Eagle

4mph would have been well within my margin of rounding, if you mean it works out to 120. I'd take your spreadsheet but lack excel. What formula do you use? If you don't have Excel, my spreadsheet ain't gonna help you. I originally developed it in Quattro Pro, but I long since migrated it over to Excel. Your formula isn't based on actual tire rolling radius. When I did up the spreadsheet I spent a lot of time with tire company brochures and web sites, finding the actual revolutions per mile for various tire sizes. Then I factored that in and created a speed-to-RPM chart for just about every tire size from 205/75-15 up through (IIRC) 33".

About 120 MPH. Dunno how your formula got there, because it shouldn't have, but you're close. PM me your e-mail if you want my spreadsheet

The 4.0L is the same basic engine regardless of year. My '88 Cherokee just turned over 270,000 miles and still delivers 19 or 20 MPG in local driving and 22 MPG highway. Uses a half quart of oil in a 5000 miles change interval. I knew guys in NAXJA with over 300,000 on their engines.

Gotta love it, though, that it has a 7-slot grille. Hummer is still stickin' it to Chrysler on that. Chrysler tried to claim that the 7-slot grille was a Chrysler (Jeep) trademark, and that Hummer couldn't use it. Never mind that the original Hummer was an AM General product, complete with 7-slot grille, back when AM General and Jeep were both still part of American Motors. And never mind that the original Cherokee had a 10-slot grille -- which became 8 slots in either '87 or '88. It didn't go to 7 slots until 1997.

Short = altitudinally challenged Stupid = intellectually unmotivated Crook = ethically challenged A$$hole = societally unintegrated Politically correct = intellectually unmotivated, ethically challenged, societally unintegrated imbecile

Won't explode, but they pretty much stop building power around 3000 RPM. Torque peak is well below that (except for the first couple of years of the HO). But they'll rev beyond 3,000. Just don't go to 6,000 if you haven't balanced and blueprinted it ...

There have been several write-ups on this, complete with pictures, scattered all over the Internet for years. It isn't special to Jeeps -- it's a GM steering column and the problem affects their vehicles just as much as it does XJs and MJs.

I guess if I see your truck at the transfer station I'll have to introduce myself. Are you looking for any old MJ, or do you have some parameters in mind?

Before you go buying more clusters, or clipping connectors that are going to be the same as what you already have in the vehicle, try testing the gauges. You can use a 9-volt transistor battery. For the voltmeter, just connect direct to the two contacts on the gauge itself and see if the gauge reads anywhere near 9 volts. For the oil and temp senders, same deal -- connect direct to the gauge. Dunno which polarity is which. Connect one way, the needles should stay to the left, reverse the polarity and the nedles should move pretty far over to the right. (If you do it with a 12-volt source, they should go all the way to the right.) If the battery moves the needles, then get a digital ohm meter and check the printed circuit traces from each contact point at the connector plug to the points where the gauges connect. Be sure you have continuity.

That's the problem. The two-party political system has resulted in a massive government that pays no attention to the people. The parties essentially exist to preserve themselves, and underneath the rhetoric you'll find they are both the same. Example 1: Republicans historically have been the more fiscally conservative party. The Bush administration has done things that Democrats wouldn't have dared try a few years ago. Example 2: Senator Joe Lieberman of CT was a Democrat. He was AlGore's running mate (albeit apparently not AlGore's partner in inventing the Internet). He voted FOR the Iraq invasion, he became an independent, and he's now backing McCain. There hasn't been an election I can remember when there was a major party candidate I wanted to vote FOR. That's what the major parties have brought us to. It's always a case of "voting for the lesser of two evils," or voting against that guy because you believe THIS guy's statements about how bad the other guy would be. They have us terrified to vote FOR a third party or independent candidate because "you're just throwing your vote away and guaranteeing that ___ will get elected." Cow patties. I'm tired of voting against bad candidates, only to have to cast a vote for another bad candidate to do it. I'm tired of choosing between "the lesser of two evils." It's time we all start voting our conscience, and encouraging everyone else to vote their conscience. Pick someone you want to vote FOR, and vote that way. Don't worry about what everyone else is doing. That;s the ONLY way we will ever break the strangle hold the two major parties have on us. If that means votong for Ron Paul even though he probably doesn't have an ice cube's chance, so what? If he gets 5% of the vote this time, then he (or another honest candidate) gets 8% the next time, sooner or later the "powers that be" in Washington may sit up and take notice. There have been two recent elections in which there was nobody else worth voting for, so I wrote in my own name. Why? Because I could honestly vote FOR me, whereas either of the major candidates would only have been a vote against the other candidate. We're probably going to get Hillary this time, but I'll vote for Ron Paul anyway.

