Eagle

Funny you should ask. I just spent the morning removing and de-gumming the carburetor on my generator. First off - use Sta-Bil in the gas. RELIGIOUSLY. Don't buy a can of gas for the mower and generator and say "I'll add the Sta-Bil next week" or "Nah - next tank." Add it as soon as you get the gas home from the station. And continue to exercise the generator every couple of months. Actually, I've been told by old timers (yes, even older than I -- my uncle for one, now passed away) that a generator should be run monthly with out fail. And that was before the gasolines were reformulated. The new stuff turns to varnish in a nanosecond.

84 - 86 you pretty much have to find a 4-cyl or 6-cyl tach in order for it to read correctly. The "2nd generation" (87 - 90) cluster has a tach with a potentiometer on it to adjust for 4-cyl or 6-cyl.

Hey, Andy - Long time no talk. How's it going? Say hi to your wife for me. I would not trust that bypass to not be bored through. The one I cut open wasn't, but I cut ONLY one. It is obviously intended to be bored through, otherwise it would not (could not) function as a bypass, and that's what it's for. The annotated version of my photo (kindly produced by jtdesigns) shows how it should work. If you don't plug it, under normal conditions there should never be any pressure or fluid getting to it. But, if you lose the fronts, the slider will more, directing pressure to that bypass, and then it's an open circuit. That means you'll have NO brakes. All you need to plug it is a fine thread bolt. I don't remember if it's a 5/16" or a 3/8" but it's one of those two, I'm pretty certain. (Oh, be safe and buy a 7/16" while you're at the bolt emporium.) It is definitely a fine thread (SAE), though, not coarse (UNC). You could just put a dab of RTV on the end of the bolt and stick it in there. I wanted it to look a bit neater, so I cut it to length to barely kiss the seat with an O-ring on the bolt, then I also added RTV so when I installed it, it seats with the head compressing the O-ring on the valve body and the RTV sealing the actual hole in the valve. That should translate to a double seal. I'm all about redundancy when it comes to my life and things designed to protect it.

No. Not on the old ones. Neutral on the transfer case disengages the transmission from the transfer case, but it locks the front and rear drive shafts. If they try to tow it like that with the front wheels on the arms and the rear wheels on the ground -- it'll get interesting in a hurry. For a short tow leave it in 2WD. For a long tow, have them use a flatbed.

I believe there should be some advance at idle, but I don't recall how much. In the case of the sick beast, if there's suspicion of a slipped tooth on the timing chain I'd be looking for the timing to be right off the scale. Since I have 277,000+ miles on the original chain, I doubt very much that's the problem. I'm more suspicious of the cam position sensor in the distributor, and for that I'd be looking for erratic timing.

Easy enough to check. The timing isn't adjustable, but there's still a timing index on the front cover and a timing mark on the vibration damper. Clean 'em up, hook up ye olde timing light, and see what it shows.

87 thru 90 can also be installed by using an 87 - 90 speedometer cable. The wiring is all compatible, it's the way the cable connects to the speedometer head that's different. Since your MJ seems to have the PRNDL on the steering column, you don't have to worry about retrofitting a PRNDL to a cluster that doesn't have one.

A Sun Supertach has four wires. Two are for the light. Of the two for the tach, one goes to ground and the other goes to the negative terminal of the coil. Pretty straightforward. But for the price of a Sun tach you can probably find a full cluster with the tach and gauges, and buy the two sending units you'll need for the swap.

Basically, that's about it. Not sure if the difference is only 2" though. I thought TJ coils lost more like 3" or 4" compared to their listed height when used in an XJ or MJ. But the spring diameter is the same and they will go into the vehicle.

No, because he already has gauges, not idiot lights. Read question before answering, Grasshopper. Boilermaker is correct -- 91 and newer uses an electronic speedo and the clusters do not interchange with the older models using mechanical speedos. In the original question and the pic he has idiot lights. Its a little confusing because he says gauge instead of cluster. Good point. I thought he said he has gauges, but the upper pic doesn't show clearly what he has. I believe I mis-read the way he wrote the question. My bad -- sorry.

hardware. plumbing section. i forget the thread, but it's like 3/8" pipe thread i believe. I can try and find out for you, but you should be able to simply walk in to the parts store and tell them what you need as well. parts stores DO have plumbing hardline as well, but for some reason I just trust the local hardware store more than advance auto or napa :redX: To blank off the unused port? It isn't a pipe thread, it's a straight thread. It's either a 5/16" or 3/8" fine thread machine bolt. You won't find one short enough, so to do it neat you have to cut it off. I chopped mine and put an o-ring under the head. In reality, it'll probably work if you leave it sticking out and tighten it down so the end of the bolt digs into the old seat and makes it's own seal, but I wanted a neater appearance.

