Eagle

You call the cops in his town, and if you sent the money by mail you call the U.S. Postal Service postal inspectors.

My replacement "old style" radiator is a 3-row. With all metal tanks. Not only that, I now have increased coolant capacity. The original plastic bottle hold maybe a quart, but it's supposed to be only half-full when cold to allow for expansion. The Moroso tank I used holds 1-1/2 quarts, and with a conventional cap it gets filled right to the top. The filler neck has a bung for an overflow tube, which I connected to an aftermarket catch bottle, so my system now functions like an "open" system, holds more coolant than a conversion to a factory open radiator, and the aux fan operates exactly the same as it always did.

We now have a fairly good display of why I think this whole "You have to convert to an open cooling system" thing is over-rated and totally misdirected. The open system has the exact same size radiator and cools exactly the same as the closed radiator. If the two systems are operating normally, the open system offers NO better cooling than the "closed" system. The weak point in the closed system isn't the radiator, it's the plastic surge tank on the firewall. When I replaced my original radiator in the '88 XJ back in 2000, I used a replacement "closed" radiator and I replaced the plastic tank with a Moroso racing surge tank. It's an aluminum cannister with a conventional fill neck that accepts a standard radiator cap. No more leaking plastic caps, no more overflowing coolant, no more problems. And I didn't have to go through any of the problems you guys are rediscovering, because my new radiator had a bung for the aux fan sensor.

No it's not. That sensor does not control the aux fan.

Actually it is a switch and will work without issues; several (including myself) have done it without issues. The key is to use the wires as I stated above. They can be found in a ribbed protector running down the left hand inner fender. Out of this ribbed wiring sleeve will be a connector with a yellow and black wire. I just stumbled onto this thread after being away from it for awhile. I don't have a '91 FSM but I do have a '94 FSM, and I believe the systems are basically the same. The engine coolant temperature "sensor" in the thermostat housing is NOT a switch, it is a variable resistor. It sends data to the PCM, which in turn sends a signal to the fan control relay. Feel free to check it for yourselves.

All things being properly set up, it is impossible for a 2-barrel to generate as good fuel economy as a 4-barrel. A carburetor relies on air velocity over the venturis to suck gasoline out of the fuel bowl and into the air stream. Faster air velocity results in more uniform fuel flow as well as better atomization. In order for a 2-barrel carb to run an engine at all speeds, it has to have the bores sized to allow sufficient air flow at the maximum anticipated engine RPM. At any {engine) speed below that, the air velocity through the bores slows down. The throttle plates are what regulate this, and try to keep the velocity up, but any time you push down on the peddle and the throttle plates open, the air velocity drops. That's why carbs have accelerator pumps -- to temporarily pump extra gas into the air column when the air velocity is too slow to suck enough through the venturis. The whole point of a 4-barrel is that the primaries are small -- much too small for full throttle operation, but optimally sized for light throttle cruise. The air velocity through the bores is faster, so the atomization of the fuel as it comes out of the venturis is better. When you need more power and/or higher RPM than the primaries can give you, the secondaries (which are usually significantly larger than the primaries) open up and make up the difference. If you set up and drive a 4-barrel so that most normal driving doesn't open the secondaries, there's no way a 2-barrel can touch the 4-barrel for economy. The problem is that most people set up their 4-barrels to get into the secondaries almost all the time, and they drive with a heavy foot, so they're just sucking gas when it isn't needed. The new Edelbrock 4-barrels are copied from the old Carter AFB line, and I loved those carbs. Easy to tune by swapping jets and metering rods, and very reliable. Secondaries were mechanically operated, not vacuum operated, so that was one less thing to go wrong.

yeah, it's from japan or china or something like that. late 90's Correct. It has the old style parking lights. The XJ from 84 thru 87 had a 10-slot grille, and from 88 thru 96 it was 8 slots. And the slots were vertical. That pic has 7 slots. It's from a Beijing Jeep Super Cherokee.

If he's replacing a 4-speed manual tranny, it's a 4-cylinder MJ. I don't believe the Chrysler tranny for those used a TCU, so the list looks pretty okay. I second the idea of using an XJ floor shift rather than trying to use the MJ column linkage. There's a cable in there to operate the PRNDL, which is in the dash cluster, so to do the column shift right you'll have to find a gauge cluster with the PRNDL. Good luck -- it wasn't used in the XJ.

Obviously ...

What are these "locked" D44s out of? Are you sure they are locked ... or are they equipped with a factory limited slip?

Be sure you replace the flex line/hose assembly that connects the master to the slave. It is not included with either on the older XJs and MJs. Don't ask me how I know this. 200 mile return to home base with no clutch tends to make the obvious much more obvious.

Now there's a name I haven't heard mentioned since the early NAXJA days..... ;) yes, yes, pics and info please........ Jeff Like many of us, as NAXJA grew in size and the number of childish idiots proliferated, he quietly departed by the side exit and holed up in his garage, building an MJ he pulled out of a wrecking yard into an awesome pro drag truck. Seems back in their younger days Bob and his brother were the guys to beat in New England drag racing. He's baaaaaaack!

