Eagle

Rancho has an AAL kit that fits both the XJ and the MJ. It's listed as a "full-length," but for an MJ it's really more like about a 3/4-length. The Rancho catalog lists it as yielding 2-1/2" in both the XJ and the MJ. That's impossible, of course. I called Rancho and pestered a nice young lady in the engineering depaertment until she checked with one of the older dudes. The answer was that I was right and the catalog was wrong. 2-1/2" in the XJ and 1-1/2" in the MJ. Costs about $50. I can probably dredge up the Rancho part number if you can't find a listing.

x2 - Crank Position Sensor (CPS)

Those may be old prices. Anyhoo ... try NAPA, if you have them in Canada. The replacement CCV hoses/tubes for the '88 vintage XJs and MJs cost literally half at NAPA what they would cost me at a dealership, and I get shop pricing.

Last I knew (a couple of years ago) there were still lots of those hinge repair kits in the parts system. The same repair also applied to XJs, especially the 2-doors with the wider, heavier doors. But the XJ has been out of production for several years, so who knows? Check your dealership parts gurus to see if they can still order the kits. If not, there are otjer ways to reinforce the door post and reattached the hinge, but it requires a good body man/welder to do it right.

Pete, you'll never get anywhere in this life. You're too honest and too trusting. If the guy was healthy enough to acknowledge receipt of payment, he should be healthy enough to stick a part in a box and get it to the post office or UPS Store. E-mail certainly can be unreliable, but isn't it coincidental when somebody's e-mail works 100% right up until they have your money -- and then suddenly it "doesn't work"? That dawg don't hunt.

I agree. Neither of you may be ready to drop the hammer on the public forum, but it would be a good idea to determine if it's the same guy. Heck, it might even be the same part(s). If there's one guy who is brushing both of you off and "forgetting," I respectfully suggest it's time for the gloves to come off.

I am a charter member of NAXJA, former president of the North Atlantic Chapter (which was the first of NAXJA's regional chapters), and I served a term on the national board of directors. I've been with NAXJA since before it was NAXJA. I don't even look at it any more. Don't know how long it has been since I have even logged onto their site. As someone expressed it, the signal-to-noise ratio seemed to have declined to negative numbers as the membership increased. It went from being a haven for Jeep Cherokee and Comanche lovers to a hang-out for Ford and Chevy guys who accidently found themselves in a Jeep and couldn't wait to tell the Jeep guys how much they knew, and how crappy Jeeps are. On top of that, NAXJA had posting guidelines that had served us well for several years. Then a vocal crew of rednecks got onto the board and decided that the rules didn't apply to them. I was a moderator while I was a director -- for awhile. Then I had the temerity to moderate a post by one of the "chosen." The next day I logged on in the morning and all was normal. I logged on in the afternoon, and I was no longer a moderator. No notice, no discussion on the Board of Directors forum area, just ... shut out. The president deleted my moderator status unilaterally because I had moderated his pal. Didn't matter that the post was a blatant violation that wouldn't have been tolerated from any of the "ordinary" members. And things went downhill from there, so I lost interest after Pete set up this forum. This is a much nicer place to play. NAXJA should have a new board of directors in place since I was last there, so perhaps they have cleaned up their act. I don't know. I'm a life member but I don't use it. This place is better. Thankfully, there are a lot fewer MJs than XJs, so we probably don't have to worry about getting as big as NAXJA, and that may be a salvation.

According to my local locksmith, the AMC ignitions did NOT use GM keys. They look similar, but if you look at good lock and key listings, you'll see references (perhaps in fire-print footnotes) to "AMC keyway" and "GM keyway." I don't know what the difference is, but I have been assured that there is a difference.

I used to buy all my gears and lockers from a company called Drive Train Direct. Haven't had any contact with them for a few years but, if they're still around, I always felt they treated me right. $530 for a Tru-Trac sounds awfully high ... unless that's installed, in which case it's a good price.

I'll let Pete post for himself whether or not he may choose to intervene, but IMHO there is no reason why he should do so. We've been going through this regarding a group buy on another forum. Even though the forum owner/admin clearly stated from the outset that the guy coordinating the group buy (the "seller," in other words) had no affiliation with the forum other than as an ordinary member and that the forum was not involved in and would not be responsible for the group buy -- when the "seller" collected over $15,000 and didn't even order the merchandise people started bugging the forum owner about how he "should" do something. WRONG! If you respond to an ad in the newspaper classifieds and the deal goes bad, do you call the editor and expect him to "do something"? This forum is a place for people to post ads. Pete can't personally vouch for every member's honesty and integrity. These are business transactions, they are covered by various laws (Federal, if the buyer and seller are in different states), and there are avenues available through which to approach dealing with a deadbeat seller. Personally, I think it's very unfair to Pete to even suggest that he get involved (other than perhaps to ban the deadbeat).

You call the cops in his town, and if you sent the money by mail you call the U.S. Postal Service postal inspectors.

My replacement "old style" radiator is a 3-row. With all metal tanks. Not only that, I now have increased coolant capacity. The original plastic bottle hold maybe a quart, but it's supposed to be only half-full when cold to allow for expansion. The Moroso tank I used holds 1-1/2 quarts, and with a conventional cap it gets filled right to the top. The filler neck has a bung for an overflow tube, which I connected to an aftermarket catch bottle, so my system now functions like an "open" system, holds more coolant than a conversion to a factory open radiator, and the aux fan operates exactly the same as it always did.

