MPG highway. Uses a half quart of oil in a 5000 miles change interval. I knew guys in NAXJA with over 300,000 on their engines.

Gotta love it, though, that it has a 7-slot grille. Hummer is still stickin' it to Chrysler on that. Chrysler tried to claim that the 7-slot grille was a Chrysler (Jeep) trademark, and that Hummer couldn't use it. Never mind that the original Hummer was an AM General product, complete with 7-slot grille, back when AM General and Jeep were both still part of American Motors. And never mind that the original Cherokee had a 10-slot grille -- which became 8 slots in either '87 or '88. It didn't go to 7 slots until 1997.

Short = altitudinally challenged Stupid = intellectually unmotivated Crook = ethically challenged A$$hole = societally unintegrated Politically correct = intellectually unmotivated, ethically challenged, societally unintegrated imbecile

Won't explode, but they pretty much stop building power around 3000 RPM. Torque peak is well below that (except for the first couple of years of the HO). But they'll rev beyond 3,000. Just don't go to 6,000 if you haven't balanced and blueprinted it ...

There have been several write-ups on this, complete with pictures, scattered all over the Internet for years. It isn't special to Jeeps -- it's a GM steering column and the problem affects their vehicles just as much as it does XJs and MJs.

I guess if I see your truck at the transfer station I'll have to introduce myself. Are you looking for any old MJ, or do you have some parameters in mind?

Before you go buying more clusters, or clipping connectors that are going to be the same as what you already have in the vehicle, try testing the gauges. You can use a 9-volt transistor battery. For the voltmeter, just connect direct to the two contacts on the gauge itself and see if the gauge reads anywhere near 9 volts. For the oil and temp senders, same deal -- connect direct to the gauge. Dunno which polarity is which. Connect one way, the needles should stay to the left, reverse the polarity and the nedles should move pretty far over to the right. (If you do it with a 12-volt source, they should go all the way to the right.) If the battery moves the needles, then get a digital ohm meter and check the printed circuit traces from each contact point at the connector plug to the points where the gauges connect. Be sure you have continuity.

That's the problem. The two-party political system has resulted in a massive government that pays no attention to the people. The parties essentially exist to preserve themselves, and underneath the rhetoric you'll find they are both the same. Example 1: Republicans historically have been the more fiscally conservative party. The Bush administration has done things that Democrats wouldn't have dared try a few years ago. Example 2: Senator Joe Lieberman of CT was a Democrat. He was AlGore's running mate (albeit apparently not AlGore's partner in inventing the Internet). He voted FOR the Iraq invasion, he became an independent, and he's now backing McCain. There hasn't been an election I can remember when there was a major party candidate I wanted to vote FOR. That's what the major parties have brought us to. It's always a case of "voting for the lesser of two evils," or voting against that guy because you believe THIS guy's statements about how bad the other guy would be. They have us terrified to vote FOR a third party or independent candidate because "you're just throwing your vote away and guaranteeing that ___ will get elected." Cow patties. I'm tired of voting against bad candidates, only to have to cast a vote for another bad candidate to do it. I'm tired of choosing between "the lesser of two evils." It's time we all start voting our conscience, and encouraging everyone else to vote their conscience. Pick someone you want to vote FOR, and vote that way. Don't worry about what everyone else is doing. That;s the ONLY way we will ever break the strangle hold the two major parties have on us. If that means votong for Ron Paul even though he probably doesn't have an ice cube's chance, so what? If he gets 5% of the vote this time, then he (or another honest candidate) gets 8% the next time, sooner or later the "powers that be" in Washington may sit up and take notice. There have been two recent elections in which there was nobody else worth voting for, so I wrote in my own name. Why? Because I could honestly vote FOR me, whereas either of the major candidates would only have been a vote against the other candidate. We're probably going to get Hillary this time, but I'll vote for Ron Paul anyway.

Anything that will ensure that the shift fork stays to the engaged side will work.

No rewiring should be necessary. My friend in Greece put an '88 or '89 6-cylinder cluster into an '84 XJ 4-cylinder and it worked fine. All he had to do was adjust the potentiometer to calibrate the tach to the 4-cylinder engine. What makes you think some of the pins are wired differently? The cluster swap has been done hundreds of times and nobody has ever reported that. Okay, I see the difference in the pictures. Before you go tearing things apart, trace those circuits and see what they feed. That may simply be the difference between idiot lights and gauges. Check your plug to be sure none of your contacts are corroded or bad. Does the plug have contacts where the OLD cluster was blank and the new one has contacts?

????? Oil in the air filter does not indicate a blown head gasket. It indicates that the CCV tubes are clogged and that the crankcase pressure from ring blow-by is pushing oil back through the large tube, which is supposed to be the inlet tube. Bad rings might contribute to this, but if the rings are bad you'll have poor gas mileage, low power, and it'll smoke a lot. The right way to check the rings is to run a compression test. First check it when it has sat for several hours - preferably overnight -- without starting it. IF you get low readings, then squirt some 30 weight oil into the cylinders are run the test again. The reason for this is that low compression can be caused by valves or by rings. A few squirts of heavy oil will seal up worn rings enough to raise the compression a few pounds, but if there's no change then you're looking at valves. The next step after that would be to have a leak-down test run, but most of us don't have the equipment to do that one. Back to the original post: Have the rear main seal replaced -- preferably NOT by the genius who "looked" at your rings and pronounced them bad. Then yank the valve cover and clean up the inside of that. Then see if it makes any difference. FWIW, my Cherokee is an '88. I'm a couple of miles short of 280,000 miles and it doesn't use a quart of oil in a 5000 mile change interval. Your engine at 101,000 miles would have had to be beat on to the point of destruction to need rings at such a low mileage. I think you need to find a different shop.

If you leave it disconnected you will probably have no rear brakes. Either rig an extended rod, or remove the silly thing and bypass it.

You need a cluster from an '88 thru '90. Late '87 MIGHT also work, but they made a change to the way the speedo cable attaches to the speedo and I'm not certain if it was a model year change or if was done mid-year in the 1987 model run. Stick with '88 thru '90 to be safe. If I understand your post, you already have gauges, so you do NOT need any new sending units, just the cluster itself. You need new sending units only when replacing idiot lights with gauges. If you're from Philadelphia, if you don't already have a source you should check out Shorty & Dave's U-Pull in Conshohaken. Farther afield but with a HUGE assortment is Harry's in Hazleton.