No, because he already has gauges, not idiot lights. Read question before answering, Grasshopper. Boilermaker is correct -- 91 and newer uses an electronic speedo and the clusters do not interchange with the older models using mechanical speedos.

The timing is not adjustable. You can't rotate the distributor because it is locked in place with locating ears. Timing is taken care of by the crank position sensor (CPS) and cam position sensor. There was a very old tech bulletin about cutting off the ears to "index" the distributor, but if it made it to 199,000 miles, it doesn't need it now. The indexing issue usually arises when installing an aftermarket camshaft that doesn't have the drive gear correctly indexed to the cam profile. You might think about the cam position sensor in the distributor.

The YJ did use a high-pinion D30 in front, with a disconnect, so the internals will swap. Obviously, since it was a leaf spring suspension, the externals won't swap without serious work. But ... The YJ never had an NV 3550 tranny. The early ones had the Peugeot, and the later ones had the AX-15 (and all the 4-bangers had the AX-5). If the donor Jeep really has an NV3550, that means it's a TJ and the front axle is a low-pinion.

I agree. But if the next time is a fair fight, our guy could lose. Never bet unless it's a sure thing. Right now, our guy has bragging rights, and if the other kid keeps asking for a rematch he just looks like a whiner. If you GIVE him a rematch, and lose ... you look like a dork.

Yupp. Plug-n-Play

Yeah, this is true. I certainly agree a Comanche is superior to a Ranger but, remembering the old adage that "Age and craft beat youth and vigor," take it from an Olde Pharte -- you have now succeeded in putting him DOWN. Never EVER give in to the temptation to accept a rematch. There is nothing to be gained by putting your bragging rights at risk. The title is yours to lose ... so don't lose it.

Here's a thought -- and a LOT depends on the law in your state: If you are having accident damage to your own vehicle repaired by your own insurance company under a collision policy, they pretty much get to call the shots as far as determining that the cost to repair is more than the book value, so here's your check have a nice day. But I have been led to believe that it's a VERY different story when the other driver is at fault. You didn't ask to be hit. Along the same line that says if you drive a Ford Ranger they MUST replace your fender with a genuine Ford fender if you ask for it, I believe you can also just say "Hey, I drive a Jeep Comanche because that's what I choose to drive. I can't buy another one for what you're offering, so just repair mine to the condition it was in when YOUR client hit me, thank you. How much it costs is your problem, not my problem. And oh, by the way -- I want all Jeep parts!" Ask your lawyer, or your insurance agent. Don't let the other driver's insurance company buffalo you.

Yeah, but you're forgiven, 'cause you made such an elegant patcherooski.

If you are keeping the MJ front metering block (it is not a proprtioning valve on the MJ, although it is in the XJ), you plug the forward outlet on the bottom, and you use the outlet on the "nose" to feed the rear brakes.

"Skank": One who is disgustingly foul or filthy and often considered sexually promiscuous. Used especially of a woman or girl. Skank is slang and a pejorative term used in English to describe a certain type of female. The term "skank" differs from that of "slut" in that whereas the latter implies only sexual promiscuity; the former also implies poor taste, personally degrading behaviour and low socioeconomic class. a person and especially a woman of low or sleazy character ---------------------------------------------- The term "skank" goes back at least to when I was in high school, which (sadly) was before most of you were even born. The above definitions are still pretty accurate. Ain't no way I can see how the Gov could be described as a "skank."

If you replace the fuel pump, yes you should replace the "sock" and the lock ring gasket (O-ring). And please let us know if that solves the problem, because my '88 is doing exactly the same thing and I haven't solved it yet. I tried bypassing the ballast resistor and that didn't help, so I'm trying to think of ways to trouble shoot on the side of the road before I spring for a new fuel pump that may or may not be the answer.

^^^ 90+ percent of the time the problem is the socket.

as always with jeep items, this is not a 100% set-in-stone prerequisite for being an eliminator or pioneer package. I've had two pioneers now, which had dummy lights from the factory. Unless you bought it new yourself, you do not know that it was that way "from the factory." I bought my '88 XJ as a Pioneer specifically because that was the lowest trim level that had full instrumentation. The option list was the same for the MJs and the XJ. I also have two used XJ Pioneers here, one an '86 4-cyl and the other is an '89 6-cyl. Both have gauges but no tach. If you bought a Pioneer with idiot lights, IMHO it's 99.99% certain that a previous owner removed the gauges.

I've know XJ guys wanting REAL clearance to remove the inner wells entirely and make their own -- larger -- tubs to weld in. I don't know if the wheel well shells are structurally part of the unibody, so if I were doing it I'd make them out of decent stock and weld in place. But maybe that's overkill.