You can check the prices of reproduction parts on the Quadratec site. Sounds to me like you got a very good deal.

OUTSTANDING. I used to be a regular on the Strokers discussion board when it was under the E-Groups banner. Somehow, when Yahoo took over I got locked out. That site will be added to my list of favorites, for sure. Those guys know their stuff (well, some of 'em, anyway).

31 inch tires through 3.73 gears turns EXACTLY the same RPMs as my wife's stock XJ automatic with stock tires and 3.54 gears. If anything, 4.10s would be better for 31 inch tires. 4.10s will be okay for 32s, 4.56 would be better. With 32 inch tires, the RPMs at 65 MPH in overdrive would be 2205 with 4.10s and 2453 with 4.56s. IMHO cruising at 2500 is the sweet spot for those engines. Even 70 MPH will only be 2640 RPM with 4.56s. The engine will run at that speed all year.

Don't forget, the AMC 390 and 401 were introduced in and for the Javelin and AMX -- which were unibody. Unibody has nothing to do with the torque twist -- put that much power in a light vehicle with a frame, and the whole frame will twist to one side when you light it up. I'll have to see if I can get you pics on Bob Salemi's pro drag MJ stroker. Now that he's finally getting it dialed in the thing is unbelieveable.

Have you tried a diagnostic run on the tranny itself? I don't have the book in front of me at the moment and I'm a 5-speed guy, but I believe I recall that if you pull the fuse for the TCU the tranny should operate in "manual shift" mode -- the low position on the shifter should give you 1st gear, there is no 2nd gear, the "3" position gives you 3rd and the "O" position gives you 4th. You should be able to take it on the road and drive it like that. If you can't make it shift up manually with the TCU disabled, you probably have a tranny problem.

The 304 (and the 360 and the 390/401) and the 258 all mate up with the AX-15, not the AX-5. A 304 would shred an AX-5 in about 45 minutes ... less, if you put your foot in it.

I should not have to tell you this :mad: you use the tranny key :rotfl2: So, like, since this is a transmission, that would be the change key ... right? (That may be more of an inside joke than I think, so don't worry if you don't get it.)

The whole deal with Centerforce is that they are supposed to have these little couterweights that add to the clamping pressure at high RPM. The key part of that is at high RPM. Off-roading and rock crawling tycally are not high RPM pursuits. There's no point in paying extra $$$ for a clutch that locks up tight as a bank vault at 7,000 RPM if your rig will never see the high side of 3,000 RPM. Get a Luchs. That's the brand the factory uses.

I want to know what model it is. It has the sport steering wheel, but it has a vinyl seat. No Pioneer of Chief badges I could see, but it has the hockey stick arm rests and the window-mount side mirrors. And the 15x7 white wagon wheels -- Pioneers came with the "argent" 15x6 rims. I wish there was a good shot of the instrument cluster.

Me. But I'm not here 24/7 either. If you see it and don't see me or Pete on-line, just send us a PM to let us know. That triggers an e-mail to tell us we have a PM. Please do NOT post in the threads with such garbage. Expect more of it -- on another forum where I'm a moderator, we're getting several every day. Now that they have found this place, we'll probably be getting them, too.

They are both right triangles, so it becomes a direct proportion. You lads are making it too complicated. 12/22 = W/12 22W = 12 x 12 = 144 W = 144/22 = 6.55

They're fairly low-tech but they work. When I was in high school calculators weren't allowed in chemistry or physics during tests, (yes, they were invented by then) but slide rules were. It beat grinding #'s the hard way. I don't mind dating myself -- when I was in high school and even in college, calculators had NOT been invented, so slide rules were all we had. The major gasoline companies used to give out neat circular ones you could use to calculate your gas mileage when you filled up, and there were also scientific slide rules in the circular format. I still have a box full of my old slide rules, somewhere. I saved them for when we run out of electricity and have to go back to a simpler life style. (Not necessarily easier, just simpler.) The thing with sliderules is, you can't get an answer precise to 16 decimal places. You only get two or three significant digits, and beyond that the decimal places are just filled with zeroes. If you don't know how to figure out the number of decimal places your answer should have, you're toast.

Geonovast is correct on the headlights. I think the name for the option was "Headlight Sentinal" or "Headlight Sentry." If you turn off the ignition before you turn off the headlights, they stay on for one minute (3 minutes?) to allow you to see your way to the door. If you turn off the headlights first and then turn off the ignition, they work normally. Unlike some newer vehicles, you do have to push in the headlight switch after turning off the ignition. If you leave the switch in the ON position, the headlights will not "time out" -- they'll stay on and drain the battery. The blower does not have a similar feature. If the blower is running after you turn off the ignition, there's a wiring problem somewhere.