Anything that will ensure that the shift fork stays to the engaged side will work.

No rewiring should be necessary. My friend in Greece put an '88 or '89 6-cylinder cluster into an '84 XJ 4-cylinder and it worked fine. All he had to do was adjust the potentiometer to calibrate the tach to the 4-cylinder engine. What makes you think some of the pins are wired differently? The cluster swap has been done hundreds of times and nobody has ever reported that. Okay, I see the difference in the pictures. Before you go tearing things apart, trace those circuits and see what they feed. That may simply be the difference between idiot lights and gauges. Check your plug to be sure none of your contacts are corroded or bad. Does the plug have contacts where the OLD cluster was blank and the new one has contacts?

????? Oil in the air filter does not indicate a blown head gasket. It indicates that the CCV tubes are clogged and that the crankcase pressure from ring blow-by is pushing oil back through the large tube, which is supposed to be the inlet tube. Bad rings might contribute to this, but if the rings are bad you'll have poor gas mileage, low power, and it'll smoke a lot. The right way to check the rings is to run a compression test. First check it when it has sat for several hours - preferably overnight -- without starting it. IF you get low readings, then squirt some 30 weight oil into the cylinders are run the test again. The reason for this is that low compression can be caused by valves or by rings. A few squirts of heavy oil will seal up worn rings enough to raise the compression a few pounds, but if there's no change then you're looking at valves. The next step after that would be to have a leak-down test run, but most of us don't have the equipment to do that one. Back to the original post: Have the rear main seal replaced -- preferably NOT by the genius who "looked" at your rings and pronounced them bad. Then yank the valve cover and clean up the inside of that. Then see if it makes any difference. FWIW, my Cherokee is an '88. I'm a couple of miles short of 280,000 miles and it doesn't use a quart of oil in a 5000 mile change interval. Your engine at 101,000 miles would have had to be beat on to the point of destruction to need rings at such a low mileage. I think you need to find a different shop.

If you leave it disconnected you will probably have no rear brakes. Either rig an extended rod, or remove the silly thing and bypass it.

You need a cluster from an '88 thru '90. Late '87 MIGHT also work, but they made a change to the way the speedo cable attaches to the speedo and I'm not certain if it was a model year change or if was done mid-year in the 1987 model run. Stick with '88 thru '90 to be safe. If I understand your post, you already have gauges, so you do NOT need any new sending units, just the cluster itself. You need new sending units only when replacing idiot lights with gauges. If you're from Philadelphia, if you don't already have a source you should check out Shorty & Dave's U-Pull in Conshohaken. Farther afield but with a HUGE assortment is Harry's in Hazleton.

??? The holes also vary depending on what engine, transmission, and transfer case combination you have. The difference in location is 4 inches, not 2-1/2 inches, so that's not the complete answer. Each tranny and transfer case combination used a different tranny mount, even though the cross members were all the same. If you're not using the correct mount for the tranny and transfer case that you now have in the truck ... that's the problem.

(1) Swapping in a used O2 sensor is a total waste of time and energy, because the used one you swap in may be as bad as or worse than the one you're replacing. (2) A cracked exhaust manifold allows air to get into the exhaust stream. This makes the O2 sensor see a much leaner exhaust than what the engine is really putting out, so it richens the mix to compensate. I'd say that's your problem, right there.

Don't forget the bumper and flares.

Ever have your mind wander while you're driving? I had a random thought pop into my head while driving home from work this evening. I got to wondering if there's any correlation between intelligence and driving ability. How about it? Think about the best drivers you know -- the only ones you feel completely safe with when they're driving. Then think of the ones you're literally afraid to be in a car with when they drive. Any correlation between driving ability and intelligence? Personally, I'm a chicken. There are only maybe two people in the country that I'm comfortable with when they're driving. And (unfortunately) neither of them is a member of my family ... immediate or extended. My maternal grandfather was a really excellent driver. He was also one of the smartest people I've ever known. My father, on the other hand, was quite possibly the worst driver I have ever encountered. He was so bad in his later years that my mother simply refused to ride with him. If they were going to a party -- they went in separate cars (because my father didn't think it was proper for a MAN to be driven anywhere by a woman). My father wasn't stupid. He was also intelligent -- but in a much more mundane and methodical way than my grandfather. What are your theories? Is there any way to predict or to know who is going to be a good driver before you've actually ridden with them?