We now have a fairly good display of why I think this whole "You have to convert to an open cooling system" thing is over-rated and totally misdirected. The open system has the exact same size radiator and cools exactly the same as the closed radiator. If the two systems are operating normally, the open system offers NO better cooling than the "closed" system. The weak point in the closed system isn't the radiator, it's the plastic surge tank on the firewall. When I replaced my original radiator in the '88 XJ back in 2000, I used a replacement "closed" radiator and I replaced the plastic tank with a Moroso racing surge tank. It's an aluminum cannister with a conventional fill neck that accepts a standard radiator cap. No more leaking plastic caps, no more overflowing coolant, no more problems. And I didn't have to go through any of the problems you guys are rediscovering, because my new radiator had a bung for the aux fan sensor.

No it's not. That sensor does not control the aux fan.

Actually it is a switch and will work without issues; several (including myself) have done it without issues. The key is to use the wires as I stated above. They can be found in a ribbed protector running down the left hand inner fender. Out of this ribbed wiring sleeve will be a connector with a yellow and black wire. I just stumbled onto this thread after being away from it for awhile. I don't have a '91 FSM but I do have a '94 FSM, and I believe the systems are basically the same. The engine coolant temperature "sensor" in the thermostat housing is NOT a switch, it is a variable resistor. It sends data to the PCM, which in turn sends a signal to the fan control relay. Feel free to check it for yourselves.

All things being properly set up, it is impossible for a 2-barrel to generate as good fuel economy as a 4-barrel. A carburetor relies on air velocity over the venturis to suck gasoline out of the fuel bowl and into the air stream. Faster air velocity results in more uniform fuel flow as well as better atomization. In order for a 2-barrel carb to run an engine at all speeds, it has to have the bores sized to allow sufficient air flow at the maximum anticipated engine RPM. At any {engine) speed below that, the air velocity through the bores slows down. The throttle plates are what regulate this, and try to keep the velocity up, but any time you push down on the peddle and the throttle plates open, the air velocity drops. That's why carbs have accelerator pumps -- to temporarily pump extra gas into the air column when the air velocity is too slow to suck enough through the venturis. The whole point of a 4-barrel is that the primaries are small -- much too small for full throttle operation, but optimally sized for light throttle cruise. The air velocity through the bores is faster, so the atomization of the fuel as it comes out of the venturis is better. When you need more power and/or higher RPM than the primaries can give you, the secondaries (which are usually significantly larger than the primaries) open up and make up the difference. If you set up and drive a 4-barrel so that most normal driving doesn't open the secondaries, there's no way a 2-barrel can touch the 4-barrel for economy. The problem is that most people set up their 4-barrels to get into the secondaries almost all the time, and they drive with a heavy foot, so they're just sucking gas when it isn't needed. The new Edelbrock 4-barrels are copied from the old Carter AFB line, and I loved those carbs. Easy to tune by swapping jets and metering rods, and very reliable. Secondaries were mechanically operated, not vacuum operated, so that was one less thing to go wrong.

yeah, it's from japan or china or something like that. late 90's Correct. It has the old style parking lights. The XJ from 84 thru 87 had a 10-slot grille, and from 88 thru 96 it was 8 slots. And the slots were vertical. That pic has 7 slots. It's from a Beijing Jeep Super Cherokee.

If he's replacing a 4-speed manual tranny, it's a 4-cylinder MJ. I don't believe the Chrysler tranny for those used a TCU, so the list looks pretty okay. I second the idea of using an XJ floor shift rather than trying to use the MJ column linkage. There's a cable in there to operate the PRNDL, which is in the dash cluster, so to do the column shift right you'll have to find a gauge cluster with the PRNDL. Good luck -- it wasn't used in the XJ.

Obviously ...

What are these "locked" D44s out of? Are you sure they are locked ... or are they equipped with a factory limited slip?

Be sure you replace the flex line/hose assembly that connects the master to the slave. It is not included with either on the older XJs and MJs. Don't ask me how I know this. 200 mile return to home base with no clutch tends to make the obvious much more obvious.

Now there's a name I haven't heard mentioned since the early NAXJA days..... ;) yes, yes, pics and info please........ Jeff Like many of us, as NAXJA grew in size and the number of childish idiots proliferated, he quietly departed by the side exit and holed up in his garage, building an MJ he pulled out of a wrecking yard into an awesome pro drag truck. Seems back in their younger days Bob and his brother were the guys to beat in New England drag racing. He's baaaaaaack!

You can check the prices of reproduction parts on the Quadratec site. Sounds to me like you got a very good deal.

OUTSTANDING. I used to be a regular on the Strokers discussion board when it was under the E-Groups banner. Somehow, when Yahoo took over I got locked out. That site will be added to my list of favorites, for sure. Those guys know their stuff (well, some of 'em, anyway).

31 inch tires through 3.73 gears turns EXACTLY the same RPMs as my wife's stock XJ automatic with stock tires and 3.54 gears. If anything, 4.10s would be better for 31 inch tires. 4.10s will be okay for 32s, 4.56 would be better. With 32 inch tires, the RPMs at 65 MPH in overdrive would be 2205 with 4.10s and 2453 with 4.56s. IMHO cruising at 2500 is the sweet spot for those engines. Even 70 MPH will only be 2640 RPM with 4.56s. The engine will run at that speed all year.