Eagle

I have posted before and I will repeat here -- one boring Saturday morning, the parts guys at the dealership and I pulled out two brand new track bars -- one of the old part number and one of the new part number -- and laid them on the counter, side-by-side. We looked. We measured. We held them together in a variety of positions. We could not find ANY difference between them, other than the part number and the price. I am running a '92 or '92 track bar in my '88 Cherokee. My axle is not off center. If your axle is off center, it's not because someone used the wrong year track bar.

I will almost guarantee the problem will disappear when the FRAM filter disappears. However -- yes, of course your oil pressure goes down when the oil gets hotter and thinner. And the pressure goes down at idle because the oil pump isn't spinning as fast. What type and weight of oil are you using?

Paraffin.

Keep in mind that the size and shape of the hole changed. The hole for my '89 with AX-15 is different from the '87 with the BA 10/5.

Not without modifying one or both. They don't mate up properly.

You want Option #2. Option #3 is what Pete did on his first try, and then found out he had no rear brakes. That lower front (as in forward, not meaning "front wheels") output only gets pressurized if you lose the pressure in the front brake circuit.

READ THIS! http://knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/index.html

Dude -- Do NOT waste one penny on gears, carburetors, tune-ups, fuel filters, high-flow air filters. Do NOT do it. You will only end up poorer and pi$$eder at yourself for wasting money and still driving a boat anchor. Take the dollars you would put into those useless improvements, stick them in a piggy bank, add to them as often as you can, and then do a 3.4L conversion. It's the same basic block, but it's a MUCH better engine.

Ummmm ... Purolator is a MAJOR aftermarket manufacturer. They are not Advance Auto's "house brand."

Purolator, Wix, Mobil-1

Ummm ... no, they don't. Unfortunately, those places that have SWAT teams are getting in the habit of using the SWAT teams for all warrants. There was a case last year of an accountant, who had no prior record and no indications of violence, who was under suspicion of some fairly minor offense. They sent a SWAT team after him and killed him in his front yard. He was unarmed and had offered no resistence. The BATFE is an agency out of control. Don't get me started.

I'm not sure what you lads are talking about, but if this is a complete vehicle with a tranny and bellhousing in place -- there is no way you can see the rear main seal. Period. It's inside the block. What ARE you looking at? Is this an automatic, and you removed the inspection cover from the bottom of the bellhousing? If so, what you can see is the rear flange of the crankshaft, to which the flywheel or flexplate is bolted. The rear main seal is forward of that, and out of sight.

It can't be done. I've driven the same engine in a friend's S10 pickup when it was new, and it was also an underpowered dog. There is nothing you can do to that engine short of a supercharger that will get it to maintain highway speed on upgrades.

Actually, wasn't the Command-Trac transfer case in 1987 an NP 207?

It directly interchanges with any XJ or MJ 1984 thru 1990. The part number changed effective 1991, but I have a 1993 trackbar in my '88 XJ and all it did was put the steering wheel off-center by maybe 1/8 of a turn. I have had the two track bars on the counter at the dealership and you cannot see the difference. So, basically -- you can use any track bar from any XJ or MJ. Not certain, but I believe you can also use a ZJ bar.

I didn't notice that you are in the Bahamas. Remove the air intake hose and post a photo of the "air induction device" so we can see if it's a carb or a throttle body. That looks like the intake hose for a TBI model, but a look inside would be definitive.

I suspect an open circuit. There's a plug in the wiring harness about 15" outside of the fuel tank. Three wires. The heavy wire is power to the pump, the black wire is ground for the pump and sender, and the third wire (purple?) is power to the sender. Unplug the connector. Turn on the ignition and the gauge should move all the way to one extreme. Not sure, but I think that's FULL. Then if you use a paper clip to jumper the connector from the sender power to the ground on the body side of the connector, the gauge should go to the opposite extreme -- which I believe should be EMPTY. Te sender is a variable resistor, with a range of 0 to 88 ohms. I think 0 ohms is EMPTY (which would be jumpered), and I think 88 ohms is FULL (and an open circuit would be infinite resistance, which is more than 88 ohms). If yours does this, there is probably an open somewhere in your wiring. The wires inside the tank are push-on connectors, so if the previous owner ever had the pump out of the tank, he may have fubarred the push-on connector. If your gauge doesn't react as above when you disconnect and then jumper the body side of the connector, then you have a wiring problem between the dash and the connector.

You may have nailed it. My '88 died this winter. I had a badly sprained back at the time, but I was able to change the CPS in the driveway. After I did that -- it still wouldn't start. I had it towed to the dealership and paid them (handsomely!) to install the wiring patch. It now starts perfectly.

Your friend is badly misinformed. The '86 4-cylinder IS a throttle-body injection system. Perhaps your friend doesn't understand what "throttle body" injection is, as opposed to "multi-port" injection. You have a single fuel injector mounted in the throttle body. You do NOT have a carburetor.

Yeah, it "falls" off -- under between 40 and 60 psi. Not exactly a cruise missile, but it makes quite a mess. I've had an oil filter gasket blow out, on a Toyota. Don't even want to think about the entire filter blowing off.

Except the '87 - '90 Jeep 4.0L with the metric threads. Never EVER use that filter on those.

Nope. The '90 is a Renix, and they have some sort of system check built into the start -- they all start "long."

I wish I had time to get you the wiring diagrams. I'm leaning toward ignition switch, but I haven't had time to look through the wiring book -- not that I could understand it if I did. (I HATE the Jeep wiring diagrams. I'm accustomed to the old AMC diagrams, where you could follow a wire from one end to the other without having to look at 17 different pages.) Is there anything in the ignition switch that bypasses a circuit when it's in the START position? We know the ballast resistor for the fuel pump gets bypassed during starts. That's not the issue here, since the fuel pump runs and pressurizes the system. But is there any other circuit, leading to the coil, that gets bypassed, that might have a fault in the bypass circuit?

None of this makes sense, so start thinking outside of the box. When it doesn't start, you have no spark. That could indicate a bad CPS, or a bad coil/ignition module. But ... neither of those two items are in any way affected or bypassed if you roll the truck down a hill and pop the clutch, yet if you roll it -- it starts. We're overlooking something very basic here. I don't claim to know what it is, but I'll be worrying about it this evening. Meanwhile, guys, stop tossing out the cookie cutter answers and think about what could cause no spark when cranking but allow spark for a drop start.

Yeah, the non c-clip is better. The shafts are the same size and the spline count is the same, so there's no strength difference, but there's no chance of a clip breaking and spewing the axle out the side, plus the c-clip axles had the crappy 9" brakes and the early ones had 10" brakes. The D35 are 10x1-3/4 so the swept area is probably about the same, but I think the 10" brakes are easier to work on and I'm convinced they stop better than the 9".