CW, how far are you from Meriden? There's a GOOD old-time radiator shop in Meriden. If your rad has copper tanks he could probably recore it cheaper than what you're paying. He might beat that price on a new radiator, too. If it's not too late, I can find out the name. A friend of mine has all his custom radiator and gas tank work done there.

I bought my '88 XJ with it. It's a Dana Trac-Lok. It's a clutch type limited slip, and it works just fine. The only people who complain are those who expect a limited slip to be a locker, which it ain't. My original lasted 175,000 miles. I'm now about 100,000 miles into the second one. Both my new Cherokees also have it, and the '87 MJ has a Dana 44 with the factory Trac-Lok.

No it isn't. The Chrysler system has no knock sensor, so it cannot run at the maximum possible advance. It has to run on a pre-mapped curve that is less than optimum in order to avoid ping. That's why HOs typically get about 2MPG worse gas mileage than Renix vehicles.

One of my NAXJA friends could never figure out why his torque converter wasn't locking up. He finally just wired a toggle switch to the solenoid. He leaves it unlocked around town, and uses the switch to lock it on the highway.

Sorry, but that won't suffice. You can thank ambulance chaser attorneys and liberal judges for that. Judges today aren't concerned with "the law." They are only interested in feeding some money to the "victim," and they look to whoever has money, regardless of degree/percentage of responsibility. Two examples: In one, a builder/developer build a mid-rise condo (eight stories) that in a few years had the brick cracking and falling off. The condo association sued the architect, engineer, developer, brickwork contractor, and maybe a couple of others. I was in the courtroom when the case came up, at about 10:30 a.m. The ONLY question the judge had was if the insurance company for each of the defendants was present. They weren't. "Court is adjourned until 1:00 p.m. I want each of you to have your insurance company's attorney here, and I want to know the limits on your policies." Second case: I once worked for an architect/engineering firm that specialized in roofing repairs. We were hired to specify repairs after a roofing fire on a shopping mall. About a year after the work was done, we were named in a lawsuit. The suit was filed by a volunteer fireman who had showed up drunk, fell off a ladder, and hurt his back. He sued us because our "defective specifications" were a proximate cause of the fire. Never mind that we weren't hired until AFTER the fire. Shame on his attorney. Shame on the judge who declined to release us from the suit. And, worse yet, we had to sue our own insurance company to get them to defend us. They wanted to PAY, because it was cheaper (for them) than sending a lawyer to court. Of course, they would have raised our premiums for the next 5 years so it wouldn't have cost them anything. /rant Tire shops around here have the same policy. It's a nuisance, but they have to do it because that's the nature of today's litigious society. Nobody wants to be responsible for anything. Everybody says they have a "right" to do 'X' or 'Y' or 'Z,' but then if doing to results in an injury or damage, they always look for somebody to sue. I always just take my tires in and have them mounted and balanced. I have a jack and a lug wrench.

Car sellers and buyers can be strange critters. I once had a car for sale. Parked it on the lawn at my mother-in-law's because she lived on a main road. Guy called, wanted to see it. We made an appointment for 6:00 p.m., after I got off work. I'm there at 5:45. 6:00 comes around, and the guy doesn't show. 6:30 rolls around and the guy doesn't show. 7:00 o'clock and he still hasn't showed. I call his number, his father says he went out with his friends, doesn't know how or where to reach him. 7:15 there's a knock on the door -- really nice young kid, turns out to be one of my wife's HS students, wants to look at the car. We look. He drives it. He loves it. Pays me the asking price in cash, on the spot. We make an appointment for Saturday to do all the paperwork. By now it's 8:30. The kid leaves, the phone rings, hey! ... it's Mr. 6:00 o'clock. Says he's on his way, he'll be there in 15 minutes. I told him not to bother, the car was sold. The dweeb went into a tirade, telling me I had no right to sell HIS car, he was going to call the cops and the DMV, tada yada. I finally hung up on him. Then there was the guy who wanted to buy my plow Jeep ... There are some people it's just better not to do business with.